Very late to this thread, and my thoughts may not be altogether welcome, but perhaps they will be of some help.
I think you have a very nice piece of material, and are fortunate to have it. Larches are great to work with.
Several pointers may help your initial work - which is going well overall.
The "naturalistic" style in bonsai does not mean "natural". It's main focus is on producing images that are less traditionally stylized, and more reflective of what we actually see in nature. It is about the image, not the method used, and does not simply mean that we do little to the "natural" piece of material we start with. It actually involves a great deal of manipulation of the tree, and is difficult to pull off, and time consuming, because the work must be hidden: there is typically a great deal of human intervention, but it is not noticeable at all, and the tree therefore LOOKS natural but is not simply a piece of material as we find it.
Along those lines, if we look at trees as they grow in nature, we notice that they look much different at different ages. A juvenile tree, especially a conifer, typically starts off with straight, apically dominant growth in a conical shape: like the Christmas tree you probably have in your living room right now. As it matures, the growth becomes less apically dominant over time, it thickens, and the branches become more contorted and irregular. An old tree, if it lives long enough, eventually starts to die from the top down. There are probably few trees of this age left in the forests where you live to serve as examples, but you might find pictures of them, and they are worth studying closely. They have an ancient and venerable character about them.
Your tree, as it is now, is representative of a fairly juvenile tree. The trunk is thin. The branches are straight. The overall shape is conical and fairly regular. Elements of early maturity, however, are seen: the slightly crooked top and the nebari.
There is nothing wrong with a juvenile-looking tree as a bonsai, but many of us find the look of a more mature or ancient image more interesting and appealing. Along those lines, and just from the standpoint of overall aesthetics as well, I'd like to make two suggestions which, even if you don't put them into practice with this particular tree, may help with future ones as you develop in the art.
The first one may not appeal to you at all with this tree, but even folks much more traditional than I am would point out that the tree is far too tall for the thickness of it's trunk and the maturity of its base. I usually hate "The Rules" for their own sake, but the 6:1 rule for trunk height:thickness is one that is hard to break convincingly.
With such a nice piece of starter material as yours is, it is often gut wrenching to even think about cutting away most of it, but you would either have to do that (about 2/3 of it!) or put it in the ground for 10+ years to thicken it up so the proportions of the trunk are thick enough to support such a tall tree in a visually pleasing manner. Sorry.
Second, it is important to understand that wiring is a means to an end, not an end in itself. Your wiring is neat and nicely done, but it accomplishes so little of the great benefit it could produce that it strikes me as not worth doing in the first place. Typically, two major improvements are produced by wiring: branch placement, and branch contortion.
Branch placement, such as pulling branches down to simulate the effects seen on conifers in snow-heavy climates, is almost always accomplished better and more safely with guy wires. Even branch placement to the sides or even upwards is often easy with guy wires. Yes, they do look ugly for a few months or more, but such major branch placement only typically needs to be done once during the initial styling.
Branch contortions, OTOH, are where wrapped wiring can really shine. The only alternative is clip-and-grow techniques - VERY slow with most trees in most climates. Once wrapped wire is in place (and this is usually better to do at times other than the winter!), movements can be imposed along the length of branches and at their branching points that will create great visual interest and an authentic image of age. Depending on the type of tree, and depending on one's wishes and technique, anything from gentle undulations to extremely sharp bends can be imposed. Usually, just to wrap a branch neatly, but then merely use it to bend the branch down or place the branch somewhere that a guy wire could place it, without taking advantage of the contortions that can be imposed along the branch, is a wasted opportunity, IMO.
Hope that helps. Best of luck with this great tree.