Ground Grown JBP Transplanting


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Central Sacramento Valley
Hiya! Picked up these two trees a few weeks ago during the final Lotus Bonsai dig at Western Tree in Oroville. They both came straight from the ground and, normally, this event would have included instruction on root reduction and transplanting into flats. However, the previous day's diggers used up all of the repotting materials, so Scott and Bolet sent us home with some flats and a little instruction. I did talk to Scott about how much of the root mass to reduce and feel confident that I did that work properly, but now, two weeks later, I am wondering if I should also reduce some foliage.

On a juniper I would not remove much foliage. On deciduous, I would remove quite a bit (and did with the trident I picked up).

But I have not worked with a JBP straight out of the ground like this. I know there are a few branches I will want to completely remove and also outer foliage on keeper branches. Just not sure what best practices are.

I sent Bolet and Scott an email to ask, but also wanted to check the BNut braintrust. Anyone have experience and advice here?

Perhaps also important to note that these have greened up quite a bit just in the last two weeks.

Am I excited to have gotten my hands on this material. I did not think I would ever be able to afford large trunks like this and have been concentrating my efforts on much smaller pines. These were a steal and I am looking forward to working with them.


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I don't have much in the way of advice but wanted to say they are some incredible material. I'm currently in your former 'state' - thinking it's unlikely I'll ever be able to afford such base material; hopefully some day I'll be posting with the same excitement of finding something similar. šŸ˜€
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Scott from Lotus Bonsai tells me I should leave all foliage on until the tree recovers and begins to show new growth.

Still interested in your input if you have experience here. Thanks!
I wouldn't remove any foliage until summer. Treat it like a repot and let the tree guide the dance. Work on it in proportion to how it responds this spring. I'd likely go in this summer and needle pluck to get light into the interior after they've recovered a little.

A local grow operation doesn't needle pluck their jbp after collection. They're just balls of needles right now.
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Seems JBP transplant can still work with variations in technique.
The advice from the growers obviously works or they would not be doing it and recommending it.
I usually try to identify a few redundant branches to remove at transplant. That seems to also work in well over 90% of JBP transplants here.
The key seems to be to retain a good proportion of strong growing tips to maintain sap flow and provide nutrients back to the new emerging roots.

Conifers are much slower to re-establish after transplant than deciduous. It usually takes at least 12 months before there's significant strong roots on older transplants. Some trees take a couple of years before we can do significant work on the branches. Younger, vigorous seedlings are entirely different and are usually able to cope with significant root and top reduction and are often growing well after just a few weeks.
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