Fuller's Earth FUBAR

[ShadyStump]

I picked up a couple bags oof SafeTSorb the other day for repotting my tropical/indoor wintering treea, but then some one pointed out that I had grabbed the Fuller's earth stuff because I was totally not paying any attention to what I was doing at all.
All I've used it for so far are some ficus benjamina, mixing it with coco coir. I figure it can only do so much damage there, but I've got ALLOT of this stuff left, and have lost the receipt so can't return the second bag.

If I use this on gardenias, rosemary, p. afra, etc. am I in trouble or just looking at repotting all over again next year before it breaks down too much?
It's not the only thing in the pot. It would be mixed with coco coir or peat depending on the tree, maybe a bit of mulch, perlite or sand. It would never be exposed to freezes except excess dry in storage.

Thanks!

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

What does the bag label say it is?
Fuller's Earth can be any of several clay types; bentonite or palygorskite, or attapulgite. Clays generally used to absorb liquids, in chemical applications, fullers earth is used to absorb color out of oil solutions, to clarify oils for oil paints, or solvents. Fullers earth is used to absorb oil, grease and pesticide spills and powdered to serve as a carrier for pesticides. Usually Fullers Earth is not calcined, meaning it has not been fired for hardness. This means it will turn to mush as soon as it absorbs water or oil.

Generally Fullers Earth is not acceptable as a potting media because it is a clay, that will dissolve to fine clay, it has no structure. Turface is a clay, but it has been fired in a fashion similar to brick, and will retain its structure without turning to mush after absorbing water, or oil.

Fullers Earth is completely different from Diatomaceous Earth. The Oil Dry product Napa Part number 8822 is crushed Diatomaceous Earth, which is the fossilized silicon based exoskeletons of diatoms. Chemically and structurally quite different than fullers earth. Being fossilized, the DE will hold its structure, and its structure is very porous. Napa sells several different oil absorbing products. Only part number 8822 is useful as potting media.

Well, is touted as useful. I personally don't use 8822 because the particle size is too fine. I used to be able to get a larger particle size of DE, but lost that source. I am looking for a new source. Right now I use pumice and akadama, or pumice and kanuma. That is it, a simple mix.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

There was a small fine particle brand of Pumice called Dry Stall, intended as an absorbent to be used in stables for livestock. The small particle size of the Dry Stall pumice, was an ideal match for the small particle size of Napa 8822 DE. the two in combination made a great blend for smaller or shallow pots. Tremendous water storage.

But like I said, too fine a particle size. I prefer a product with 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch particles, or even a little larger. The 8822 and the Dry Stall brand pumice were closer to 1/16 inch.

 

[ShadyStump]

Calcined Montmorillonite clay. I've read here about others using it, but didn't take my time and actually familiarize myself with it before going out that day, like a schmuck, and just grabbed it when I saw it.
It's held up fine so far the past couple days, I just know it's not going to hold up like the 8822 or similar DE, and particularly for stuff that likes wet feet and acidic soil.
I just don't know by how much.

This stuff is about 1/16 to 1/8 size, which is fine for most of my concerns right now. I've looked around town for the Dry Stall, but despite being surrounded by ranch country and only an hour away from the PBRA hall of Fame, I haven't been able to find it yet.