Beni Maiko suddenly dying at the beginning of Spring

[ajm55555]

yes. I've had trees that have had roots damaged over the winter try and leaf out then do exactly this.

The damage can be cumulative over winter, if the tree hasn't gotten adequate shelter. This can be especially true in late winter here in the South, when temperatures start to jump between extremes. A day with 80 degree highs in Feb. followed by a series of days with lows in the 30s can push trees to come out of dormancy early--moving it inside and outside during the winter can accelerate this process. Once buds have leaf edges showing, even less than 1 mm, the tree's root system has lost over 90 percent of its winter cold resistance.

If this were my tree, I would keep the tree's roots moist (not soggy) and in place where it will get seven hours or so of sun. Let it alone, do nothing other than water it. Hopefully, if this is root damage, the tree will push a new set of leaves. That will put quite a load on the plant, however. If it does re-leaf, I would let it be for the year.

If it doesn't leaf out in a couple of weeks, I would pull it out of the pot and see what's going on with the roots...possibly doing an emergency repot. but you're not there yet.

Thanks Rockm! This is extremely helpful. It's inside since a few days ago in an unheated tree ramp where it gets full sun the whole morning (when we have sun :-/ )
I'll keep you updated.

 

[rockm]

Thanks Rockm! This is extremely helpful. It's inside since a few days ago in an unheated tree ramp where it gets full sun the whole morning (when we have sun :-/ )
I'll keep you updated.

It should be outside now.

 

[ajm55555]

It should be outside now.

We will still have a few days with temperatures close to freezing. When they're over, it will go outside. Do you think it should be outside anyway?

 

[rockm]

We will still have a few days with temperatures close to freezing. When they're over, it will go outside. Do you think it should be outside anyway?

Depends on "close to freezing" If you're in Atlanta, the forecast I've seen is for lowest temps in the high 40's at night. That's not a problem. Tree should be outside. If temperatures are forecast to be in the 38-35 range, I'd bring it in. I'm north of you and there are no problematic temperatures in the ten day forecast.

 

[ajm55555]

If temperatures are forecast to be in the 38-35 range

Currently I'm in Stuttgart, Germany ;-) Close to freezing means 1-4C / 34-40F. So I'll keep it inside for a few extra days.

 

[Forsoothe!]

False spring. Trees begin growing as conditions allow in spring. The three main factors are: the end of the dormant period which is some number of days at lowered temperatures, somewhere in the 30's F; Increase in photo-period; And, average temperature, expressed as accumulated degree days, which is some combination of air and root zone warmth over time. Just warm for a day air won't kick off the growing season. The combination of a tree in a pot that is exposed to just protected weather: out on a sunny or acceptable temperature day with the nighttime temps in a protected garage will give the plant some average 24 hour period temperature that may be approximately "spring". Add to that the accumulating number of lumins, increasing photo-period times the intensity of sunlight, and you are asking for trouble if those two factors are occurring after satisfaction of the number of days dormancy.

Here in Michigan, we fear a false spring where we get a warm spell of a couple weeks in late March/early April. That tells the plant, "spring is here. Grow." If that is followed by a 2 or 3 week spell of 30'sF at night and cloudy, wet days. We can lose fruit crops if the flowers open just as conditions for wind & bee pollination become crappy for the duration of flowering. We can lose woodies that are marginally too far north, too, because their programed quiet period is shorter than northerly plants so the effects of false spring can be magnified.

When people "protect" trees in a pot by exposing them to "spring" in conditions that don't support continued growth, that is, grow stop grow stop stop stop grow stop stop grow stop, the plant will do the best it can, but it is going to be stressed to the maximum of it's ability. Once the leaves start to expand, they need, absolutely need, to grow. The process is a system of roots sending minerals and water to the primary buds which grow and use sunshine to make sugars to send back to the roots. There is some window of opportunity that the roots will continue to direct fluids to the primary buds, and if they don't receive sugars in return, they will re-direct root fluids to secondary buds and abandon those areas of the tree that are evidently unproductive. Imagine that occurring in this garage-patio dance.

I'm speculating, of course, because I can't count lumins and degree days of warmth for you, or even for me. And that's why I don't like early spring, I fear it.

 

[ajm55555]

I understand that the budding start period is particularly delicate for some trees (e.g. some species of JM). I was boldly doing nothing in the past years and I had no issues. Until last year and then now.