bonsaichile
Omono
I got this Washington hawthorn last fall it was like this when I got it, about 4 feet tall. I was really draw. To the first few inches of its trunk.
Washington Hawthorn Shohin Progression
- Thread starter bonsaichile
- Start date
bonsaichile
Omono
In early March, as the buds began moving, I repotted it. I did a drastic root prunning (about 80-85% reduction) and lopped off the main branches to begin building a canopy.
bonsaichile
Omono
It is already starting to sprout, with buds popping in good places. I will document it in this thread. Open to all advice, of course!
bonsaichile
Omono
This might be the front:
Kanorin
Omono
Cool project! I’ve got a couple of these that I’m working on building trunks on. I’ve been thinking they will make nice shohin. Probably one of the smallest leaf sizes for North American deciduous trees.
bonsaichile
Omono
Thanks! This guy will be a small tree, probably 10-11 inches total
bonsaichile
Omono
It rained like crazy here the last couple weeks, very unusual. This guy really exploded, putting several inches of growth in just a week. I still have not started fertilization. I will once the new growth hardens a bit and I cut back to the first set of leaves. I am very happy with how small the leaves are (@Kanorin you are totally right). As of today, it stands at 8 inches from the soil line.
Kanorin
Omono
Looking good! Any plans to do some wiring to those new shoots?
Not sure about Denver, but here I have to preventatively spray for cedar-hawthorn rust every spring (Daconil). Keep an eye out for some little yellow-orange dots on the foliage (first sign). If you don't take care of it at that point, it will progress into some nasty looking bulges at branch junctions.
Not sure about Denver, but here I have to preventatively spray for cedar-hawthorn rust every spring (Daconil). Keep an eye out for some little yellow-orange dots on the foliage (first sign). If you don't take care of it at that point, it will progress into some nasty looking bulges at branch junctions.
bonsaichile
Omono
Thanks for the tip, @Kanorin. I just gave all my trees and roses a systemic that should help with the Japanese beetle (a plague in this area). I will treat the hawthorn and junipers with daconil too.
I was thinking of cutting back to one or two pair of leaves in a couple weeks, as the shoots still look too tender to be wired. My plan was to grow and cut back over the season and then wire in the Fall, when there are no leaves. How do you treat yours?
Kanorin
Omono
I have about a dozen young ones that I'm growing out for two different forest plantings, so I haven't really done any refinement techniques on them. I'm sure you can cut them back hard at least once during the growing season. I trimmed one of mine about two weeks ago and it is responding with a second flush (our spring is probably about 2-3 weeks ahead of yours). I know there are a few other hawthorn threads from some members that have more experience. @Cajunrider ...can't seem to remember who else has hawthorn experience.
As far as wiring, maybe in 2-3 weeks one option is to do some loose wiring just to give the branches a bit of bend to them to start to give a little bit of that spreading crown (branches initially growing up from the trunk line, then flattening out some). A lot of the hawthorns that grow as street trees here in Missouri are at least as wide as they are tall. Maybe something along these lines - just an idea for you to think about.
Edit: wanted to add that wiring out those primary branches (as opposed to building them solely by clip and grow) will get them thicker, faster. There are pros and cons to this, but it's worth thinking about.
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bonsaichile
Omono
thanks for the ideas, @Kanorin. I am trying to balance the thickening with internodal distance. I have noticed this guy has irregular internodes, some short and some longer. Also, a couple of those branches I will let to grow long, in order to build some taper on the trunks and help close the pruning wounds. I hear hawrhorns are notoriously slow in closing wounds if at all. The way I envision this guy is not all that different from your virt: two foliage pads, both roughly triangular adding up to a triangular general shape:
bonsaichile
Omono
Kanorin
Omono
Yes. I'm pretty sure at least. Last year mine had some of those and I didn't treat it right away and then it progressed to swollen orange bulges at nodes...I am assuming they are the same pathogen. This year I see some of those orange dots and hopefully the daconil keeps it from progressing further.
bonsaichile
Omono
Ok, thanks. I will cut off those leaves as well
bonsaichile
Omono
@Kanorin, doing some research, it seems like daconil is effective but the best fungicide is one containing myclobutanil as its active ingredient, such as Immunox. It needs to be applied every 7-10 days from when the buds start moving. It might be too late once the spots appear, but I will try anyways. It seems like the life cycle of the fungus moves it from junipers to several trees of the Rosacea family, and they recommend not to have them together (separated by a few hundred yards, which might not be possible for me).
Here's a link:
Here's a link:
Kanorin
Omono
Yes, that's the one. I've never had any symptoms on any of my bonsai junipers, but there are quite a few eastern red cedars (juniper family) in the park down the street from me. I'm guessing it hops from there.@Kanorin, doing some research, it seems like daconil is effective but the best fungicide is one containing myclobutanil as its active ingredient, such as Immunox. It needs to be applied every 7-10 days from when the buds start moving. It might be too late once the spots appear, but I will try anyways. It seems like the life cycle of the fungus moves it from junipers to several trees of the Rosacea family, and they recommend not to have them together (separated by a few hundred yards, which might not be possible for me).
Here's a link:
mwar15
Omono
Nice bark!
bonsaichile
Omono
This guy got a haircut today and a 2nd appication of fungicide
bonsaichile
Omono
The tree was growing well and I left for a 3-week vacation. As it never happens, it rained literally evey day during those weeks. As a result, all my deciduous got anthracnose and were in a pitiful state when I came back. After a complete defoliatjon and weekly applications of cupper-based fungicide, they are all coming back. But I feel like I lost a whole season in developing this tree.
Kanorin
Omono
Setbacks like this stink, but I think you are underestimating the progress you made...even in spite of the setback. To my eyes this tree has advanced quite a bit since the pictures you posted from fall 2022.
