Pruning maples flush or leave a stub

[snox]

Looking to prune some branches 5-10mm on my maples that are in development stages and see some cut flush and others leave a stub . is a flush cut more risky regards die back ? Hence why some will leave a little stub to die back ?
Keen to hear what folk do regarding this .

 

[roberthu]

Always leave a sub to allow the collar to form. Then go back and clean up the wound and patch up for further healing.
Cut flash doesn't always result in die back. But the change increases tremendously.
for 10mm think branches, I would stage the cuts and leave some leave a leaves to drive water transportation and cut back again in the fall to avoid sudden shut and cause die back.

 

[snox]

Makes sense and will follow your advice . Thanks .

 

[zita]

i changed to cut flush, actually completely flush, no wound paste, only in summer and then expose the wound to sun.

 

[yenling83]

Generally speaking, with really small cuts you can cut flush or concave, while larger cuts you'll want to leave some length, respecting and allowing the tree to die back to the branch collar, then coming back and re-addressing the cut once the branch has died back.

 

[zita]

in case of removing entire branches you will have strong backbudding out of this little stump rather than on the trunk where you want it to help healing and of course for the tree itself.

 

[snox]

Generally speaking, with really small cuts you can cut flush or concave, while larger cuts you'll want to leave some length, respecting and allowing the tree to die back to the branch collar, then coming back and re-addressing the cut once the branch has died back

Appreciate the info mate . Have gone with what you suggested and left a stub .

 

[Bonsai Nut]

in case of removing entire branches you will have strong backbudding out of this little stump rather than on the trunk where you want it to help healing and of course for the tree itself.

You won't get back-budding on a maple branch where there isn't a node. So just to clarify, I would recommend cutting the branch past the last node, leaving a stump, and sealing the wound. I seal all trunk and primary branch wounds on Japanese maples. I'm not sure it is always required but given how cheap cut paste is - and how expensive Japanese maple stock is - why risk it?