Worried about this Kashima maple

[BunjaeKorea]

Had this in one of my trees showed a pic to the local shop and the guys first reaction was to say burn it! Disinfect all your tools too.....spreads like a b......or so I am told. Dont go putting the dirt in your garden either....

 

[CamdenJim]

I lost every maple two years ago (except for two in the ground), and they all looked like these photos before they departed this life. I never found the source of the infection, but I'm super vigilant now.
@GrimLore -- thanks for the product recommendations. Are they useful proactively, to prevent such happening again?

 

[GrimLore]

thanks for the product recommendations. Are they useful proactively, to prevent such happening again?

Since we reconstructed the landscape the field rep does not think it is needed and the Agri Center agrees. I still do a Spray application in the Spring on the soil/mulch surfaces manly because I bought a 2 pound bag and the product goes a long way. Also, I am a little uneasy even going into the third season. The disease is bacterial.

For the record in all of our potted trees and plants we have grown since I do mix a Sulfur solution and drench the Soil/Substrate in the Spring, Summer, and Fall. We have not had any other problems since that are fungal related. That is a different topic but I see it as an inexpensive preventative for fungal related issues.

Grimmy

 

[kingsville grower]

Yes the tree will die, when cutting roots barerooting and repotting we open up avenues for bacteria and fungus,,,, Told you I will take care of you, but if you broadcast this anymore you ain't getting squat

 

[Vasyl]

Since we reconstructed the landscape the field rep does not think it is needed and the Agri Center agrees. I still do a Spray application in the Spring on the soil/mulch surfaces manly because I bought a 2 pound bag and the product goes a long way. Also, I am a little uneasy even going into the third season. The disease is bacterial.

For the record in all of our potted trees and plants we have grown since I do mix a Sulfur solution and drench the Soil/Substrate in the Spring, Summer, and Fall. We have not had any other problems since that are fungal related. That is a different topic but I see it as an inexpensive preventative for fungal related issues.

Grimmy

Will something like daconil work for smaller applications?

 

[theta]

Man, sorry to hear that @GrimLore! Thank you for all that info.

Yes the tree will die, when cutting roots barerooting and repotting we open up avenues for bacteria and fungus,,,, Told you I will take care of you, but if you broadcast this anymore you ain't getting squat

Wow, really Mark? I started this thread yesterday before I contacted you, because I honestly didn't know how serious it was. I wanted people's opinion here on if I could treat it. I even said I thought you were a quality grower. I'm not "broadcasting" this in some effort to smear you. Very professional.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Yes the tree will die, when cutting roots barerooting and repotting we open up avenues for bacteria and fungus,,,, Told you I will take care of you, but if you broadcast this anymore you ain't getting squat

You should be ashamed. His rights as buyer cannot be put in check by his freedom of speech.

 

[Clicio]

Yes the tree will die, when cutting roots barerooting and repotting we open up avenues for bacteria and fungus,,,, Told you I will take care of you, but if you broadcast this anymore you ain't getting squat

I don't know this person or his business.
But certainly I would NEVER buy anything from a nursery that makes threats in order to shut up one of its customers.

 

[GrimLore]

Yes the tree will die, when cutting roots barerooting and repotting we open up avenues for bacteria and fungus,,,, Told you I will take care of you, but if you broadcast this anymore you ain't getting squat

Slow down there cowboy, he actually complimented you and was looking for solutions to do himself... On a bright note it really was good of you to point out what occurred as it is most likely not Pseudomonas syringae but rather fungal.

Grimmy

 

[GrimLore]

Will something like daconil work for smaller applications?

Daconil is very effective on a lot of fungal infestations at early stages. The Bacterial which is not encountered often requires different treatment as with Agri-Mycin 17 Fungicide (Ag Streptomycin) - just as in humans it gets treated with Streptomycin.

While on the subject of Fungal the plant you pictured should be destroyed, it is way to far along to treat effectively.

Grimmy

 

[Vin]

I wouldn't play around with it. Bag it up and let the landfill deal with it. Mark is a fair guy and has offered to replace it. Chalk it up to experience and get another.

 

[theta]

Yeah, I don't see any point in messing around with it. Soon as I get home, it's getting sealed up, along with the soil and thrown in trash. Pot and all tools getting thoroughly disinfected. Hopefully this will be the one and only time I come across something like this.

As far as everything else goes - I mean look, trees can get diseases and die, I understand that. I'm not saying Mark knowingly sold me a sick tree or anything like that. There's tons of happy customers, I said it from the beginning, he's a quality grower. But to come on here and threaten to withhold a refund? Uh, yeah that's pretty ridiculous.

Anyway, bottom line is he took care of it and I'm putting it behind me.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

I bought a kashima at the kannapolis show from this vendor, same time frame you got yours, mine is healthy.

 

[theta]

@Hack Yeah! Honestly I'd start treating this tree with some fungicide. I see similarities between this photo and earlier photos of mine. Could just be the lighting though.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

Thanks for the advice, I did leave mine out one night below freezing, rookie mistake, and I've chopped almost all roots off and screwed it to a board. I've insulted it enough to die anyways, lol. I'll spray it down though....

