Itoigawa shohin

[Pharvey3232]

Hi. Glad to be aboard the forum !!
Recently purchased a little shohin juniper around 2 weeks ago and I'm letting it acclimate to my Houston tx climate. Gave it a full soaking and fed with bio gold when it arrived It's been on my balcony in filterd sun/ shade for the last week and a half to adjust. We've been getting hit hard the last 5 days with rain rain rain so the little tree has not had time to really dry out so I've watered it sparely The bonsai mix is really good and drains well but withhold the amount of rain we've received it's still pretty damp. I've since moved it so it wouldn't receive anymore rain until it's dried out more. Today was our first day of full sun so I put it out for full morning sun. Around 1pm after the morning sun I noticed yellowing it the tips on 2 pads This happened today because this morning It wasn't there. My question being would this be from the excessive rain and water (because the soil is still damp even after 3 hours of sun) Or could this be from its first full morning sun?? ......... and any suggestions moving forward or am I on the right track. I'll attach pics

 

[sorce]

Welcome to Crazy!

I doubt that has anything to do with your care.

In time, consider removing those low branches, the trunk is beautiful enough there to draw the eye up to what could be a more realistic canopy.

Nice.

Sorce

 

[Pharvey3232]

Welcome to Crazy!

I doubt that has anything to do with your care.

In time, consider removing those low branches, the trunk is beautiful enough there to draw the eye up to what could be a more realistic canopy.

Nice.

Sorce

Thank you!
will defiantly consider in the future Those lower branches seem to be thickening up The lower trunk and nebari at this early stage.
So I should be fine then with the yellowing foliage tips? Would you just let the soil dry out almost completely before re watering ? It's very humid here right now so it's staying moist longer than normal.

 

[sorce]

Thank you!
will defiantly consider in the future Those lower branches seem to be thickening up The lower trunk and nebari at this early stage.
So I should be fine then with the yellowing foliage tips? Would you just let the soil dry out almost completely before re watering ? It's very humid here right now so it's staying moist longer than normal.

Dry Is Die! I don't let anything dry out.

Sorce

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Please tell us a little more about your purchase.
Where (location) did it come from? Was it packed and if so, what was the length of the delivery time...
cheers
DSD sends

 

[BonsaiDTLA]

That's a nice looking tree, in a befitting pot.

 

[Pharvey3232]

Please tell us a little more about your purchase.
Where (location) did it come from? Was it packed and if so, what was the length of the delivery time...
cheers
DSD sends

Sure thing.
not came from North Carolina. Transit time was good , only 2 days. It came with damp foam on the top of the soil. It was wrapped in Saran Wrap plastic to keep the soil contained and then the pot was bubble wrapped The whole tree was wired at the base in the box to keep from moving. The foliage had popcorn styrofoam in between to keep safe. I've attache's packing Pics.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Nice tree!

Yep. So like @sorce said I wouldn't worry unless it gets a whole heck of alot worse. I'm thinking my needle tips might get a little yellow if it was bundled up, packed and shipped.....

You might put it in at least 1/2 sun.... plants gotta photosynthesize after all. If you are really worried about too much water, chock up one side of the pot during rainy days.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Pharvey3232]

Nice tree!

Yep. So like @sorce said I wouldn't worry unless it gets a whole heck of alot worse. I'm thinking my needle tips might get a little yellow if it was bundled up, packed and shipped.....

You might put it in at least 1/2 sun.... plants gotta photosynthesize after all. If you are really worried about too much water, chock up one side of the pot during rainy days.

cheers
DSD sends

Thanks dsd!
you are probably correct as it's just in its adjustment period. I won't panicking yet
Paul

 

[Pharvey3232]

Ah. My wife informs me they perhaps the foliage my have got a little burned ? Once I received the tree a week ago I sat it in filtered sun to let it acclimate to my climate. Only yesterday did it set it out in full sun from 9am to 1 pm. When I moved it back to filter sun I noticed the tips of some pads had fiends yellow brown. If this is the case Will the tree eventually adjust and should I keep letting it have morning sun ?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Haven’t met too many junipers that did not like full sun...

If a juniper is kept in too much shade the foliage will try to spread out, while in full sun foliage tends to be more compact.

Try to ease the juniper into full sun over time. Say add hour more every 3 -4 days until it’s in mostly sun.

btw Can you please list your approximate location in your profile? It helps responders give better advice. Hopefully someone in your area will pick up it and be able to help even more.

