Understanding Pines - Japanese Black Pines (specifically)

[Mithrandir]

Hi Everyone,

What a month makes in early spring! The pine has well and truly come to life! the candles are extending and loosening up -- never mind the new buds that are popping up all over place! I've been keeping an eye on the wiring however in the past week or so it must have started thickening up a little as it has dug in slightly, so i've taken it off for now. I'll be setting a shorter check up window next time. I had thought 4 weeks would have worked like my juniper

Thinking more on the taper issue, now that i've seen 1st hand how these can back-bud and that there have been quite a few opportune buds push out, i'm considering making a chop at that first whorl. I will keep one branch as a sacrifice, and use that new bud as the to-be leader.

One question, if i may, would you recommend keeping the main trunk, or as it is already quite thick, use retain another branch as a sacrifice?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

One question, if i may, would you recommend keeping the main trunk, or as it is already quite thick, use retain another branch as a sacrifice?

I guess “thick” is relative, but this still a very young and small plant. What is your vision for the finished tree? Height? General trunk line?

What I see is active buds low on the trunk which need to be kept strong and in the sun, for use later; and a trunk with no taper or interesting movement. This can be resolved by not chopping where you indicated, and instead letting the whole thing grow for a few more years. Then, work with a couple branches in the whorl just below the text box in your image. However, in 3 years, this should look like an entirely different tree, and offer even more options.

 

[River's Edge]

I guess “thick” is relative, but this still a very young and small plant. What is your vision for the finished tree? Height? General trunk line?

What I see is active buds low on the trunk which need to be kept strong and in the sun, for use later; and a trunk with no taper or interesting movement. This can be resolved by not chopping where you indicated, and instead letting the whole thing grow for a few more years. Then, work with a couple branches in the whorl just below the text box in your image. However, in 3 years, this should look like an entirely different tree, and offer even more options.

I agree with the sentiments expressed above. Some additional points. If superior taper is desired then it is better to switch sacrifice leaders to the side and back of the likely chosen front based on lower trunk movements and the Nebari development. Also leave more than one branch at the whorl chosen for reducing the sacrifice leader. use one for the new sacrifice leader. Use one for the first branch and keep another smaller one for the new apex. Then when it grows out in a few years repeat the process.
However, i would caution you to spend time ensuring proper nebari at this stage rather than rushing the trunk process!
Some questions that deserve answers first.
Desired trunk thickness, style leaning towards, what size of scar from sacrifice branches and leaders do i wish to heal for the finished product.
I suggest the following to students.
Trunk thickness of 3 inches at base overall is a nice moderate size.
Cut sacrifice leaders or sacrifice branches around 1 inch thick and change. This is a size of cut that is easier to heal and the finished product will be cleaner. Also cut the sacrifice leaders and sacrifice branches in stages, leave a stub, go back a month or two later to clean and prepare for healing.
Of course everyone has their own preferred approaches and this is just some suggestions.
Based on the picture above the only step i would take this growing season would be to reduce one or two of the largest branches in the bigger whorl you have marked. Then i would let the tree grow for another season.