Pseudocydonia, Chinese Quince

[Cadillactaste]

They handle it just fine.

Chinese quince in the ground

This is very much a work in progress, and it will be several years before we see anything close to refined…No surprise endings in this post. If you’re not interested in growing out mate…

nebaribonsai.wordpress.com

Appreciate the sound advice ... much prefer sharing knowledge of one I trust Tham a Google Search.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Getting better. Supposed to have our first hard freeze tomorrow night, which will make these leaves go deep crimson.

 

[Dabbler]

oh - very nice!

 

[Hartinez]

I think what I like most about so many of your trees Brian after also seeing them in person, is just how big they are. This tree is not BIG, but it’s definitely not a small tree. They all have a wonderful mystery of scale without context. So good.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Leafless shot. It needs to be pruned back a little, but it is starting to mellow and show some age.

 

[AlainK]

Magnifique, bravo l'artiste !

 

[ForrestW]

Excellent thread! Thanks for a long share--and I look forward to seeing its future. Mine is just now starting to put out spring growth.

 

[badatusernames]

Getting better. Supposed to have our first hard freeze tomorrow night, which will make these leaves go deep crimson.
View attachment 519068

At what temperature do you bring your quince in to shelter? I've had issues with mine refusing to drop leaves or even change color in some instances, and I now suspect not exposing them to temperatures cold enough may be why.

 

[namnhi]

I have a few growing in the ground that exposed to 19f and still refuse to drop leave. Very little change in color as well. They already started to put out new leave. I don’t think it is detrimental to them for not dropping all the leave. I think they can go much lower in the temp department

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

At what temperature do you bring your quince in to shelter? I've had issues with mine refusing to drop leaves or even change color in some instances, and I now suspect not exposing them to temperatures cold enough may be why.

I’ll bring mine in when the temps get below about 20f. They do wake up at the first warm temps. Mine is very much breaking bud right now, ahead of anything but the persimmons…as usual.

 

[ForrestW]

On my quince, I need to thin the apex some as several branches are getting thick and I want to avoid a swell. Would you cut a 3/8" branch off now as the buds are starting to move, or later in the spring after the first flush?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

On my quince, I need to thin the apex some as several branches are getting thick and I want to avoid a swell. Would you cut a 3/8" branch off now as the buds are starting to move, or later in the spring after the first flush?

Probably now while you can still see it and can seal the cut. I just made some pretty heavy cuts on mine.

 

[badatusernames]

I’ll bring mine in when the temps get below about 20f. They do wake up at the first warm temps. Mine is very much breaking bud right now, ahead of anything but the persimmons…as usual.

Thanks! I think I've been taking mine in too early - I ended up taking the leaves off at one point. It's budding out again now (as are my younger ones), but it never lost its leaves fully to begin with... will let it get more of a cold shock next year.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Repotted today while I still could. The base is starting to spread out nicely and I’m starting to show a bit more of it now. Better pix later, working off iPhone shots for now.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Decent night shot. Probably should have cleaned the pollen and Mancozeb from the pot before the photo.

 

[Nybonsai12]

Mancozeb as preventative? if so whats the spray schedule look like?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Mancozeb as preventative? if so whats the spray schedule look like?

I’m trying to hit it every 2-3 weeks until late June. Maybe it will work.

 

[leatherback]

Another 10 years and it should be a pretty decent specimen.

I disagree.
You did not need 10 years.

 

[badatusernames]

I’m trying to hit it every 2-3 weeks until late June. Maybe it will work.

I'm going hard on mine this year too. My quince really like to get rust, and my ume always seem to get black spot.

Just finished a three week course of Immunox, moving on to three weeks of Bonide Infuse spray, and then finally three weeks of Phyton. This is in addition to infuse granular and Cleary's 3336 granular with a month break between them. If that doesn't work... well, jeeze.

Be nice to not HAVE to defoliate one of these years

Was thinking of putting Mancozeb in there too but I feel like I'm already going full nuclear, and don't like the temporary discoloration.

On the plus side, I think I can chill on the pesticides because I've really never had a problem with infestations.

Just waiting for my trees to start glowing from all these chemicals...