Trying To Make A Broom

[Adair M]

Hi Adair M,
I have a couple of questions for you with one simple and the other a bit more not so simple. I think I might be safe from the “it depends” lol.

1. With Zelkova serrata, I think that these don’t sprout from the chop, so is this correct? And how might this work from an elegant broom perspective?

2. When building a broom style bonsai, why would I bother putting “wiggles” in the branch design? rather than pruning shifts ( left/right) for movement. It begs the question, movement or not?

Hope this is not to confusing to answer?
Charles

Yes, new shoots will pop right at the chop. Probably not from below. Maybe a few directly off the lower trunk, but most will be right at the chop.

With brooms, you can put in a little, subtle wiggle in the branches, but not a lot. You don’t want perfectly straight branches, and you don’t want wildly wiggly branches. Just enough curve so that they don’t look ruler straight, but still look “almost” straight. Google “broom bonsai”, click on images, and you can see many examples. One thing to note is the branches should have taper. Which means as they are getting built, they get cutback, and new leaders have to be wired to continue the “straight line” of the branch. That joint is where a lot of the wiggle comes from. Here’s a picture of one of my favorite brooms:



That lowest branch on the right was grafted on!

 

[John P.]

I don't know why it did, it actually sprouted a few from the sides first ... I did this same procedure to a smaller elm and it has not sprouted from the ring, only on the sides, so far.

Glad I just found this thread!

I chopped my most vigorous seed-stratified-and-grown-by-me zelkova in mid-to-late February:





Over the ensuing months, all it did was shoot out the sides, randomly. I rubbed them off immediately. Nothing grew from the top cut itself, which actually dried out pretty bad with the cambium separating from the sapwood.

About a month and a half ago I made the chop a little lower (tree is still alive), cleaned up the cut well, applied a sealant to only the sapwood and heartwood, and (following advice I saw online) wrapped clear plastic around the trunk (held by a zip tie), and placed cotton on the cut. I’ve kept the cut moist with the damp cotton. Here it is:


Still nothing. No sprouts anywhere—trunk or cut.

Obviously will see if a second wave of growth occurs that will result in budding at the cut, but would be glad to hear any advice on what I might be doing wrong.

Oh, and the tinfoil isn’t to try to keep aliens from communicating with the tree. I figured that shielding the trunk from light might result in directing buds at the cut.

 

[MrWunderful]

Glad I just found this thread!

I chopped my most vigorous seed-stratified-and-grown-by-me zelkova in mid-to-late February:
View attachment 202315
View attachment 202317
View attachment 202316
View attachment 202318

Over the ensuing months, all it did was shoot out the sides, randomly. I rubbed them off immediately. Nothing grew from the top cut itself, which actually dried out pretty bad with the cambium separating from the sapwood.

About a month and a half ago I made the chop a little lower (tree is still alive), cleaned up the cut well, applied a sealant to only the sapwood and heartwood, and (following advice I saw online) wrapped clear plastic around the trunk (held by a zip tie), and placed cotton on the cut. I’ve kept the cut moist with the damp cotton. Here it is:
View attachment 202319

Still nothing. No sprouts anywhere—trunk or cut.

Obviously will see if a second wave of growth occurs that will result in budding at the cut, but would be glad to hear any advice on what I might be doing wrong.

Oh, and the tinfoil isn’t to try to keep aliens from communicating with the tree. I figured that shielding the trunk from light might result in directing buds at the cut.

I would try letting it sprout without messing with the top cut. No clamps or cotton or anything.

Once some buds set and start to elongate, then worry about the center drilling and clamps.

 

[cmeg1]

Glad I just found this thread!

I chopped my most vigorous seed-stratified-and-grown-by-me zelkova in mid-to-late February:
View attachment 202315
View attachment 202317
View attachment 202316
View attachment 202318

Over the ensuing months, all it did was shoot out the sides, randomly. I rubbed them off immediately. Nothing grew from the top cut itself, which actually dried out pretty bad with the cambium separating from the sapwood.

About a month and a half ago I made the chop a little lower (tree is still alive), cleaned up the cut well, applied a sealant to only the sapwood and heartwood, and (following advice I saw online) wrapped clear plastic around the trunk (held by a zip tie), and placed cotton on the cut. I’ve kept the cut moist with the damp cotton. Here it is:
View attachment 202319

Still nothing. No sprouts anywhere—trunk or cut.

