Should I trunk chop this larch?

[one_bonsai]

I'm thinking of basically starting again with this larch by chopping it at the red line and choosing a new leader below. Good idea?

 

[Tieball]

Hmmmm....just my quick thought. If you’re keeping that second trunk on the left in the photo (which I think is a good idea)....I feel like you need to chop a little higher or chop lower on the left side trunk. I think the left side has a long branch close to the top that needs removal. I doesn’t seem in harmony to me. The right trunk is upright while the left is sagging. But I can’t really see what’s going on in that clump of growth at the top of the left side trunk.

Me.....I’d probably chop here....shown in blue. But that’s just my thinking. I’ve never owned or chopped a Larch. It just feels more balanced to me. I like it better when the smaller trunk is less than half the height of the main larger trunk.

 

[one_bonsai]

Me.....I’d probably chop here....shown in blue. But that’s just my thinking. View attachment 222629

Thanks for the reply. I was going to chop higher but my concern is that there's a large section above the red line that has no taper (see below). That's why I was thinking of getting rid of it.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Bend the low left branch up, use the rest of the trunk to run and thicken everything below is. After a few years you will have taper. On the left branch that you pulled up select a runner directly and repeat the process. There still is a long bare section low down. Bend it if possible, the other solution is building a large tree (takes years), or a skinny elegant one.



Or continue as now with the left branch pointing down, this eliminates the visual impact of the long section. Use an escape there as well for taper.

 

[one_bonsai]

Bend the low left branch up, use the rest of the trunk to run and thicken everything below is. After a few years you will have taper. On the left branch that you pulled up select a runner directly and repeat the process.

So the lower left branch that is bent upwards becomes the new leader and the existing trunk above the red line is kept and is used just to thicken the trunk?

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

So the lower left branch that is bent upwards becomes the new leader and the existing trunk above the red line is kept and is used just to thicken the trunk?

it's one of the possibilities. If you want taper and want the trunk to be thicker, letting things grow is the best option.

 

[one_bonsai]

And so the apex at the old trunk (orange circle below) is allowed to grow long to thicken that trunk all the way to the bottom?

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Yes. The trunk thickens approximately (depends on species) 1 cm per 100 cm vertical growth. I think when it reaches 300 cm you will know what to expect. The top waving in the wind will forse the lowest portion of the trunk to thicken so you get additional taper.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Example with Acer palmatum arakawa

Ulmus procera

The new top of the procera (Best to have it ready before you chop)

Keep in mind that when you chop you will have a wound that has to be closed with another runner but smaller. Or with evergreens you can make a shari or Jin.

 

[sorce]

Wicked nice pics @dirk hoorelbeke !

I wouldn't cut that Larch yet.

It's one of a forest to me.

Sorce

 

[AlainK]

I’d probably chop here....shown in blue. But that’s just my thinking. I’ve never owned or chopped a Larch. It just feels more balanced to me.

I second that, plus I would repot it in a much shallower container.

 

[one_bonsai]

I second that, plus I would repot it in a much shallower container.

You don't think the trunk needs thickening?

 

[one_bonsai]

I decided to go with Dirk's option.

 

[Tieball]

C

I decided to go with Dirk's option.

View attachment 222866

Commitment and action. Nicely carried out.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

I didn't explicitly said a time frame to execute the work (my bad). I don't expect problems, but most of the time it is best to perform big bends in late fall or early spring. In summer there is a lot of sap in the branch and heavy bending might separate the different layers. I also see the lowest right branch is removed. That was a good branch (viewed from the photo) and is also included in the drawing. Having a branch there helps explain why there will be taper in the future there.
My plan would be:
Now: I would just wait for the reaction of the tree. The top should take off, some extra growth on the lower growth will occur.
Fall (after growth stops and needles fall): Take off the wire. Rewire with even intervals and around 45°. The wraps around the runner are perfect. Lower down on the main trunk they are too narrow, on the next trunk section they are too wide. The wire should have a snug fit without gaps. I bet you can do better than this. The purpose of rewiring is to add movement. The main stem of the daughter is OK but you can start with the primary branches in fall. When the tree grows the bends will always disappear a bit so always exaggerate the bend. For the continuation of the main trunk i would bend the branch up a bit more and add slight movement so its not straight like now. Try to bend so every branch is on the outside of the curve. The tuft of foliage halfway up the next leader might be the future elongation of the trunk. Use the lowest bud on the right to grow the first branch. You need counterbalance in the design.
Spring: The tree seems to be in "fresh" soil, when have you repotted, how does the base look like, what work do you need to do to make it perfect? Best to leave the tree in pot for 2 years before digging in again.
The most difficult part in bonsai is seeing what's not there yet. You have to envision the thicker trunk, the slight movement, the foliage pads. Look for examples. Starting from raw material like this is one of the hardest things to do and to start with. The tree might direct you to make other decisions than you anticipate. It is easier when you have a finished trunk and have the primary branches. The nice thing of having a mother and a daughter is that you will have the daughter ready much faster than the old lady. You will have trees in different stages in the same tree.

 

[one_bonsai]

The tree seems to be in "fresh" soil, when have you repotted

Yes I repotted after the chop. I'm going to grow it in a an in-ground colander.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Ow wait. You repotted it now? There is a timing for everything. Don't do things randomly. In ground colander is not a bad idea.

 

[one_bonsai]

You repotted it now?

Correct. Want to make the most of the warm weather for it to grow.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

I understand but the warm weather is the period when the roots should have colonized the soil and ready to take moisture to the top of the tree. In my opinion there is no reason to stress a tree in the warm period. You can't work the roots like you should at this moment so there was little advantage to do it. Relax, plan your steps, do them at the right time. You might lose a growing season fast. The timeframe for this tree is 10+ years to have a decent starting point. Every mistake adds 2 years.

 

[one_bonsai]

You can't work the roots like you should at this moment so there was little advantage to do it.

I didn't touch the roots, I just slip potted it into the colander.