Styling recommendations

cody94withrow

Yamadori
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Location
Canton, NC
USDA Zone
7a
any styling help appreciated
 

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All depends on what you want to do with it and how long you want to wait. To me, a prebonsai is dictated by the trunk diameter, have a look where it emerges from the soil, is it pencil thin? straight?

Without trying to be flippant or dismissive the trunk might actually be this sort of diameter:

1721652762626.png
 
All depends on what you want to do with it and how long you want to wait. To me, a prebonsai is dictated by the trunk diameter, have a look where it emerges from the soil, is it pencil thin? straight?

Without trying to be flippant or dismissive the trunk might actually be this sort of diameter:

View attachment 558950
I'd say its about .75"-1" in diameter, I'm happy to wait longer though. I kinda also wondered if cutting back the cascading part would help with anything. I guess even if it's not styling advice, I'll take whatever the consensus is on what i should do next.

I just took a procumbens and put it in a larger nursery pot from a bonsai pot I realized it's be better for it to grow out more and also the soil wasn't working as well as I'd llike to see so basically I'm not worried about time.
 
I've practically given up on waiting for junipers to thicken - they take sooo long! If you want thickening, leave the cascading branch as it is - it's your best shot at reasonably quick trunk thickening.

You can make a nice tree with a 1" diameter trunk but you'll want the foliage as close to the trunk as you can to keep it in proportion. I like to keep the foliage that is located really close to the trunk, remove the intermediate foliage (but not the branches themselves) that radiates off long branches and keep foliage at those branch tips. This way branches still extend and fatten but there is still enough light to keep the trunk foliage compact and happy. It's not a pretty method having long bare branches everywhere but it works! Long branches can then be jinned at a later date once their job of thickening has been achieved.
 
I've practically given up on waiting for junipers to thicken - they take sooo long! If you want thickening, leave the cascading branch as it is - it's your best shot at reasonably quick trunk thickening.

You can make a nice tree with a 1" diameter trunk but you'll want the foliage as close to the trunk as you can to keep it in proportion. I like to keep the foliage that is located really close to the trunk, remove the intermediate foliage (but not the branches themselves) that radiates off long branches and keep foliage at those branch tips. This way branches still extend and fatten but there is still enough light to keep the trunk foliage compact and happy. It's not a pretty method having long bare branches everywhere but it works! Long branches can then be jinned at a later date once their job of thickening has been achieved.
I'll definitely look into that. I do want the trunk to thicken some and that's why I'm not going to take it out of the larger nursery pot for a while. For now I've wired some of the shorter branches but not for styling only to keep them from drooping in the dirt.

maybe I should've, instead, made a post for guidance on what I should be pruning then... oops

thank you for the input
 
Looks like a natural cascade, albeit a tad prickly!

Would look up images of cascades, especially junipers, and choose a model based upon the best of the things seen and get to work styling the tree this fall.

As far as pruning goes, one can prune back to any sub branchlets along the tree to reduce the foliage mass. Won’t go hog wild though, as junipers carry most of their energy in their foliage. Just enough to push back a little across the lanky areas and wait to view the response to understand the tree better.

One could do this now or wait. However would reduce the other cascade if itwill not be part of the design… but that would wait until the rough design is selected.

Good luck! Interested to see future progress.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Looks like a natural cascade, albeit a tad prickly!

Would look up images of cascades, especially junipers, and choose a model based upon the best of the things seen and get to work styling the tree this fall.

As far as pruning goes, one can prune back to any sub branchlets along the tree to reduce the foliage mass. Won’t go hog wild though, as junipers carry most of their energy in their foliage. Just enough to push back a little across the lanky areas and wait to view the response to understand the tree better.

One could do this now or wait. However would reduce the other cascade if itwill not be part of the design… but that would wait until the rough design is selected.

Good luck! Interested to see future progress.

Cheers
DSD sends
Definitely prickly, but not as prickly as the procumbens nana. It's got good potential for a nice cascade, the cascading portion is seriously long though and it's still pushing new growth. I'm planning on training some of the branches and pruning others. I did an initial prune when I got it to get a better view of the trunk and then let it settle in on my porch for a while but I'm always itching to mess with it in some way.

Peter Chan always says not to get in a rush with things especially as a beginner, but it's tough when watching him just cut away at stuff and end up with something gorgeous.

Thank you I plan to keep this thread updated with pics even if it's just new growth or something, someone may find it helpful.
 
Well done. Should be no problem to wire the tree mid fall. It’s the normal time to wire junipers.

All professionals seem to do many operations at once during demonstrations, yet they do know how far to go with a tree.

When we do major work as hobbyists the rule is one major operation per year. Wiring the trunk this fall will allow for work in spring.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Well done. Should be no problem to wire the tree mid fall. It’s the normal time to wire junipers.

All professionals seem to do many operations at once during demonstrations, yet they do know how far to go with a tree.

When we do major work as hobbyists the rule is one major operation per year. Wiring the trunk this fall will allow for work in spring.

Cheers
DSD sends
To be clear; you're suggesting a wiring this fall but maybe no pruning or small amounts?
 
To do a proper job of wiring you’ll have to clear out a lot of excess foliage along branches and crotches etc. there’s plenty of resources both on here and google/youtube on how to thin out and wire junipers - much better than I can describe! You could start thinning out now but wiring should wait until fall as if done in summer the bark can slip.
 
To do a proper job of wiring you’ll have to clear out a lot of excess foliage along branches and crotches etc. there’s plenty of resources both on here and google/youtube on how to thin out and wire junipers - much better than I can describe! You could start thinning out now but wiring should wait until fall as if done in summer the bark can slip.
gotcha,
I'll start slow. Thanks for all your help.
 
To be clear; you're suggesting a wiring this fall but maybe no pruning or small amounts?

Would wire the primary structure only. Focus on the tail and anchor through the upper portion. Then either the rest.

Shouldn’t need to prune for this much. Plan your bends so there is a branch at the apex of each bend …

Remember to bend both side to side and up and down

Please do not try to make a bend at every branch, skip 1-4 as needed to make to final layout good. Requires planning.

Would clip and little in a clip and grow fashion to redirect growth as needed to highlight the primary wiring and sort out the upper portion of the tree.

The wiring guides I recommend, in order.

Craftsy Wiring Essentials

Bonsai Mirai Structural Wiring

Bonsai Mirai Detail Wiring

Cheers
DSD sends
 
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