Olive tree

[Gustavo Martins]

Found a relatively thick-thrunked olive (6-7 cm) tree at a local nursery, but the foliage and ramification only appears at about 1 m height. It also appears to have some nice trunk flare hidden in the pot, but I can't be sure without a repot. I've heard that olive trees can have their trunk chopped back hard, even below any ramification that they readily back bud. Can someone around here with experience confirm this information?

The tree is currently selling very cheap (I think) at 29€. I'm tempted. Also, what would be the best time to do the trunk chop? Can I do the trunk chop and take of the roots (and repotting) all at the same time or should I do these on different years?

 

[my nellie]

I do confirm the above. And I think you can experiment with this nursery olive and see the results for yourself.
The climate in Azores is mild/temperate, isn't it? Don't you have native olives growing in nature there?
Read also this : http://sydneycitybonsai.org.au/acrobat/newsletter_jan_feb2007.pdf It is what I'm telling you!
You can do all major work at the same time. I'd suggest to do this in spring.

 

[Tycoss]

Olives come back really well from big trunk chops and root reduction. I have two that were chopped from 3' down to 10" one year and had a 75% root reduction the next. Both branches and roots grew back very aggressively.

 

[leatherback]

Do a dig around in the pot. The best part could very well hidden belowground.

They do sprout very well. And yes, root reduction is not a problem. I would recommend doing major work in late spring, when weather is nice and warm. Olives thrive in the hot dry weather.

This is one I have been working on for some 3 seasons now. The first picture makes me realize how much I have improved my collection... None of the other plants are still with me..

June 2013:

A few weeks after being cut (Early summer) sprouting:


Earlier this year:

 

[Gustavo Martins]

I do confirm the above. And I think you can experiment with this nursery olive and see the results for yourself.
The climate in Azores is mild/temperate, isn't it? Don't you have native olives growing in nature there?
Read also this : http://sydneycitybonsai.org.au/acrobat/newsletter_jan_feb2007.pdf It is what I'm telling you!
You can do all major work at the same time. I'd suggest to do this in spring.

Thanks for the link. Very interesting and... dramatic

Yes it's mild and temperate here. There are lots of Olive trees in the mainland Portugal but not so much here. Instead, we have Picconia spp. and Ligustrum spp. which are species of the same family (Oleaceae). Actually, I also want to try Picconia azorica. Endemic, small leaf, light bark with dark fruits (very similar to olives). I will try to air-layer from an old individual next spring.

you know, I'm in the collecting phase But I must have an olive tree because this is also my middle surname (Oliveira).

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Olives come back really well from big trunk chops and root reduction. I have two that were chopped from 3' down to 10" one year and had a 75% root reduction the next. Both branches and roots grew back very aggressively.

Thanks for confirming. Will definetly try.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Do a dig around in the pot. The best part could very well hidden belowground.

They do sprout very well. And yes, root reduction is not a problem. I would recommend doing major work in late spring, when weather is nice and warm. Olives thrive in the hot dry weather.

This is one I have been working on for some 3 seasons now. The first picture makes me realize how much I have improved my collection... None of the other plants are still with me..

June 2013:
View attachment 125730
A few weeks after being cut (Early summer) sprouting:
View attachment 125731

Earlier this year:
View attachment 125732

Thanks for the confirmation. And beautiful little tree by the way. I wish I can make a similar one.

 

[Anthony]

Interesting Gustavo,

the Oliveira part. That is the surname of some old friends of the family/

The olive grows here [ small leaf ] but it can only be restrained so much [ for us ] or the branch dies and is replaced.
From seed, source South Africa. 1986 or so.

You may find it is better to fertilise well for a month, and then do a serious pruning and about 2 months later.
do a proper repot
Good Day
Anthony


As you can see not a big specimen

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Interesting Gustavo,

the Oliveira part. That is the surname of some old friends of the family/

The olive grows here [ small leaf ] but it can only be restrained so much [ for us ] or the branch dies and is replaced.
From seed, source South Africa. 1986 or so.

You may find it is better to fertilise well for a month, and then do a serious pruning and about 2 months later.
do a proper repot
Good Day
Anthony


As you can see not a big specimen

View attachment 125761

Now you know (in case you didn't already) what the name means It's one of the most common surnames in Portugal and is of jewish origin (as are all the surnames that are tree/plants names).

Olives are grown by the thousands in the mainland Portugal, especially in the centre and south, along with Quercus suber for the production of olive oil and cork. It's hot (+40 ºC in summer) and dry. Here not so much. I've been told that olives either do not produce fruit or that these are not good, but that the tree grows fine. Since I do not care about the fruit...

I will buy it today and do the pruning around March. Should I fertilize now? I thought trees should not be fertilized in winter.

I like the trunk of your olive very much.

 

[petegreg]

Do a dig around in the pot. The best part could very well hidden belowground.

They do sprout very well. And yes, root reduction is not a problem. I would recommend doing major work in late spring, when weather is nice and warm. Olives thrive in the hot dry weather.

This is one I have been working on for some 3 seasons now. The first picture makes me realize how much I have improved my collection... None of the other plants are still with me...

Earlier this year:
View attachment 125732

Wow, that's a nice work.

 

[Anthony]

Gustavo,

late spring would be the normal suggestion for fertiliizing, for one month and then the cut back.

BUT if you are - repotting, - in late spring, you would then have ask the others for the when to
cut back severely.

On my side the rules are a little different.

Just remember for a burst of energy to handle severe cutting or defoliation, one month of fertiliser
before. Or you ask the others about the energy of Spring growth.

Thanks for the look.
Good Day
Anthony

* we normally don't ------ bare root ------------ and do severe cutting back in the same year.
But then everyone here is just 50 ish and time passing is not that important.

 

[leatherback]

And beautiful little tree by the way. I wish I can make a similar one.

It really is not all that good yet. But with patience and time.. Who knows. I am sure you can do this better then me. I did not really take the plant serious initially.

As for cutting back: I would prefer to have the plant wel established before major trimming too. Then, once a good head of green develops, repot. Internode length is so short that you do not need to worry about that as your would for e.g., maples.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Bought the tree. Picked the one with the largest visible trunk flare. It's nearly 10 cm at its widest point (just at the substrate line). Going to let it adapt to my backyard conditions and then in March or so do a repot and maybe a trunk chop.

While getting the tree in the car some of its twigs snapped. I put these in some pots with scoria and rooting hormone. I know it is not the best time of the year, but.... who knows.

Will get some pics to show you later today.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

Ok some update... and pics

The tree put a lot of new leaves the past two months. So I think I am going to trunk chop and repot in a better soil around March, when it's a bit warmer.

Not really sure where to make the chop though. Any suggestion? Here's some pics of all sides.
View media item 3175View media item 3176View media item 3177View media item 3178View media item 3179View media item 3180

 

[fredman]

The lower the better is what I keep on hearing here

 

[Gustavo Martins]

yeah... my doubt is this: either just above that small protuberance or below it. If below, it's going to get really shooooorrrrtttt

 

[Adair M]

You can chop as low as you want. With the trunk you chop off, stick it in some sand. I bet it will root!

 

[fredman]

some sand

Uh Uh....perlite

 

[leatherback]

either just above that small protuberance or below it.

I would say that is a grafting mark..?

 

[sorce]

It really is not all that good yet.

Whatever Bro!

That's wicked!

Great pot too!

Sorce