Good luck!
DSD sends

 

[Pharvey3232]

Haven’t met too many junipers that did not like full sun...

If a juniper is kept in too much shade the foliage will try to spread out, while in full sun foliage tends to be more compact.

Try to ease the juniper into full sun over time. Say add hour more every 3 -4 days until it’s in mostly sun.

btw Can you please list your approximate location in your profile? It helps responders give better advice. Hopefully someone in your area will pick up it and be able to help even more.

Good luck!
DSD sends

Perfect. Thank you I will do this
Profile also updated. Sorry !

 

[Pharvey3232]

Spoke with the gentleman at the bonsai nursery where i purchased my tree He said from the pictures it looked like a fungus Most likely from the trip here as well as the rain we have had. He told me to tilt the pot when watering and watch the moisture levels when watering. Also to pinch or cut back the infected brown areas As not to let it spread and treat with fungicide per manufacture instruction. He used clearys 3336f once a month and it infected he treats his trees weekly. So I've cut back the brown tips and sprayed with a 3 in 1 fungicide pesticide from garden safe will do this twice daily for a week per mfg instructions Hoping for good luck!!

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Good job calling back for more information.

One of the issues with using chemicals Cleary’s 3336, etc is that sooner or later the bugs etc mutate to resist these, leading to folks having to use more and multiple chemicals for the same result. Farmers know this really well. It’s literally a war our there. Here’s what the Safety Data Sheet looks like for that product. Really nasty to inhale too...

I’ve been testing a bio fungicide called Serenade and it seems to work really well as long as I apply it when trouble begins. Hasn’t happened to get out of control but then again I haven’t been gone for the most of the year.
Here’s the SDS for this newer product.

Best
DSD sends

 

[Japonicus]

We've been getting hit hard the last 5 days with rain rain rain so the little tree has not had time to really dry out so I've watered it sparely
The bonsai mix is really good and drains well but withhold the amount of rain we've received it's still pretty damp

This plus shade plus shipping.

Your bio gold is more likely to cause a "burn" than a couple hours of Sunlight.
Unless you're aware of the feeding regime prior to purchase always best to wait.
I don't think it's burn of any type though, rather consistently damp and lack of light.
If it were shipping damage I would expect entire shoots to be this way instead of the current tips,
which makes me think roots unhappy. It needs a wet/dry cycle, but not entirely dry.
Before you water, scratch the soil surface. If it's moist 1/4 -1/2" down and you can water a bit later, wait till later.
If it is lighter coloured and void of moisture at the surface, it is probably time to water.
Hefting the pot at these times is a good idea. You'll get a better idea how much moisture is actually there.
This works exceedingly well for light weight pots like plastic or mica, where pottery tends to be a lot heavier.

I am curious as to when they applied the wire. Beautiful tree underway.

Do you have any other junipers and is this your 1st bonsai?

 

[Pharvey3232]

This plus shade plus shipping.

Your bio gold is more likely to cause a "burn" than a couple hours of Sunlight.
Unless you're aware of the feeding regime prior to purchase always best to wait.
I don't think it's burn of any type though, rather consistently damp and lack of light.
If it were shipping damage I would expect entire shoots to be this way instead of the current tips,
which makes me think roots unhappy. It needs a wet/dry cycle, but not entirely dry.
Before you water, scratch the soil surface. If it's moist 1/4 -1/2" down and you can water a bit later, wait till later.
If it is lighter coloured and void of moisture at the surface, it is probably time to water.
Hefting the pot at these times is a good idea. You'll get a better idea how much moisture is actually there.
This works exceedingly well for light weight pots like plastic or mica, where pottery tends to be a lot heavier.

I am curious as to when they applied the wire. Beautiful tree underway.

Do you have any other junipers and is this your 1st bonsai?

Hi!
This is my first juniper. I've had them years ago but mostly general nursery stock , pretty much the type you would find at a Home Depot etc. this is my first really intermediate tree Thanks for the advice. As a matter of fact it didn't appear until after I put the bio gold pellets out ! Should I remove them , as I thought they would help ??

thanks!

 

[Japonicus]

Hi!
This is my first juniper. I've had them years ago but mostly general nursery stock , pretty much the type you would find at a Home Depot etc. this is my first really intermediate tree Thanks for the advice. As a matter of fact it didn't appear until after I put the bio gold pellets out ! Should I remove them , as I thought they would help ??

thanks!

