Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Branches that appear natural is the aim. It generally takes a few years for new branches to thicken enough to match the lower trunk. Maybe even longer when the lower section is thicker.
The trick is to allow enough growth without creating more huge cuts. Usually each successive growth and the subsequent chops will be a bit less but I suspect you will still be looking at a 5-10 year program of grow and chop.
Every time I see growers talking about massive growth to get bulk fast and a massive chop as if that's the end I cringe knowing that's just the beginning rather than the end of the development phase.
It can take 2 years to grow initial new sections to match the lower trunk before the next chop. Next section could be just 1 year. At some stage, when new regrowth matches the section below in less than a year you will cut mid season and so on. It is not possible to dictate a calendar plan as each tree is a different size, grows at different rates, etc, etc. Make choices by observing when the new section gets close to complementing the previous growth in size.
Check lower sections of the new shoots for internode length for information and reference this year. This current initial section regrowth should not matter as the secondary branches you are develop here will be slightly further apart so probably no need to worry about long internodes at this early stage. Just let it grow this summer. At some stage when developing upper and outer canopy, internode length will become important as you will need branches closer and closer together. That's when checking and probably pruning initial spring shoots comes into play but I suspect that's a few years off for you yet.
Probably also worth checking whether you have any places where several branches are developing close together. Clusters of branches can cause local swelling. At this stage it will probably take time to be a problem but worth getting in the habit of checking. In later development stages remove clusters rigorously before swelling causes problems where upper and outer twigs need to be finer and finer.
The trick is to allow enough growth without creating more huge cuts. Usually each successive growth and the subsequent chops will be a bit less but I suspect you will still be looking at a 5-10 year program of grow and chop.
Every time I see growers talking about massive growth to get bulk fast and a massive chop as if that's the end I cringe knowing that's just the beginning rather than the end of the development phase.
It can take 2 years to grow initial new sections to match the lower trunk before the next chop. Next section could be just 1 year. At some stage, when new regrowth matches the section below in less than a year you will cut mid season and so on. It is not possible to dictate a calendar plan as each tree is a different size, grows at different rates, etc, etc. Make choices by observing when the new section gets close to complementing the previous growth in size.
Check lower sections of the new shoots for internode length for information and reference this year. This current initial section regrowth should not matter as the secondary branches you are develop here will be slightly further apart so probably no need to worry about long internodes at this early stage. Just let it grow this summer. At some stage when developing upper and outer canopy, internode length will become important as you will need branches closer and closer together. That's when checking and probably pruning initial spring shoots comes into play but I suspect that's a few years off for you yet.
Probably also worth checking whether you have any places where several branches are developing close together. Clusters of branches can cause local swelling. At this stage it will probably take time to be a problem but worth getting in the habit of checking. In later development stages remove clusters rigorously before swelling causes problems where upper and outer twigs need to be finer and finer.