Obviously will see if a second wave of growth occurs that will result in budding at the cut, but would be glad to hear any advice on what I might be doing wrong.

Oh, and the tinfoil isn’t to try to keep aliens from communicating with the tree. I figured that shielding the trunk from light might result in directing buds at the cut.

Nice! Was that a ground layer you did for them roots?
Nice flare too.

 

[John P.]

Nice! Was that a ground layer you did for them roots?
Nice flare too.

Thanks, yes, I made a ground layer in 100% pumice, which always seems to get leaves and other organics in there eventually. I don’t recall if I tourniquetted it. That’s a year’s root growth in that bulb pan.

 

[cmeg1]

Thanks, yes, I made a ground layer in 100% pumice, which always seems to get leaves and other organics in there eventually. I don’t recall if I tourniquetted it. That’s a year’s root growth in that bulb pan.

How old was the wip when you layered.
I always had best results when they’re not older than a year.

 

[John P.]

How old was the wip when you layered.
I always had best results when they’re not older than a year.

About 4 years old, maybe a bit more. I took a decent-sized ring of bark/cambium off, and applied a fair amount of rooting gel.

 

[Dan92119]

@Mellow Mullet At what height did you make your cut and how tall do expect the tree will be when finished?

Thanks

 

[Mellow Mullet]

@Mellow Mullet At what height did you make your cut and how tall do expect the tree will be when finished?

Thanks

I don't remember the exact height, but for size reference, it is planted in a Dollar Tree oil drain pan. When it is finished, I think it will be about twice as tall.

 

[John P.]

I would try letting it sprout without messing with the top cut. No clamps or cotton or anything.

Once some buds set and start to elongate, then worry about the center drilling and clamps.

Finally! Wish there were more than one, but at least this will get the tree’s flow going. Maybe more soon ... or next year.

 

[MrWunderful]

Finally! Wish there were more than one, but at least this will get the tree’s flow going. Maybe more soon ... or next year.

Nice! Let it get nice and healthy for a few years, hopefully some more sprouts will start and you can make that shoot the “main” part of the broom.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Finally! Wish there were more than one, but at least this will get the tree’s flow going. Maybe more soon ... or next year.

I had another that I chopped and it did the same thing as yours, only, it made two. I am gonna chop again this spring and see what it will do.

 

[John P.]

I had another that I chopped and it did the same thing as yours, only, it made two. I am gonna chop again this spring and see what it will do.

Good idea.

I’m wondering if mine did this because I removed roots and replanted in the spring, not leaving enough energy for more buds to break.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Good idea.

I’m wondering if mine did this because I removed roots and replanted in the spring, not leaving enough energy for more buds to break.

I don't know, this is my first go at this.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

I would say generally if you are hoping for tons of buds at the chop, you should have at least a full years of roots to provide energy for them. I know people say that with elms, you can do root work and chops in the same year, but generally you don't want tons of branches like you do with a broom. If it were mine, I would see where it is at in the next year or two and chop again when it is showing lots of vigor (without the simultaneous root work this time).

 

[Adair M]

Hi Adair M,
I have a question for you regarding this broom growing technique and I am hoping your answer won’t be “IT DEPENDS” lol.
When applying hose clamp or plastic tape ( insulation tape work?), I am wondering at what stage of the new growth you can remove the clamp??
One full season? Or sooner mid season etc? Yes, it depends on growth rate from an individuals climate, but some advice would be useful.
I guess with some experience I will find out myself, but if your answers saves me and/or others the effort, it’s worth while for everyone.
Thank you for your in depth answers,
Charles

It’s like wiring. It’s not a “do it once and you’re done” kind of job.

Wrap it. Let the shoots grow. Take the wrap off. Inspect progress. Make adjustments. Decide if further wrapping is warranted. If it is, wrap again. If not, don’t re-wrap.

In other words, “it depends”!

 

[barrosinc]

this year I am airlayering an elm I have at home, like 5cm (2 inch) thick to make a 30-35cm (12-14 inch) tree...
I think I will be using that same hose clamp.

Seems like you could go shorten the roots a bit more I don't think it will even notice.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Here is where this one is now:

 

[j evans]

John - I assume this is tree from your backyard? How long has it been from you initial cut? What is going to determine when you trim those shoots? When you trim them won't that encourage more buds at the chop?

 

[John P.]

Here is where this one is now:

View attachment 208158

View attachment 208159

View attachment 208160

View attachment 208161

Looking great!