Tilia Cordata (2006-2017-...)

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Besides an ulmus parvifolia this was my first purchase in my bonsai journey. Being a beginner it wasn't clear for me that a tree like that in a small size was somewhat of a challenge.
2006

Of course i had a good eye for the perfect rootbase at that time...

2008: Having read that airlayering was possible but difficult with this species... this was my first airlayer...

2010: First branch selection.

2011: Building ramification, not a great succes.

2011 Experimenting with defoliation.
End of may

July

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

The defoliation resulted in more ramification.
2012

2013, I repotted it in a small pot. Aiming to reduce vigor and internode length, so it was close to shohin size.

2014

2015

In 2016 we made the decision shohin would be out of reach. So we upgraded the pot and aimed for the next size, more appropriate for the leaf size.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

2017 spring i applied guide wires to bring branches more horizontal. The tree is becoming full. In spring the new growth is pinched back to 1, 2 or 3 nodes. This takes a week or two to get even growth. After that the leaf of the interior internode is removed. This stimulates that bud to swell. When they are almost ready to pop, i go in and remove the leaves.
2017 may 16th, the growth is hardened and the buds are ready to pop.

cutback. A few interior shoots retain their leaves. Note the sacrifice branch on top is removed.

2017 June 3th. The tree is ready again to defoliate. Leaf factory.

Naked, this time i did not wait until the buds were ready to burst, so it will take longer to produce leafs, hoping to have reduced strength somewhat. Removed the interior leaf of the mostly 2 internodes left. Reduced the size of the outer leaf.

The waiting game begins.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I'm not sure where the end vision for this tree is (?) Where are you headed?

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

I don't know. I would like it more like your avatar. A more tilia styled tree. So the top will get higher and rounder. The problem is this is a small sized tree and it does react strange to wiring. I will try to get it as full as possible with a developed top. The problem is, the fuller and larger the canopy gets, the less powerful the trunk becomes. My guess is that in some distant future i will cut everything back to proportion. I like the way it looks in spring with the reddish buds. The tree has a powerful 360° rootbase, good taper and when seen naked most people don't guess what species it is...i like that.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Took a while to wire this little one.

 

[MACH5]

Nice development Dirk. Just saw this thread. Look forward to seeing this one and where it lands. I have been searching for inspiration and info on this species and saw this one and @BobbyLane. This one is completely new to me and looking forward to working with mine. I take that they do ok with wire?

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

No, they don't like wire. Expect some branches to die back. You get horizontal cracks fast in the branches. That's the reason we attempted to build this one initially without wire (after the first styling). This tree is actually to small for a linden tree. Hard to get everything in scale. For weakening i tried different things. First early pinching over the first weeks of growth after that you wait until the 2 leaves you left are hardened. Then full defoliate except for some weak growth. Pinch again, wait until hardened, remove inner leaves and cut outer leaves in half (triangles). After that you get another weak reaction that i leave alone.
After 2 years of doing this, the tree slowed down, so i skipped the pinching and waited until hardening and did the full an partial leaf removal. Last year the tree was repotted in the smallest pot we could put it in (nebari is until the edge of the pot and bend down a bit). I did only one leaf removal this year. Once you are in this stage they don't backbud, but you can force a branch at every leave so you can build a fine ramification. And yes i do like the red buds in spring... I recommend bigger trees however. I'm just an idiot wanting to do what only fools do and that is building a small one.

 

[BobbyLane]

I don't know. I would like it more like your avatar. A more tilia styled tree. So the top will get higher and rounder. The problem is this is a small sized tree and it does react strange to wiring. I will try to get it as full as possible with a developed top. The problem is, the fuller and larger the canopy gets, the less powerful the trunk becomes. My guess is that in some distant future i will cut everything back to proportion. I like the way it looks in spring with the reddish buds. The tree has a powerful 360° rootbase, good taper and when seen naked most people don't guess what species it is...i like that.

I find them a joy to wire, Dirk...very pliable and flexible, soft and bendy branches, thicker branches as well have a rubbery feeling.
Nice little tree mate

 

[MACH5]

No, they don't like wire. Expect some branches to die back. You get horizontal cracks fast in the branches. That's the reason we attempted to build this one initially without wire (after the first styling). This tree is actually to small for a linden tree. Hard to get everything in scale. For weakening i tried different things. First early pinching over the first weeks of growth after that you wait until the 2 leaves you left are hardened. Then full defoliate except for some weak growth. Pinch again, wait until hardened, remove inner leaves and cut outer leaves in half (triangles). After that you get another weak reaction that i leave alone.
After 2 years of doing this, the tree slowed down, so i skipped the pinching and waited until hardening and did the full an partial leaf removal. Last year the tree was repotted in the smallest pot we could put it in (nebari is until the edge of the pot and bend down a bit). I did only one leaf removal this year. Once you are in this stage they don't backbud, but you can force a branch at every leave so you can build a fine ramification. And yes i do like the red buds in spring... I recommend bigger trees however. I'm just an idiot wanting to do what only fools do and that is building a small one.

Thanks Dirk. This is all great and very helpful info!

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

@BobbyLane I have the same experience. Big branches are flexible and after bending there is no problem. Smaller branches (2 year old approximately) are so flexible that if you bend them a lot like we tend to do sometimes they bend without problem but after winter or even in summer they shed the branches that are 'overbend'. Tilia is one of the species I guide in the approximately right location while wiring and don't put intentional 'wiggle' in the branches. Instead of wiring, bend, adjust, put some curves in,... Oaks tend to do the same thing when they are growing slow. I follow the instructions of my teacher and try to minimize wiring with these species.