Zrlkova

G

garywood

Chumono
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N. Alabama
USDA Zone
7
A while back there were some discussions about some of the problems with growing Zelkova. They like to grow! A few big roots is their preference and callus can be a problem. My approach is to get the roots under control first in order to control the heavy callus growth at chop sites.
 

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Awesome root and future nebari!!!

I feel (personal taste) it would be better if the straight trunk is shorter though.
 
Nice ! How long does it take to get roots like that ? Was it layered or did you remove the big roots slowly ? Thanks.
 
Dave, the tree was originally grown in the ground. It was dug and planted in 10gal pot. Grown for 1yr and then layered at the base. After that, 2yrs in an Anderson Tray.
 
Gary, curious about your technique for layering at ground level. Presumably you did this due to either poor rootage, or for trunk design purposes? I have several trees that I think I have decided to layer for better nebari.
Thanks
Dave
 
Ground level layering questions.

lordy said:
Gary, curious about your technique for layering at ground level. Presumably you did this due to either poor rootage, or for trunk design purposes? I have several trees that I think I have decided to layer for better nebari.
Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...

I am also interested in this discussion about ground level layering. I also have trees in the ground that will eventually require this technique. Most are Zelkova.
John
 
lordy said:
Gary, curious about your technique for layering at ground level. Presumably you did this due to either poor rootage, or for trunk design purposes? I have several trees that I think I have decided to layer for better nebari.
Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...

Dave, you are correct. To me, most field grown deciduous stock, especially Zelkova have larger roots or just bad roots for proportion in a bonsai pot. That's just me. The reason for the 10gal pot is to expend a lot of stored energy growing new roots and fine shoots instead of bolting. 1 year gives it time to gain some strength back. The 10gal pot is perfect for me, size wise, to move on to the table and give plenty of room for roots to run. In early spring before budbreak I wash the first few inches of soil from the base and do a ring-bark layer at the base. if there are large roots going in good direction I can use, I continue the line to include the flare and layer the root as well. I use a barrier to force the roots outward, weed barrier cut to form. Hormone, sphagnum around the cut and cover with soil and separate the following spring. Early spring layering seems to be controversial but works for me, YMMV:)
 
Do you ground layer maples in early spring as well ? I have a short growing season and early spring seems to be a good time so the roots have a chance to get established.
 
Garywood, thanks for discussing this with us! I have one question, just for my own understanding/clarification. You do your ground layering work at the beginning of your 10 gallon pot phase, correct?
 
@ Dave, I do all my layers in early spring,including maples.
@ E, post#4, it was grown 1yr before layering.
 
Hi Gary,

Great looking material.

Thanks for sharing your techniques with us.

I always enjoy seeing your work and reading your posts.

Cheers,
Paul
 
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