EUROPEAN BEECH (red cultivar)

KiwiPlantGuy

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Thank you Brian, I have read all about your beech and found it very helpful, though I have not attempted the fall defoliation yet. I was trying to discern if Charles is essentially performing a less extreme version, and what the reason for the fall timing is vs spring, which is what I have seen others recommend (when not defoliating). @KiwiPlantGuy do you also defoliate along with removing terminal buds?

Hi Zach,
I didn’t defoliate this as only repotted last winter (late fall here in NZ), and didn’t want to risk beating up the tree anymore. I too read @Brian Van Fleet blog, and thought it looked good so tried it. I figure the last 30 odd days pre frost gives the tree time to put energy into new buds, rather forcing in the spring. Also bear in mind my winters are mild (frosts and no snow- growing season 8 months etc)
Charles
 

MACH5

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A few weeks back, this tree was leaf cut taking about 3/4 of each leaf out to induce a second flush. Below is the result of such procedure.

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Two days ago it had all the wire taken off except for a couple of branches. Below is a photo of the copper beech today sporting its usual red tinted green summer foliage. I am really liking the simple, gentle nature of this tree.

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barrosinc

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A few weeks back, this tree was leaf cut taking about 3/4 of each leaf out to induce a second flush. Below is the result of such procedure.
Is that something that you can do every year?
 

JudyB

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Yes I would say so. It reduces significantly the amount of food the tree can produce so it activates a second flush to replace what was lost.
This tree was always very vigorous too, I bet it would not be a problem to do a heavier defoliation either. But not really necessary with what you are doing.
 

AlainK

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Defoliating a European beech is a very controversial topic :D

I've done it on the green, plain species with success, even twice in the season one year : smaller leaves. But not everybody agrees with that.

If you ever do it, post pictures after it has nice, new leaves to cut short a lengthy discussion... ;)
 

erb.75

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amen ??

can i please ask how high the lowest branch is from the soil?

I am asking because, if i may, i think a lot of people (myself included) who might come across a much younger version of this trunk at a nursery would doubt their ability to make great artistic use of that lowest section of the trunk (especially if it was all that was in the pot at the time!). Looking back to @JudyB ’s thread, it seems like it took great vision to see the changes and developments she made! To my young eye, the middle and upper trunk is an extraordinary example of a masterfully executed design that really allows the material’s inherent qualities to shine forth, as expected from @JudyB and you of course!

love this tree!!
amen
 

MACH5

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Early winter update. This is the second styling work I have done since I acquired the tree a year ago. It is now set for next spring's flush. It will also be repotted at that time addressing some of surface roots which are either not in ideal places or in need to be shortened.
 

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KiwiPlantGuy

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Early winter update. This is the second styling work I have done since I acquired the tree a year ago. It is now set for next spring's flush. It will also be repotted at that time addressing some of surface roots which are either not in ideal places or in need to be shortened.

Hi Sergio,
So after my previous message I have observed that all of the buds behind the terminal bud developed and became well ramified in the Spring. So my 4-5 buds all had their new growth cut to 2 leaves like you did, and now I am receiving a second flush your Xmas. Now I have to learn how to balance growth better. Eg. In the fall it forces the tree to grow a bit more before Winter. Sorry I am repeating myself.
I wonder if you have tried this on your Fagus crenata, or is it too late (cold snowy winter) to try a few branches up top to see what your growth response will be in Spring? It is just I can see this possibly ramifying even more.
Watching with excitement as your wiring and branch selection are the best deciduous bonsai grower out there. Much to learn,
Charles
 

MACH5

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She is looking so happy and gorgeous. The apex looks solid now too.


Thanks Juds! After seeing the apex development I went ahead and made a big cut further shifting the direction of the apex towards the left. I know you had made mention of the slingshot apex which I did agree on. Loving this tree for its simplicity and elegance. I also like how vigorous and strong it is.
 

JudyB

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Thanks Juds! After seeing the apex development I went ahead and made a big cut further shifting the direction of the apex towards the left. I know you had made mention of the slingshot apex which I did agree on. Loving this tree for its simplicity and elegance. I also like how vigorous and strong it is.
It is a great decision, the tree finally looks balanced at the top now.
 

MACH5

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Hi Sergio,
So after my previous message I have observed that all of the buds behind the terminal bud developed and became well ramified in the Spring. So my 4-5 buds all had their new growth cut to 2 leaves like you did, and now I am receiving a second flush your Xmas. Now I have to learn how to balance growth better. Eg. In the fall it forces the tree to grow a bit more before Winter. Sorry I am repeating myself.
I wonder if you have tried this on your Fagus crenata, or is it too late (cold snowy winter) to try a few branches up top to see what your growth response will be in Spring? It is just I can see this possibly ramifying even more.
Watching with excitement as your wiring and branch selection are the best deciduous bonsai grower out there. Much to learn,
Charles


Thanks Charles! That's great to hear with your success on beech! Please keep sharing your findings. Exciting and intriguing species! On my Japanese beech I do typically cut off all strong tips except on the weakest branches about 3 months before bud brake which in my area is very late April into May. This gives the tree time to reallocate resources balancing its energy and help smaller, weaker buds develop. Now, whether doing this even earlier such as in the fall does make a bigger impact I do not know.

I have experimented with cutting back in midsummer a strong branch leaving only very tiny, almost imperceptible buds which thereafter developed well the following year. But, I tried again the same thing on another equally strong branch and it died back completely. So the experiment was inconclusive although I keep trying different things and see the response. Maples are much more predictable. Not so with Japanese beech. These guys have a bit of a mind of their own. Tricky species to handle even in expert hands.

I will try next year to cut off all strong tips in the fall rather than late winter and compare results.


EDIT: On the weakest branches I let them develop until the leaves harden off and then cut them back lightly. A too aggressive approach on these branches will lead to further weakening and eventual death.
 
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KiwiPlantGuy

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Hi Sergio,
Yep I will start a thread soon of my Fagus sylvatica purpurea, and tag you etc.
Wow , didn’t realise that Fagus crennata was sooo different, your cold winters with loads of snow obviously now thinking would create this die-back problem which I wouldn’t experience with frosts and sprinkling of snow 😁😱.
Good luck with your Fagus, and I always enjoy your wiring skills as I learn a lot from the pros on this site.
Charles
 

MACH5

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Hi Sergio,
Yep I will start a thread soon of my Fagus sylvatica purpurea, and tag you etc.
Wow , didn’t realise that Fagus crennata was sooo different, your cold winters with loads of snow obviously now thinking would create this die-back problem which I wouldn’t experience with frosts and sprinkling of snow 😁😱.
Good luck with your Fagus, and I always enjoy your wiring skills as I learn a lot from the pros on this site.
Charles


Thanks again Charles. Look forward to your thread! Yes thus far in my experience they are different mainly in overall vigor. Sylvatica is easier to develop than crenata. Crenata can be touchy.
 
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