Help with Old Maple

tkosha

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Merrimsck, NH
USDA Zone
5
I have an old maple that has lost its way. What I would like to know is if I were to radically prune it... well below the current canopy... will that force it to bud from "old wood" or would I be killing it - not too softly???

I'm trying to post a photo of the tree but the uploader doesn't seem to want to work :mad:
 
maples will back bud on old wood. Especially if they are healthy.
 
Not the best time to chop right now, though, particularly if the tree is old and, perhaps, not healthy. Keep trying to post pics...there may be other options other then chopping it back to a stump, and the tree's health may warrant being more cautious.
 
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Not the best time to chop right now, though, particularly if the tree is old and, perhaps, not healthy. Keep trying to post pics...there may be other options other then chopping it back to a stump, and the tree's health may warrant being more cautious.

From my perspective this is a great time to chop it. It has hardened foliage now, so removing it will deliver a very strong stimulus to back bud. Those back buds will be sprouts and new leaves in 6 weeks, give or take, and so will have ample time to grow and harden before cold weather of late fall.

Esthetically, I agree there may be better alternatives than a chop. Simple hard pruning will do a lot toward restoring the tree's vitality without making a wild broom out of it.
 
From my perspective this is a great time to chop it. It has hardened foliage now, so removing it will deliver a very strong stimulus to back bud. Those back buds will be sprouts and new leaves in 6 weeks, give or take, and so will have ample time to grow and harden before cold weather of late fall.

Esthetically, I agree there may be better alternatives than a chop. Simple hard pruning will do a lot toward restoring the tree's vitality without making a wild broom out of it.

How do know the tree has growth that has hardened off? With the strange weather everyone, at least in N. America, has been having, I wouldn't assume anything. Personally, I'm reluctant to chop drastically except late winter, right as the tree is leaving dormancy, as I feel this is when the tree has the most stored energy. And, along these lines, how do you know the tree is healthy enough to respond well to a trunk chop right now? We don't know where the poster resides, and we don't know the condition of the tree, so I wouldn't recommend a chop at the moment.
 
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How do know the tree has growth that has hardened off? With the strange weather everyone, at least in N. America, has been having, I wouldn't assume anything. Personally, I'm reluctant to chop drastically except late winter, right as the tree is leaving dormancy, as I feel this is when the tree has the most stored energy. And, along these lines, how do you know the tree is healthy enough to respond well to a trunk chop right now? We don't know where the poster resides, and we don't know the condition of the tree, so I wouldn't recommend a chop at the moment.

I don't know that it has hardened off, but the time for it is not far away anywhere that maples grow (in the northern hemisphere). But you are the one who was so sure it is too late.

Certainly the tree has a high level of stored energy during dormancy, but it doesn't go to zero as soon as leaves come out, but once they do, more energy as photosynthate sugars are available. Consider that one can totally defoliate trees and they don't die: what is different about this than chopping off everything?

Lastly, I have no idea of the health of the tree. However, 'lost its way' is a rather bizzarre way to describe a sick tree - sounds to me like it has turned into an esthetic mess. I am just inferring from the poster's choice of words.

So, I am not sure which is best, but I'm sticking with my answer, regardless. Your argument is that just before bud swell is best. Mine is that anytime during the growth season that leaves enought time for hardened growth before frost is good because of the backbudding stimulus. I think this is open to further examination but, for the reasons I have given, right now isn't too late.
 
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But you are the one who was so sure it is too late.

QUOTE]

I didn't say this:). I said it wasn't the best time, and not knowing the location of the tree/poster or the condition of the tree, I still stand by what I said. Hopefully, the OP will flesh things out a bit so that one of us might actually help him/her.
 
Thank-you everyone with the responses!!! Here is my best to respond to the questions

I cannot upload :mad:

Here are links to the picture on google drive

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0-9VKoNWiTVempFMlpMQVNYVVE/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0-9VKoNWiTVemg3UW9zUjJBSjQ/edit?usp=sharing

I root pruned the tree last spring. The tree is in fair to good health. I had some die back on the rear of the tree after the root prune. When I stated lost its way I meant it is an esthetic mess. I live in New Hampshire... Zone 5. It has been leafed out for 4-6 weeks now.

The red lines on my pictures represent the area where I would prune back to. Not necessarily the actual pruning sight.
 
Thanks Dario. I wouldn't cut this back, it looks sparce, if not weak. Get it into as much sun as is safe, feed it hard this year (weekly!), and next spring just as buds are swelling would be a better time to cut it back. Then, yes, cutting it back to primary branches will help you compact the design with good back-budding.
 
This tree will be a very nice piece if you can get it healthy and compacted. It has great interest at the base for me.
I would feed this tree well, maybe even use a slow release pellet like osmocote as well as a weekly feed, it does need to build up some strength. What type of soil is it in?

I wish you luck with it.
You can go to your personal profile, and update your location, so it will show up with your posts. That will help everyone to help you.
 
Yes I agree as well. It has a nice interesting base and clump style maples are not all that common. The first thing as already mentioned is getting the tree healthy again. Have you inspected the roots by any chance?

I personally would end up making a much shorter design out of it.
 
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