summer air layering practice?

[amatbrewer]

I am going to preface this with the statement that I know this is not the best time to do this. However I want to know if A) it is feasible, and B) if doing so is likely to result in my learning enough to make it worth the effort.

I just acquired a Shishigashara (I love them and have wanted one for years) specifically to air layer a few sections off next spring. However while I have I have read a bit about it including the Bonsainut thread on air layering, and watched some videos, I have never performed air layering myself. So I was thinking of getting some practice by air layering a few branches of the red maples I have in my yard before I attempt it on the Shishigashara. I really, really don’t want to wait another year or more before getting to work on the Shishigashara if I can avoid it, so I would love to get some air layering experience this year if I can.

Were I to attempt to air layer the red maples now (Yakima is like “high desert” with hot days and cool to cold nights, and soon to be in the 90’s F or higher), is there reasonable chance it might work? And more importantly, would doing it be likely to provide me with some useful knowledge/experience, or would it be just a waste of time/materials?

If it helps I have been doing Bonsai since the late 80’s (I was a member of the San Diego Bonsai club, where I learned from some very talented and experienced people) but due to a number of events I had to get out of the hobby. I am only now getting back into it and trying to rebuild my collection. So I am not a novice, but I am out of practice and much of my knowledge/experience is probably very outdated.

 

[River's Edge]

I am going to preface this with the statement that I know this is not the best time to do this. However I want to know if A) it is feasible, and B) if doing so is likely to result in my learning enough to make it worth the effort.

I just acquired a Shishigashara (I love them and have wanted one for years) specifically to air layer a few sections off next spring. However while I have I have read a bit about it including the Bonsainut thread on air layering, and watched some videos, I have never performed air layering myself. So I was thinking of getting some practice by air layering a few branches of the red maples I have in my yard before I attempt it on the Shishigashara. I really, really don’t want to wait another year or more before getting to work on the Shishigashara if I can avoid it, so I would love to get some air layering experience this year if I can.

Were I to attempt to air layer the red maples now (Yakima is like “high desert” with hot days and cool to cold nights, and soon to be in the 90’s F or higher), is there reasonable chance it might work? And more importantly, would doing it be likely to provide me with some useful knowledge/experience, or would it be just a waste of time/materials?

If it helps I have been doing Bonsai since the late 80’s (I was a member of the San Diego Bonsai club, where I learned from some very talented and experienced people) but due to a number of events I had to get out of the hobby. I am only now getting back into it and trying to rebuild my collection. So I am not a novice, but I am out of practice and much of my knowledge/experience is probably very outdated.

As you stated the timing is not ideal. You will only know if you try! If you do try then be sure to keep the tree well watered, the airlayer protected from extreme heat and sun.
I would think that one aspect would be the extra care and protection you can offer the airlayer if separated this fall to extend the root growing season.

 

[amatbrewer]

As you stated the timing is not ideal. You will only know if you try! If you do try then be sure to keep the tree well watered, the airlayer protected from extreme heat and sun.
I would think that one aspect would be the extra care and protection you can offer the airlayer if separated this fall to extend the root growing season.

Thanks for the quick response and suggestions. Any successful layers could go into the small greenhouse (with an automated heat/water system) that I use to winter my less cold hardy plants. But since I am only doing this for air layering practice, saving the results (unless they happen to be especially nice) is not a priority. In my yard, red maples grow like weeds and I am constantly ripping out seedlings from the most unlikely places. If you ever need red maple seedlings, come take all you want. Oddly enough I don't have a single red maple bonsai...go figure.

 

[Saddler]

I have 40-50 airlayers under my belt. I have layered standard green A. Palmatum as late as July 25 with success. The three things that have resulted in failed layers for me: not enough foliage above the layer/ a tree with weak health (I only realized this after seeing the growth that tree has made this year with a healthy layer already putting out new growth on its own roots) / improper after care, almost always thinking it is ready for full sun when it is not.

