Japanese maple [#01]

[JoeR]

Joe I used a combo of cakes (MeanGreen) with water soluble fertilizers that includes Miracle Grow, Peter's 20/20, fish emulsion and seaweed extracts. I rotate between all of these and apply once a week. Usually now until about May I feed the trees only with fish emulsion to start them off. The cakes I place in May and I leave them until they are exhausted. I replace them as needed.

In early fall I feed with a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium. But I still do feed them nitrogen.

Thanks so much for the info!

Do you use the suggested strength for the miracle grow or do you use more/less?

 

[MACH5]

Thanks so much for the info!

Do you use the suggested strength for the miracle grow or do you use more/less?

More or less the recommended strength. Some folks cut that in half but I have never had any issues using it full strength. I forgot to mention that I do cut back on the liquid fertilizers in the heat of summer. I don't stop it but I do ease up on it.

 

[ajm55555]

Hi Sergio! Can I ask you a tip as an inexperienced Bonsai enthusiast?
In the last picture from 2012 at the beginning of the thread I can see some relatively long internodes in the bottom left part of the tree, an area that already has some structure.
Can you tell me what your tecnique is to grow the branches but at the same time keep short internodes, what you do in Spring, Summer and Fall as far as pruning is concerned? (and when exactly you prune)
Thanks!

PS congratulations for your work on the tree!
Andrea

 

[PiñonJ]

Joe I used a combo of cakes (MeanGreen) with water soluble fertilizers that includes Miracle Grow, Peter's 20/20, fish emulsion and seaweed extracts. I rotate between all of these and apply once a week. Usually now until about May I feed the trees only with fish emulsion to start them off. The cakes I place in May and I leave them until they are exhausted. I replace them as needed.

In early fall I feed with a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium. But I still do feed them nitrogen.

Excellent tree, including the overhead view! Do you get the Mean Green from Hollow Creek Bonsai? That's the only source I found on a search. Also, is it low-odor, like BioGold?

 

[MACH5]

Hi Sergio! Can I ask you a tip as an inexperienced Bonsai enthusiast?
In the last picture from 2012 at the beginning of the thread I can see some relatively long internodes in the bottom left part of the tree, an area that already has some structure.
Can you tell me what your tecnique is to grow the branches but at the same time keep short internodes, what you do in Spring, Summer and Fall as far as pruning is concerned? (and when exactly you prune)
Thanks!

PS congratulations for your work on the tree!
Andrea

Andrea, you can't do both. You can't really grow branches to a specific length while at the same time keeping internodes short. You basically have to do one before you do the other. With this said, I let grow whatever areas of the tree needs lengthening. Once you have branches at the right length, then you can start to think about developing your secondary branching and so on. As the tree ramifies you begin the process of refinement. Techniques like shoot pinching to keep internodes short and redistribute the energy evenly throughout the tree become important tools. It normally takes several to many years to build the canopy of a deciduous tree.

On more "finished" trees I pinch all outer shoots in spring keeping only the first pair of leaves. In summer I cut back any long shoots that have resulted from a second flush of growth. Afterwards I barely do anything until late winter/early spring of the following year when I do most of the work like heavy pruning and wiring.

You are in a much warmer area with milder winters. I think fall work on maples for those areas is ok.

Excellent tree, including the overhead view! Do you get the Mean Green from Hollow Creek Bonsai? That's the only source I found on a search. Also, is it low-odor, like BioGold?

I usually get the Mean Green fertilizer directly from the maker herself, Karen Proctor. You can reach her most easily via Facebook. And yes it is low odor.

 

[ajm55555]

Andrea, you can't do both. You can't really grow branches to a specific length while at the same time keeping internodes short. You basically have to do one before you do the other. With this said, I let grow whatever areas of the tree needs lengthening. Once you have branches at the right length, then you can start to think about developing your secondary branching and so on. As the tree ramifies you begin the process of refinement. Techniques like shoot pinching to keep internodes short and redistribute the energy evenly throughout the tree become important tools. It normally takes several to many years to build the canopy of a deciduous tree.

On more "finished" trees I pinch all outer shoots in spring keeping only the first pair of leaves. In summer I cut back any long shoots that have resulted from a second flush of growth. Afterwards I barely do anything until late winter/early spring of the following year when I do most of the work like heavy pruning and wiring.

You are in a much warmer area with milder winters. I think fall work on maples for those areas is ok.

Thanks for your insight Sergio. I guess sometimes you will find yourself in this situation:
you let a branch grow to thicken it and then it (unfortunately) develops a long internode at the beginning of the new growth (before the first pair of leaves.).
In this case, at some point, you will have to cut the whole new growth, right? When do you do that? Late Spring before the second possible growth or fall?

