In case you haven't heard--Cold returning

[Dav4]

Just hope one of those nights doesn't go clear/calm and the temperature drops to 20.

Generally I've noted that significant damage to most hardy trees begins at about 28/29 F (once they've started to leaf out). At those temps the damage is generally minor if the temps are that low for only a couple of hours. But if it's that cold all night, or it goes lower...watch out.

I remember a night like that in SE MA maybe a decade ago in early May. It was forecast to fall into the upper 20's, but dropped to 18 F by daybreak. We had an old mulberry tree in the back yard, probably 35' tall by 40' wide...every single leaf on it turned black and fell off within a few days. It pushed a second set of leaves a few weeks later and was no worse for wear, but I'm very glad I stuffed all my trees into the garage for that night.

 

[Cypress187]

I don't really want to hear from bullies on EITHER Side of the argument.

There are no sides or argument, only the truth.

 

[sorce]

Smoother than a fresh jar of Skippy!

Sorce

 

[GrimLore]

I remember a night like that in SE MA maybe a decade ago in early May. It was forecast to fall into the upper 20's, but dropped to 18 F by daybreak. We had an old mulberry tree in the back yard, probably 35' tall by 40' wide...every single leaf on it turned black and fell off within a few days. It pushed a second set of leaves a few weeks later and was no worse for wear, but I'm very glad I stuffed all my trees into the garage for that night.

My Wife reminded me of that happening to a landscape Mulberry, Black Cherry, and a Black Walnut one year that escaped my recollection at my last post. She did point out though it didn't seem to bother anything else except for early blooming tubers. I am happy you did protect them as well - Always like seeing them.

Grimmy

 

[coh]

Ultimately...your trees, protect them as you choose (or choose not). Best advice I can give, get a min/max thermometer and keep it with your trees. That way you can evaluate how well the weather forecasts relate to your backyard (everyone has their own distinct microclimate), and can also evaluate at what temperature different species are damaged.

When we had that really warm winter a few years ago (was it 2012? Can't remember), we had a week of temps in the 80s in March. Everything in the landscape was leafed out by early April. We then had a series of 3...yep 3...deep freezes each spaced a couple of weeks apart, the last one was in early or mid May. Each time the temp got down to the low 20s. There was enough time between each freeze for new growth to start. So most things planted in the ground had their new growth completely destroyed 3 times. To my amazement everything survived, including small/weak trees I'd planted in the ground the previous year. Those trees had the benefit of an extended root system in the ground (and the ground protected the roots from the cold). I don't think most potted trees would have survived.

 

[AaronThomas]

Wow... I really do miss New York but I don't miss those April cold spells with snow. By now I'd was praying for sun..... careful what ya wish for. Now I pray for rain, clouds, fog, night... anything to block the damn sun. We has a cold spell here the last few days. Tonight it will be 39 and 80 during the day.
Hang in there ya'll! Springs almost here!

 

[rockm]

There are no sides or argument, only the truth.

 

[Waltron]

I've got my recently collected trees in a makeshift greenhouse out of old framed windows, so far its been working well, I keep a temp and humidity monitor in there. its 70 degrees in there right now, while the outside temp is 45. yesterday it was warm and raining, I had the top open all day and night, close when then weather changes. one thing I've been messing with is putting piping hot water in glass bottles late at night, the glass absorbs the heat and actually warms for longer than you would think. keeping the bottles open raises the humidity in the enclosure, keeping them closed holds the heat for longer. (80 degrees inside while 30 degrees outside, and 99% humidity.. until it freezes :0) I also stuff extra unused black smart pots in there, they absorb heat and water raising humidity as well. I ordered a kerosene heater supposedly designed for greenhouses,( turns out there is no efficient battery powered heaters out there) its made in the UK so I wont receive it until I dont even need it, im curious about the fumes, but my greenhouse is vented by design.

2/4 hornbeam in the enclosure are starting to leaf, 2 have have buds on the verge that are very swollen. 2 other hornbeam are outside with no protection.. they are both on the verge of popping buds. further ahead than the rest of their brethren in the woods..

 

[rockm]

Ultimately...your trees, protect them as you choose (or choose not). Best advice I can give, get a min/max thermometer and keep it with your trees. That way you can evaluate how well the weather forecasts relate to your backyard (everyone has their own distinct microclimate), and can also evaluate at what temperature different species are damaged.

When we had that really warm winter a few years ago (was it 2012? Can't remember), we had a week of temps in the 80s in March. Everything in the landscape was leafed out by early April. We then had a series of 3...yep 3...deep freezes each spaced a couple of weeks apart, the last one was in early or mid May. Each time the temp got down to the low 20s. There was enough time between each freeze for new growth to start. So most things planted in the ground had their new growth completely destroyed 3 times. To my amazement everything survived, including small/weak trees I'd planted in the ground the previous year. Those trees had the benefit of an extended root system in the ground (and the ground protected the roots from the cold). I don't think most potted trees would have survived.

Many of my trees are not native to Va., but to areas a lot further south, like La. and Tex. Cedar elm, live oak, and La.-collected Bald cypress. Back when Bill Cody and company were pioneering using cedar elm for bonsai down in Texas in the 80's, they left some collected trees out on their benches before a cold snap of two days or so when nighttime temps slid into the high 20s. Mortality rates were 80 percent for those left on benches. I know CE is quite winter hardy if roots are protected and they're not in leaf, not so sure about that when they've got leaves and are growing. True for BC, live oak and a few others --even local Carolina hornbeam.