 

[Vasyl]

Daconil is very effective on a lot of fungal infestations at early stages. The Bacterial which is not encountered often requires different treatment as with Agri-Mycin 17 Fungicide (Ag Streptomycin) - just as in humans it gets treated with Streptomycin.

While on the subject of Fungal the plant you pictured should be destroyed, it is way to far along to treat effectively.

Grimmy

It is already bagged and disposed of. I am thinking about preventative measures for my other maples that were stored in the same room with the affected one.

 

[miker]

There is no saving any plant exposed to it. Sorry, lost and spent thousands working with experts while rebuilding our small landscape. It normally occurs HERE when there is a abnormal warm "Spring Like" period, followed by normal Winter conditions. IF Drainage is not correct the combination results in the bacterial infection in the soil which goes airborne. It wiped us out and took over one year to remove, replace topsoil, treat existing landscape, pots, shelves, and yes fences... I nightmare I don't even like to think about, tears were shed by Crystal and myself sending everything of to landfill. Now PLEASE note - this is all related to Pseudomonas syringae which is bacterial and only occurs in certain conditions which I will outline. Also note for other fungal problems I now of nobody that saved a plant having a black trunk - it is gone...

I will share what I learned and this will be a bit lengthy but informative -

Plant Symptoms Caused by Pseudomonas syringae

A variety of symptoms are associated with woody plants infected by Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae. Symptoms and symptom development depend on the species of plant infected, the plant part infected, the strain of Pseudomonas syringae, and the environment. More than one symptom can be simultaneously on a single plant.
•Flower blast: flowers and/or flower buds turn brown to black.
•Dead dormant buds, common on cherries and apricots.
•Necrotic leaf spots (entire clusters of younger, expanding leaves may be killed on filbert trees).
•Discolored and or blackened leaf veins and petioles resulting from systemic invasion and infection.
•Spots and blisters on fruit.
•Shoot-tip dieback, which appears as dead, blackened twig tissue extending down some distance from the tip (very common on maples and other seedlings).
•Stem cankers: depressed areas in the bark, which darken with age. A gummy substance often exudes from cankers on fruiting and flowering stone fruits (this symptom is referred to as “gummosis”). If cankers continue to enlarge, they may girdle the stem and subsequently kill a branch or the entire plant. IF the outer tissues of the canker area are cut away, the tissue underneath shows a reddish brown discoloration. This discoloration may also occur as vertical streaks in the vascular tissue.

Fixes Long term there is no shortcuts, airborne bacterial, you must find and destroy the source, normally the ground -

•Remove all infected plants, secure them in plastic, send to landfill including substrate. I might add in our case it was all plants - kept a few very special ones and treated them isolated, all died anyways, sigh.
•Locate where the drainage problem on your site is. Here it was a corner that appeared pitched down correctly BUT digging revealed it was blocked by buried brick, stones, and landscape cloth by the previous owner.
•We removed a lot of surrounding topsoil, 5 - 6 inches around 10 by 15 foot. Treated the remaining(I will explain and share the treatment). At that point cleanup is devastating but even more important. You must maintain a landscape that drains no matter what the weather does. Some very large Agri Farms lost all the same season.
•Isolated and worked on all containers and shelves, along with supporting materials such as blocks, rocks, statues etc... with Clorox Cleanup Bleach and sun drying.
•Applied Agri-Mycin 17 Fungicide (Ag Streptomycin) to all soil left while drying and prior to refilling. Also reapplied several times for a year to all new topsoil, fences, pots, tools, and everything out there.
•Over a year later established a new lawn, and setup clean shelves, etc...

I am certain I missed other minor details as I prefer not to think about it to much but feel free to PM or post here with questions. I will be happy to share in great detail if need be.

Grimmy

Shudder!!!

I am just going to wait for a dry week before leaf out and hit EVERYTHING with a half strength solution of Phyton right where it sits, then hit the more prone stuff every 6 weeks through thee growing season. That is pretty much the plan for pests too, systemic insecticide right from the get go then every month. I'm not going to screw around with plant plagues this year.

Sadly, the Japanese maples posted with the necrotic trunks and branches are long gone.

 

[ysrgrathe]

It is already bagged and disposed of. I am thinking about preventative measures for my other maples that were stored in the same room with the affected one.

They are probably fine. You'll see the same results with a tree that got frozen, it doesn't necessarily mean you are under attack by especially virulent bacteria.

 

[Vasyl]

They are probably fine. You'll see the same results with a tree that got frozen, it doesn't necessarily mean you are under attack by especially virulent bacteria.

I hope not

 

[BunjaeKorea]

It is already bagged and disposed of. I am thinking about preventative measures for my other maples that were stored in the same room with the affected one.

This stuff spreads by using infected tools and sometimes infected soil. Basically if they were just in thr same room with no contact then they should be fine.....the tree I destroyed didnt infect others so dont be overly alarmed.