 

[MACH5]

Thanks for your insight Sergio. I guess sometimes you will find yourself in this situation:
you let a branch grow to thicken it and then it (unfortunately) develops a long internode at the beginning of the new growth (before the first pair of leaves.).
In this case, at some point, you will have to cut the whole new growth, right? When do you do that? Late Spring before the second possible growth or fall?

Yes, as the tree develops you can start cutting back at strategic points to begging shortening the lengths. But generally in a tree that needs lots of development, I would not worry about the length of the nodes. All that comes later. Set your basic structure first and then start to gradually refine.

Cutting back can be done anytime during the growing season to induce new shoots from a given area. However, do not do it too late because all new growth will not have time to harden before winter and most likely die back. In my area, I generally do not make any cuts from mid August on. You have a much longer growing season so I think you can cut back until a bit later.

In the fall, all pruning should be done right after leaf fall (I do not recommend this in much colder areas like mine). This will induce new buds the following spring. Absolutely seal all cuts (1/8" or larger).

As you may already know, all work of course has to be done on a healthy and vigorous tree. No pinching, wiring, pruning etc should ever be done on a weak or sick tree.

 

[LanceMac10]

Update? I saw a reference you made to this Maple........

 

[MACH5]

Update? I saw a reference you made to this Maple........

Yep! It's unfortunate but I suppose it happens. I will most likely have to pull it out because it simply will not look its best by September. Tree is completely fine, but some branches have gone into complete dormancy.

I have agreed with Bill to give it another couple of weeks but I can clearly see that I will have to pull it.

 

[M. Frary]

Yep! It's unfortunate but I suppose it happens. I will most likely have to pull it out because it simply will not look its best by September. Tree is completely fine, but some branches have gone into complete dormancy.

I have agreed with Bill to give it another couple of weeks but I can clearly see that I will have to pull it.

Ahhhh man. That blows!

 

[MACH5]

Such is the business Mike. Onwards and upwards!

 

[JudyB]

yikes, what happened? That's a shame, sorry to hear that, but glad the tree is ok.

 

[barrosinc]

some branches have gone into complete dormancy

does that mean die back? or a defoliation that did not send out buds?

Any idea why?

 

[MACH5]

yikes, what happened? That's a shame, sorry to hear that, but glad the tree is ok.

does that mean die back? or a defoliation that did not send out buds?

Any idea why?

I am not exactly sure. The intent was to try and get a smaller and fairly even crop of smaller leaves for the exhibit. It was defoliated early June which is ideal to allow enough time for the tree to bud once again. This was not to be. Instead, the tree had about a 60% budding while the rest of the branches, not only stayed dormant, but many of the petioles still remain attached. No dieback and the tree I believe is perfectly fine just a bit stubborn this year.

Although tough to know exactly, here is my theory as to what happened. The tree was fully defoliated except the interior weaker branches. These comprised of about one quarter of the total foliage mass. As the tree budded out again, lots of inner buds popped along the branches. This resulted in a total foliage density of about 70%. As a result, I believe the tree did not need much more to properly photosynthesize leaving many of its bare branch tips in a somewhat dormant stage.

I could have not predicted this type of response. So I am where I am and unfortunate indeed!

 

[JudyB]

Booooooo.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

I missed that shot in April; it's beautiful! Makes me a slave for maple bonsai. I like this pot and what you did with the moss.

 

[whfarro]

In a word....sucks....
Serg, some how I know that this set back will only result in a better tree in your very capable and talented care.

I guess that is very much a part of our passion for working with a growing and living art form. Sometimes mother nature just reminds us the she is in charge...and we accept her challenge daily.

Good luck. Keep us posted. Share pics and progress if you can.

 

[MACH5]

The "stubborn" maple on the bench this morning after a rainfall. Roughly almost three quarters of the foliage is out.






Many of the petioles are still attached even two months after defoliation. Clearly this tree is in no hurry to get all its leaves out this year.






Even on those branches were the petioles have fallen, the buds appear dormant and unlikely they will do much this year. They may have bid good night until next spring!

 

[LanceMac10]

Some "setback"!


On a serious note, I wasn't impressed with growth on most of my Maples this year. Typical, rambunctious spring growth, if a little early. I'll need to address what I believe is a little too much light in my cold frame. Memorial day weekend was unseasonably hot, sandwiched by fairly warm, then cool, dry, super windy days. It seemed something similar, at least to me, to what I see here...(on much lesser material)....(crispy-er too)....

I was curious to see a photo of it, thanks for hangin' one up!! At least you could let the milk crates get a little dirty I'm gonna' go hose mine down right now!

The petiole thing is weird, that one looks like its trying to grow, not dry up and fall?!?! Some kinda' @MACH5 voodoo I suspect

Classy looking tree.......

 

[Dav4]

I wonder if the stubborn buds will push if/when it cools a bit in your locale? It's too bad timing wise, but at least the tree is healthy and not dealing with a true issue. Good luck, Serge.