Best medium for juniper cuttings

Mame-Mo

Mame
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Location
Austin Texas
USDA Zone
8B
I’m in central Texas and I have some itoigawa and kishu cuttings. They seem to root relatively easily in organic soil but I was curious what I should plant them in to maximize growth after rooting. I’m sure there are plenty of varying opinions, but I would appreciate feedback on other’s experiences.
 
All my rooted cuttings go straight into the same mix I use for all the plants, including bonsai in pots. I can't see any sense in making things more complicated with different soil for every size or species. Different soil requires different watering, fertilizing, etc. Mine are all in the same so they all get similar care and treatment which seems to work for me.
When I want more growth I put them into a larger pot or often put one pot with the tree into a larger pot filled with soil or stones to give them extra root run. Whatever you do J. chinensis is slow to get going for the first couple of years but takes off after that if given the opportunity.
 
I've rooted both itoigawa and kishu cuttings ranging from finger length all the way up to forearm length into:

- pure pumice + pure lava
- pure pumice
- pumice + lava + akadama

With a very high success rate. My best results that give me the most momentum after rooting has been in those 8" thunder group wash baskets, I like a (fist-sized) seedling pot size volume as a minimum, but I've had success into 24X trays and 72X trays as well. I suspect perlite will also work well but I haven't tried it.

I you want to dramatically increase your success rate, soil choices are only one piece of the puzzle. Using bottom heat (85F / 29C) and automatic misting (not to water, but to maintain humidity) in a greenhouse or mini greenhouse or similar will potentially make an even bigger difference in success rate and especially rate of rooting than soil choice.

One of my mentors, @JEads of Left Coast Bonsai, told me that bottom heat can make the difference between rooting in "6 months" versus "6 to 8 weeks", and I personally found this to be quite true after trying both methods on itoigawa, kishu, and also juniper cuttings of non-chinensis species (j. occidentalis and a couple others). The bottom heating effect is less dramatic for cuttings started during the summer if you have a hot summer.

If you have access to a very large plant, I urge you to try immersing rather large cuttings (eg: forearm length), the results may surprise/astound you.
 
I actually have an itoigawa I bought as a mother plant from John lol. Getting them to root hasnt been a problem, I’m just curious how to get them growing quickly after they root and what medium might facilitate that. I suspect a more airy mix like pumice with some light organics might help. I did do a 5-6” kishu cutting last year that I just stuck in a pot to see what would happen and was clearly a lot better way to do it that the tiny cuttings I’ve been doing. It started out bigger than what I’ve gotten some other cuttings to grow in year. Maybe I should try air layers too. Do you use the heating pad outdoors? I’ve never used one but I live in a hot climate so it always seemed slightly unnecessary, but I will definitely try if it increases success.
 
I use heating pads outdoors (both open to elements and inside mini greenhouses). I've used them in a garage grow tent as well, but outdoor greenhouses tended to be much better for juniper than grow tents (regardless of season).

I'm happy with lava/pumice mixes in my setups, but honestly, I want to be careful in calling my setup "the best" and would recommend generating as many similar cuttings as possible and then experimenting with various media combinations because there are sooo many variables at play. Your climate/microclimate is one of them, but so are things like the containers you use, and also your lifestyle. By lifestyle, I'm really talking about how often you're willing to water in dry/hot parts of the year, which I believe you may sometimes have in Austin. As someone who works from home and mostly limits out-of-state travel to the autumn and winter, I am willing to be glued to my garden through most of the summer and so while I have a wonderful time with itoigawa/kishu in mesh baskets with sometimes high lava content, you may find it a headache.

Hope this gives you some parameters to work with.. I'm very curious what works best for someone in Austin using what are likely the exact same genetics as I have :)
 
Oh also, speaking of John's mother plants, a really neat technique he has recommended to try is where you pre-shari and pre-wire longer running branches and do this work long before you set up any air layers. That way you can use the mother plant as an accelerator for a little bit of trunk development and live vein extrusion/inflation, then come in and choose an ideal position/angle to layer later on.
 
Oh also, speaking of John's mother plants, a really neat technique he has recommended to try is where you pre-shari and pre-wire longer running branches and do this work long before you set up any air layers. That way you can use the mother plant as an accelerator for a little bit of trunk development and live vein extrusion/inflation, then come in and choose an ideal position/angle to layer later on.
That is a great idea! I have two itoigawa from him and I am almost certain they are the same variety, but the mother plant is much less vibrant and I can’t figure out why. Do you keep yours in full sun? I’m starting to think that there is some sort of light issue, the other one I have that gets more aggressive sun has a lovely color.

