Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Thank You for trying. Look at the new growth; break out the really long shoots and leave the shorter shoots for the time being unless you need to have that branch longer. In July we will deal with the others.
Pugo Mine
- Thread starter sorce
- Start date
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Same pic for this page.
I pulled and halved a couple candles on my sacrifice/tester branch a week or so ago...but only to experiment/witness.
I'm looking to leave that new growth for now...and, health dependant, cut back rather hard in July....
I don't trust my old needles....
So I don't know if I'm comfortable yet cutting back to just old needles as in the video....
So I may just cut a section hard to see how it responds.
Into this 3rd year...
I'll get more comfortable knowing how my older needles health holds up...
So that regular regimen may begin next year.
Right now we're still looking at nothing that will remain...
I have a few interior buds in good places I'm nurturing.
And I am looking to get closer budding on what May be keeper sections.
One thing is for sure....
I'm gonna have to create a 3rd account so I can show Smoke this in about 15 years!
Sorce
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
It is not the needles that encourage growth it is the buds that they protect. This is why you should not pull the needles out but cut them off leaving tiny parts of the fascicles at the base. Every group of needles on a healthy Pine have a dormant bud within the crotch between the needles. These buds can or will become active because of a lot of things, one of them is the lose of the active buds at the ends of the branches. If you are looking for back budding these needles should not be pulled out because those dormant buds can come with the fascicle as it is pulled. This gets to be a complicated issue that I don't have the time to go into.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I think you can finally make out this branching.
I saw roots out the bottom a couple weeks ago.
The new foliage is blue looking.
@GrimLore you see why I understand your needle removing question.
I don't have much left to my last year's growth..
This is why I may just cut back to forks of new foliage.
Or not.
I hope it will respond to my pony packs.
And fish...fish tomorrow!
I got iron bits in it.
Sorce
I saw roots out the bottom a couple weeks ago.
The new foliage is blue looking.
@GrimLore you see why I understand your needle removing question.
I don't have much left to my last year's growth..
This is why I may just cut back to forks of new foliage.
Or not.
I hope it will respond to my pony packs.
And fish...fish tomorrow!
I got iron bits in it.
Sorce
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Very interesting. Let's just see where it leads us before doing anything. In the mean time I will continue to look at the photos and try and determine what we should do with it.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
I still have left the old growth to brown and drop while the candles and plant look ok. The plant will be untouched this year BUT relocated with a few others for protection from heavy rains. It can grow out if it does and maybe all the existing tethers will have done their jobs by then. Seems they will as there are several with little or no tension.
Nature keeping it to wet here has not seemed to kill it but has set me back at least one year, maybe two... I did buy it to learn so I guess it is teaching
Grimmy
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
If you have the tree in a pond basket type planter I don't think over watering is a problem. If you have the tree in a proper bonsai soil too much water may not be so much a problem as not enough, seriously. There seems to be some sort of doctrine/idea floating around out there that the best way to control the growth on a Pine is to keep the tree dry. The important thing to remember about watering is to make sure a tree is not sitting in a puddle or swamp. The application of water is important in aspirating the soil which is important in countering root rot.
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sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Look at the branches; you are starting to get all sorts of back budding.
Paulpash
Masterpiece
@Vance Wood At what point would you say a mugo or scots pine branch is incapable of backbudding? When it is very old / barked up? I know younger branches seem to 'pop' more readily IME. This is an important consideration as to whether to keep or cut a branch and try a different design.
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
I have seen really old branches back bud sometimes because I wanted them to and sometimes they sneak up on me.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Greening!
Sorce
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Didn't realize What was only on the train.
Some befores.
Little a this and that.
Looking for backbuds.
I'm digging that leftward movement there.
But that original upright thing may pan out too.
Either way this branch has the best movement so I cut it back looking for backbuds AND to keep it knuckleless.
Them Mirai videos really make you wanna work!
Sorce
Some befores.
Little a this and that.
Looking for backbuds.
I'm digging that leftward movement there.
But that original upright thing may pan out too.
Either way this branch has the best movement so I cut it back looking for backbuds AND to keep it knuckleless.
Them Mirai videos really make you wanna work!
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I had a bunch of old branch collar circles here.
Kinda just rubbed em off for an easy beginning to a shari....or other bulge reduction.
Tree still healthy.
Sorce
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
I would love to see this tree with the interior of it illuminated. This is what happens when you shoot against a background that is substantially lighter and brighter than the item you are trying to photograph, specifically the light from bright brick wall, overwhelms the camera's sensors leaving the real subject of the photo underexposed. The sensors of your camera will always do this if you don't find a way to either flash the interior of the tree or provide for a darker background. The automatic sensor system will always focus for the brightest source of illumination in a frame. If it did not this the wall would bun out the back ground.
From what I can see the tree looks good.
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sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I labeled the branches with the same color all around.
I plan on cutting down to the fork at the white line.
And the lowest branch to its first fork.
Which would leave me about here...
Needing to crank the top down.
Some others.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Lil work. A hard spring prune looking for interior bare branch backbudding as per the theory.
Sorce
Sorce
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Wow, every time I look at your progress you seem to find it necessary to cut on them more. Mugo Pine is a Pine and it does need some vegetive growth to support the survival of the tree. I could hopefully be wrong but I am afraid you have removed too much upper growth.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I had these cuts in my head a while back, a year or more....with a "if this happens" - "then I will"....
"That" happened, so "I did".
"That" was really just a level of health..
These cuts are quite drastic to fine tune my gauge of health.
Also to test this theory that these severe cuts before candles extend is what causes bare branch back budding. (Mugo train thread)
I guess its worth mentioning that I also already have this tree stack ranked in the future....I don't much fancy the base or the fact that its been 3 years and I still don't have this to a proper "starting point".
If I get buds inside on them bare branches this will reach that proper starting point for me, which may keep it from getting schtack ranked.
It may have something to do with the allure
Of the nursery hunt...
But I KNOW I can find faster starts...
I'm a little odd I guess...in that while I don't mind and completely understand growing something out for any amount of years....
I don't like wasting time on "chance". Waiting for backbudding, etc.
If it takes more than like 2-3 years to get it there......to that "starting point" ....
I lose interest pretty fast, especially when the trees other attributes aren't vibing into what I'm seeing.
It was quite drastic! But I gotta mind to find a better one ....from a guy I know....who might have one at a better "starting point".
Sorce
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