I out of the roughly four dozen layers, I have about a ten that failed. Two on the unhealthy tree, five that didn’t have enough foliage (some had leaves I could count on one hand (classic newb) and the rest were rushed the next season. But for the most part I have had great success. It’s not hard.

The only thing I wish I had done different is not taking crappy cuttings. Now I trim the mother tree into the basic structure and let the foliage grow. It will cut your time down significantly. The already established mother plant will grow a lot faster then the airlayer for a couple of years in my experience. Use that to get a nice trunk. Taking the airlayer slows down the mother tree as well, just like hard pruning. I know it’s hard to do, I occassionlly ignore my better judgement. It helps if I think of the potential airlayer as a bonsai on a bonsai.

 

[Shima]

Try doing the medium mixed with chopped sphagnum in a plastic pot covered with a layer of moss and water every day method. I get faster results this way and roots grow straight out rather than all tangled up in moss. Better beginning for bonsai.

 

[John in Toledo]

Try doing the medium mixed with chopped sphagnum in a plastic pot covered with a layer of moss and water every day method. I get faster results this way and roots grow straight out rather than all tangled up in moss. Better beginning for bonsai.

That's a very useful tid-bit. I'm glad I read it.

 

[cbroad]

I've always waited until at least Father's Day to start my air layers, and have done some as late as the end of July. I have close to ten planned for this season, but haven't had a chance to yet but I'm definitely still going to do them.

I always thought the optimum time is for early summer. I think what really matters is how long the severed layers have to get ready before the frosts start.

 

[Saddler]

Try doing the medium mixed with chopped sphagnum in a plastic pot covered with a layer of moss and water every day method. I get faster results this way and roots grow straight out rather than all tangled up in moss. Better beginning for bonsai.

Yea, I only use the bagged moss for airlayers if I can only check on them infrequently. I have moved to just my regular bonsai soil in plastic pots.

I’ll cut the walls off the airlayer pot when I put it into a bigger pot leaving the bottom on to encourage the roots to grow horizontal from the get go. You can see how low I put the upper cut into my pot. I covered the rest of the cut under the pot with a plastic bag so it doesn’t dry out (I don’t know if this is necessary but it seems like it can’t hurt).

Tangled moss roots are a PITA.

 

[BrianBay9]

Some have advised that air layers work best when started as buds are pushing in the spring. Others say wait until leaves are hardened off. Others say beginning of summer is best. I've tried all of these and all work. My screw ups?

1. Insufficient ring barked space, allowing bridging and no roots.
2. Drying out - vacations can be problematic
3. Impatience - removing layers at first sign of roots. Some will make it, some won't.
4. Starting so late that newly separated trees aren't established before the first hard freeze.

 

[amatbrewer]

I have layered standard green A. Palmatum as late as July 25 with success.

I appreciate your response, and kind of hate you for it...[joke]. Saying that you have had success that late tempts me to try it on the Shishigashara, and I can resist anything except temptation. I will have to just try some of the red maples and try to pretend the Shishigashara does not exist so I am not tempted.

 

[Saddler]

1. Insufficient ring barked space, allowing bridging and no roots.
Never had it happen, but I cut 1.5 times the width of the branch

2. Drying out - vacations can be problematic
Never had it happen with moss. I just watered the bag and sealed the hole with tape. I used white plastic bags. I’ll let you know how my black pot method works if I ever go on another vacation lol (my heart tightens just thinking about it)

3. Impatience - removing layers at first sign of roots. Some will make it, some won't.
I have had this happen. File to after care.

4. Starting so late that newly separated trees aren't established before the first hard freeze.
I’ve some how managed to leave the layers on and it dropped to -10° C and I had success with prunus and Acer the next summer. Cut layers I put against the house and loosely cover with poly in the shade so they don’t cook when (not if) I forget about them.