Being how you've only had this tree 2 weeks, I would not feed for a month from the time I got it.
Generally the tree will only use what it can and the rest is washed away. I think Bio Gold is slow release and low N. There are different Bio Gold formulations I believe
In my grow zone I have not reduced Nitrogen yet but soon will. I could feed my juniper twice a week with no burn, but normally feed every Sunday weather permitting.
I still think the consistent moisture is key to the yellow tips. Whether a disease or soggy roots.

Here's what I would do. When you're watering again in a wet/dry cycle, use Superthrive at the stressed level once/week, then feed, work on getting it into FULL Sun soon.
Stop feeding by late October using Superthrive at maintenance level 1/4 Tsp/gallon water once/week, and do not remove any foliage this year.
Research repotting juniper this Winter. In April repot so you get to know the soil and the root system.
Leave the foliage alone and let it be in FULL Sun. Evening shade is ok or 2-4pm shade is ok, but the Sun will help immensely.

Once recovered from repotting and putting on vigorous growth (could skip a year wait and see) apply correct thinning measures
probably by mid July next year to keep the pads maintained. No big pruning, probably not much lignified wood will be thinned, mostly
upwards and downwards growth on the branches. Keep interior growth.

 

[Pharvey3232]

Being how you've only had this tree 2 weeks, I would not feed for a month from the time I got it.
Generally the tree will only use what it can and the rest is washed away. I think Bio Gold is slow release and low N. There are different Bio Gold formulations I believe
In my grow zone I have not reduced Nitrogen yet but soon will. I could feed my juniper twice a week with no burn, but normally feed every Sunday weather permitting.
I still think the consistent moisture is key to the yellow tips. Whether a disease or soggy roots.

Here's what I would do. When you're watering again in a wet/dry cycle, use Superthrive at the stressed level once/week, then feed, work on getting it into FULL Sun soon.
Stop feeding by late October using Superthrive at maintenance level 1/4 Tsp/gallon water once/week, and do not remove any foliage this year.
Research repotting juniper this Winter. In April repot so you get to know the soil and the root system.
Leave the foliage alone and let it be in FULL Sun. Evening shade is ok or 2-4pm shade is ok, but the Sun will help immensely.

Once recovered from repotting and putting on vigorous growth (could skip a year wait and see) apply correct thinning measures
probably by mid July next year to keep the pads maintained. No big pruning, probably not much lignified wood will be thinned, mostly
upwards and downwards growth on the branches. Keep interior growth.

Ah. Ok good to know. Will do this.
The bio Gold I'm using is a N-P-K 4-5-4. It is supposedly a pretty balance Feed.
The information you've provided helps immensely and I'll follow this plan ! I'm excited ! I want this little tree Thrive and do well so my wife will let me continue to buying them. Lol!! She said let's see how you do with this one first (totally makes sense )

I want to thank you and everyone else here. It's amazing to find a community of people who like and enjoy the same obsession helping each other. And I welcome criticism ! I have thick skin and I want to know what more experienced people have to say
Again thank you !

 

[Japonicus]

You’re welcome. When sorce said dry is die he meant bone dry.
No dry is death too.

With good draining inorganic soil a rainy week will not damage the tree.

My 20-$25 Shimpaku from NEB 2008

Time for a dedicated thread for the 1st Shimpaku I owned. Oct. 8th 2008 I carried this one around with me in fear it would get snatched up if I set it down. Pretty good sized area NEB is. Tag read-shimpaku 20 or $25 and the fella at the register questioned the cost, and I said I had not...

www.bonsainut.com

I got this shimpaku at New England Bonsai in 2008.
Brian Van Fleet left a link for Summer work on shimpaku there from his web site Nebari Bonsai.

 

[Pharvey3232]

You’re welcome. When sorce said dry is die he meant bone dry.
No dry is death too.

With good draining inorganic soil a rainy week will not damage the tree.

My 20-$25 Shimpaku from NEB 2008

Time for a dedicated thread for the 1st Shimpaku I owned. Oct. 8th 2008 I carried this one around with me in fear it would get snatched up if I set it down. Pretty good sized area NEB is. Tag read-shimpaku 20 or $25 and the fella at the register questioned the cost, and I said I had not...

www.bonsainut.com

I got this shimpaku at New England Bonsai in 2008.
Brian Van Fleet left a link for Summer work on shimpaku there from his web site Nebari Bonsai.

Fantastic. Amazing to see what someone with patience and knowledge can do with $20-30. Gives me a lot of hope and enthusiasm.
Thank you for sharing