Unfortunately extreme heat is a constant for most of the year but I’m lucky to be able to stay around my place most of the time. I’m starting to favor Japanese’s black pine because they seem to deal with it better. I actually just bought 3 more seedlings from John. That isn’t to say the junipers struggle, but they do stress a tiny bit. Funnily enough, I got at least one or two other people from the club to buy itoigawa mothers from him so there will probably be quite a few Eads itoigawa in Austin in the years to come.
 
I did do a 5-6” kishu cutting last year that I just stuck in a pot to see what would happen and was clearly a lot better way to do it that the tiny cuttings I’ve been doing. It started out bigger than what I’ve gotten some other cuttings to grow in year. Maybe I should try air layers too. Do you use the heating pad outdoors? I’ve never used one but I live in a hot climate so it always seemed slightly unnecessary, but I will definitely try if it increases success.
These are tactics I have adopted with shimpaku here.
I generally root long, thin runners of new growth up to 12 inches long. These definitely grow better after transplant than the tiny cuttings which can take several years to even start to grow.
I use the long rooted cuttings to wire and bend&twist to create wild looking juniper trunks.
More recently I've tried wiring the long shoots in situ on the parent plant than allow them to grow for a year or 2 before layering them. That's a slower way to get plants but saves the problem of rooting a cutting that breaks at the first wiring. Trunks seem to develop and thicken quicker with the parent to support them but not sure yet whether that is lost again during the layering process.

I don't have bottom heat here so rooting can be slow depending on the time of year. Bottom heat allows the root zone to be just a few deg warmer than the top which I understand is the best conditions for root formation. Should work just as well outdoors as indoors.
 
That is a great idea! I have two itoigawa from him and I am almost certain they are the same variety, but the mother plant is much less vibrant and I can’t figure out why. Do you keep yours in full sun? I’m starting to think that there is some sort of light issue, the other one I have that gets more aggressive sun has a lovely color.

Unfortunately extreme heat is a constant for most of the year but I’m lucky to be able to stay around my place most of the time. I’m starting to favor Japanese’s black pine because they seem to deal with it better. I actually just bought 3 more seedlings from John. That isn’t to say the junipers struggle, but they do stress a tiny bit. Funnily enough, I got at least one or two other people from the club to buy itoigawa mothers from him so there will probably be quite a few Eads itoigawa in Austin in the years to come.

Last year, the pacific northwest was a bit of a experimental laboratory for extreme heat and we hit some records that exceeded even what Texas gets. I do much of my growing on a large, south-facing deck. It is mostly unobstructed from sun in the summer and is up against a wall of light colored siding along with very large windows and sliding door glass that reflect light back on the deck, so things get intense. With my cooking temperature sensor, I measured some insane temperatures on various surfaces, well in excess of ambient (which hit 116F / 46.6C a couple times).

In this environment, I found that most of my conifers thrived really well, but I was able to keep up with watering.

What I put in the roasting oven and did well: all except smallest junipers, JBP, scots pine, lodgepole pine, shore pine, korean pine
What I sheltered under an awning for the hottest parts of the day "just in case": JWP, western hemlock, lawson cypress (chamaecyparis lawsoniana), some smaller juniper material (cuttings of itoigawa, kishu, western juniper, etc).
What showed some heat damage within just a day or two: Subalpine fir
What showed some heat damage later: Bristlecone pine
What did badly overall and showed stress: White spruce. I'm starting to think I may have the wrong type of "nanoclimate" for this, even if one could grow it somewhere else in my neighborhood.

Interesting thing with all these species, they all surged with growth during this period of weeks, the junipers too. Note that all my junipers were in free-draining media.

Similar to your observation, I find that the trees that are in the corner of the deck with the most sun (i.e. extra couple hours of sun relative to the ones closest to the wall) by far have the most lovely color (as you say) and texture (for the pines in particular, a firm plasticky shiny texture).

It's my personal belief that free-draining media (in contrast to soggy retentive media) allows trees to draw water more effortlessly in order to cool themselves. It seems true that this comes with the cost of more frequent watering/monitoring, but that the ease with which trees can pull on that water makes it worth it. I've noticed that regardless of species, tree type, OR sun exposure levels, soggy retentive soils yield difficulty in self-cooling and stress in extreme heat. This is just anecdata/theories though. Driving around Oregon and looking at coniferous tree+shrub grow ops and also looking at tree farms similar to @JEads operation, you see a lot of trees in full-day, full sun, even starting from fairly small material sometimes. IMO really what development-stage growers should be figuring out how to do is how to keep trees at optimal cooling rates so they can keep vigor high and actually take advantage of heat waves, at least prior to going into a bonsai pot when things get a bit more sensitive.

Also during last year's crazy multiple heat waves, I discovered that my cottonwoods (from yamadori to small cuttings) should be on the sunny deck with my conifers. IMO, Cottonwood is borderline immortal and laughs at stress. Try a populus species if you can water often!
 
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