 

[Saddler]

I appreciate your response, and kind of hate you for it...[joke]. Saying that you have had success that late tempts me to try it on the Shishigashara, and I can resist anything except temptation. I will have to just try some of the red maples and try to pretend the Shishigashara does not exist so I am not tempted.

For me, it comes down to how much foliage you have above the layer, and, and this is a big AND, how well the variety air layers.

 

[AZbonsai]

For me, it comes down to how much foliage you have above the layer, and, and this is a big AND, how well the variety air layers.

In your experience the more foliage the better? What if there are not enough roots to support the foliage?

 

[River's Edge]

In your experience the more foliage the better? What if there are not enough roots to support the foliage?

The foliage would not be there if there were not enough roots on the tree to support it. And the foliage carries out photosynthesis and produces the food for the new roots on the air layer. The more foliage the more food for the new roots forming. So the faster the roots can form and the stronger they become. So the only issue is if the air layer is taken off before there are enough roots. Ie: too soon. Is that what you mean?

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks for the quick response and suggestions. Any successful layers could go into the small greenhouse (with an automated heat/water system) that I use to winter my less cold hardy plants. But since I am only doing this for air layering practice, saving the results (unless they happen to be especially nice) is not a priority. In my yard, red maples grow like weeds and I am constantly ripping out seedlings from the most unlikely places. If you ever need red maple seedlings, come take all you want. Oddly enough I don't have a single red maple bonsai...go figure.

When you receive responses from members in different growing conditions try to put that in perspective. It is always best to consult with experienced Bonsai people in your own area as well. For example i am in zone 8b quite different from zone 6 in many ways. Some of my friends across the water on the "dark side" experience very different seasons even though they are a short distance away. Elevation, location exposure etc. It affects the timing of many Bonsai practices.

 

[AZbonsai]

Is that what you mean?

I have two air layers that I am about to cut away from the main tree. I was thinking about reducing the size of the foliage above the layer. My thinking being that the roots would be better able to supply the tree with the water it needed. Kind of like reducing the foliage after a repot and root job. Both air layer roots and foliage on my tree are healthy.

 

[KiwiPlantGuy]

I appreciate your response, and kind of hate you for it...[joke]. Saying that you have had success that late tempts me to try it on the Shishigashara, and I can resist anything except temptation. I will have to just try some of the red maples and try to pretend the Shishigashara does not exist so I am not tempted.

Hi Amatbrewer,
If I might step in here and add my thoughts. So firstly I agree with all the above, and separation too early for me too has been an issue.
For your variety, I have heard that Shishigashira is realatively easy to root, and as the internodes are short I think this helps a lot too. If the caliper of your air-layer is less than 1/2 inch say, then you will probably find it difficult to air-layer it correctly, eg. Too much heartwood removed which can lead too weakened branch etc.
Also most of us would prefer an air-layer because you get a faster girth tree, but as your variety roots easily(ish) from cutting also, it might be good practice too.
Charles

Edit- red leaf maples are more difficult to root, and dissectums even more so. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

 

[Maros]

So according to your experience, what is the good time for separation from the mother tree, in moderate climate? Pictures of my two layers on my maple from the weekend.

 

[leatherback]

o according to your experience, what is the good time for separation from the mother tree, in moderate climate?

I would have separated this, at the moment I see the first root tip pushing the plastic. The aftercare is what makes it then. It has rooted. So protect it for a bit so the roots can grow out. This layer is well and beyond the doubt-to-separate-stage in my view.

 

[Paulpash]

I've done loads of maple layers. Usually the main cause of failure is separating too early. I wait til the roots pack the moss and start to circle. It's been very hot recently, so the more roots the better. On separation, guy wire the tree from 4 corners securely to stop the tree rocking and damaging the delicate roots. Carefully pour in your bonsai substrate round the ball of moss - don't dislodge or tamper with this until a whole season at least has passed. Good luck mate.

Edit: for me I usually have a packed rootball by mid September but don't use the calendar as a guide - use observation of how much root mass you've got.