Aging bark

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woodbury MN
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does anyone know a way to speed up the aging of a trees bark?
 
I seem to recall hearing of the technique of wrapping the trunk in wet sphagnum moss held in place for a prolonged period of time with Saran Wrap, and periodically injecting new water to keep the moss wet. I don't recall ever trying it.
 
it depends on many factors though, as somebody said...what type of material are you starting with. a hornbeam, a beech or zelkova is never going to produce the the deeply fissured, ridged bark of an oak.
The most reliable answer, is time. weather conditions.
 
I’ll repeat a story I once saw on a video about Kimura:

He said he noticed that while walking in the woods, he noticed that the bark on the north sides of the trees was rougher than the bark on the south sides!

So, he had a tree that he felt didn’t have good bark on the side he had chosen for the front. So, he set the tree in his garden so that the front faced north, and left it there. For 5 years! Only after 5 years had passed, he felt the bark was of sufficient quality that began to style the tree.

On the other hand...

I have heard others say to face the side you want to make rough to the sun. (Which would be the south side!)

Personally, I have found that time is the best way.

One other thing:

For some trees, confining them to a pot tends to have them make rough bark at a younger age than trees grown in the ground. Go figure!
 

I can't deny, or explain, what I can observe.

Sorce
 

I can't deny, or explain, what I can observe.

Sorce
Fascinating.
 
I seem to recall hearing of the technique of wrapping the trunk in wet sphagnum moss held in place for a prolonged period of time with Saran Wrap, and periodically injecting new water to keep the moss wet. I don't recall ever trying it.
I tried this on a Seiju. Turned out to be a way to air layer them, but is actually counter productive for adding bark.
 
Adair M, post:
I’ll repeat a story I once saw on a video about Kimura:
He said he noticed that while walking in the woods, he noticed that the bark on the north sides of the trees was rougher than the bark on the south sides!
On the other hand...
I have heard others say to face the side you want to make rough to the sun. (Which would be the south side!)

One other thing:

For some trees, confining them to a pot tends to have them make rough bark at a younger age than trees grown in the ground. Go figure!
This is interesting subject.
I did a minor thesis of this topic few years ago. I found out the direct sunlight and water has a strong effect on bark aging. For example, the bark at the shady area exposed to the water
17.jpg

The bark at sunny area exposed to the water
18.jpg

The bark at sunny area without water exposure
19.jpg

The bark at shady area without water exposure
20.jpg

p/s: these pictures taken from the same tree.

Besides, the tree grown in the container all of its life will have the bark characteristic completely different with the one grown in the ground. If you asked me which one I preferred, I would prefer the container grown
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Kimura’s Story was about a small semi-cascade JWP, published in an old Bonsai Today article. He claimed to have observed bark forming faster on the shadier side of a tree, so he put that side under an eaves for a few years to bark it up. What showed in the photos was some progress, but with no control or real date stamp on the images, it could be another 6-year seed-to-Kokufu JBP kind of thing.

Container-growing produces bark more in-scale with a tree, but that takes longer. The only good answer to developing bark:

wait for it.............😜
 
Kimura’s Story was about a small semi-cascade JWP, published in an old Bonsai Today article. He claimed to have observed bark forming faster on the shadier side of a tree, so he put that side under an eaves for a few years to bark it up. What showed in the photos was some progress, but with no control or real date stamp on the images, it could be another 6-year seed-to-Kokufu JBP kind of thing.

Container-growing produces bark more in-scale with a tree, but that takes longer. The only good answer to developing bark:

wait for it.............😜
That sounds right.
 
This is interesting subject.
I did a minor thesis of this topic few years ago. I found out the direct sunlight and water has a strong effect on bark aging. For example, the bark at the shady area exposed to the water
View attachment 251985

The bark at sunny area exposed to the water
View attachment 251986

The bark at sunny area without water exposure
View attachment 251987

The bark at shady area without water exposure
View attachment 251988

p/s: these pictures taken from the same tree.

Besides, the tree grown in the container all of its life will have the bark characteristic completely different with the one grown in the ground. If you asked me which one I preferred, I would prefer the container grown
Thụ Thoại
What does “water exposure” mean in this context?
 
This is my thinking of aging the bark: whatever can cause the problem for human’s skin, they can also age the tree’s bark ! Sound easy, doesn’t it? 😊
Thụ Thoại
 
It means the bark was contacted with water physically
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Sorry, but I still don’t understand. Trees live outside where they get rained on. So they get exposed to water.

My bonsai get exposed to water daily. I make sure to water all sides of the pot, so the trunk usually gets wet in the process.

Can you elaborate what “exposure to water” means , or how it affects the bark?
 
Exposure to water: could that be from moss growing on tree and humidity?

With rough bark Japanese maples, they develop nice bark on wounds, and they also need sunlight for bark to develop.
 
Not relevant to aging the bark rather than the deadwood but I thought I would share this.
There is an interesting (or innovative ?) "method" by Marcus Watts (UK) described on IBC about using pipe freezing spray Winter in a can in order to age the deadwood.
 
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