 

[Dav4]

I remember a night like that in SE MA maybe a decade ago in early May. It was forecast to fall into the upper 20's, but dropped to 18 F by daybreak. We had an old mulberry tree in the back yard, probably 35' tall by 40' wide...every single leaf on it turned black and fell off within a few days. It pushed a second set of leaves a few weeks later and was no worse for wear, but I'm very glad I stuffed all my trees into the garage for that night.

Ultimately...your trees, protect them as you choose (or choose not). Best advice I can give, get a min/max thermometer and keep it with your trees. That way you can evaluate how well the weather forecasts relate to your backyard (everyone has their own distinct microclimate), and can also evaluate at what temperature different species are damaged.

When we had that really warm winter a few years ago (was it 2012? Can't remember), we had a week of temps in the 80s in March. Everything in the landscape was leafed out by early April. We then had a series of 3...yep 3...deep freezes each spaced a couple of weeks apart, the last one was in early or mid May. Each time the temp got down to the low 20s. There was enough time between each freeze for new growth to start. So most things planted in the ground had their new growth completely destroyed 3 times. To my amazement everything survived, including small/weak trees I'd planted in the ground the previous year. Those trees had the benefit of an extended root system in the ground (and the ground protected the roots from the cold). I don't think most potted trees would have survived.

Yup, very good advice and something I'd hope everyone in bonsai for the long haul would do. My yard in MA was always colder then the surrounding areas, so I learned quickly that predicted lows in the mid 30's for my area could mean a frost or freeze in my yard by morning. My yard in GA is almost the opposite and I haven't had a frost in April since we moved here in '09'. Still, it's hard to break old habits...lows are predicted to be in the upper 30's in a few days and I'll be watching closely.

 

[M. Frary]

In some ways living here is a blessing in disguise.
No buds even swelling here.
No bonsai shuffle for me yet.

 

[quietobserver]

Yup, very good advice and something I'd hope everyone in bonsai for the long haul would do. My yard in MA was always colder then the surrounding areas, so I learned quickly that predicted lows in the mid 30's for my area could mean a frost or freeze in my yard by morning. My yard in GA is almost the opposite and I haven't had a frost in April since we moved here in '09'. Still, it's hard to break old habits...lows are predicted to be in the upper 30's in a few days and I'll be watching closely.

Same here. Bought some fancy shmancy wireless thermometers awhile back and found out over winter my trees on the ground, huddled against my brick house stayed as much as 8*f warmer for a low than the thermometer sitting at 6' on a bird house 30' from the house. Combo of the brick and the heat sink (earth), and useful bonsai data. I rotated the devices over a couple of weeks to make sure I didn't have inconsisent devices and I didn't. The "official" low per accuweather for my area was either birdhouse temp or slightly warmer by up to 2*.

 

[coh]

Many of my trees are not native to Va., but to areas a lot further south, like La. and Tex. Cedar elm, live oak, and La.-collected Bald cypress. Back when Bill Cody and company were pioneering using cedar elm for bonsai down in Texas in the 80's, they left some collected trees out on their benches before a cold snap of two days or so when nighttime temps slid into the high 20s. Mortality rates were 80 percent for those left on benches. I know CE is quite winter hardy if roots are protected and they're not in leaf, not so sure about that when they've got leaves and are growing. True for BC, live oak and a few others --even local Carolina hornbeam.

Yeah, I'd be very cautious with trees from warmer climates. For instance, in my case the willow oak I got from Jay (Florida) would never be allowed to experience temps below freezing while putting out new growth. Also, a privet from Zach in Louisiana...I let that one freeze during winter but not while it is growing. I'm not sure if those would develop more of a tolerance for the cold with time, but I'm not willing to chance it.

 

[GrimLore]

Yeah, I'd be very cautious with trees from warmer climates. For instance, in my case the willow oak I got from Jay (Florida) would never be allowed to experience temps below freezing while putting out new growth. Also, a privet from Zach in Louisiana...I let that one freeze during winter but not while it is growing. I'm not sure if those would develop more of a tolerance for the cold with time, but I'm not willing to chance it.

I am with you 100 percent on that and so far have been in a spot that I do not need to. Tropicals go inside for the Winter is all. I am fortunate to have an entire room to play with for plants indoors. For the record my Wife asked so I ordered two Live Southern Oak - those will be protected but my "stuff" nah

Grimmy

 

[ColinFraser]

 

[Smoke]

Cold here too. Dipped into the high 60's this last week...brrrr...

 

[michaelj]

Yeah, global warming causes a late freeze, about as much as I can light my grill with a handful of ice cubes.

One of the ways global warming could cause a late freeze is by melting polar ice that creates unstable pockets of warmer than usual air, which then pushes colder air higher into the atmosphere, where it disperses laterally more widely than usual and descends in irregular patterns, causing brief unseasonable cold snaps in those locations. It's counter-intuitive, but unseasonably warm air in very cold places can send blasts of cold fronts in places that normally would not get them at this time of year.

As for how to light your grill with ice cubes, I'd recommend methane hydrate cubes. One would do the trick.

 

[Handsome John]

Wow, seems like the mythic shit Canadian weather is actually better than what all you guys are getting haha i wish i could cross the border and lend a hand moving stuff in and out

 

[JudyB]

the glass absorbs the heat

Actually water is a really good heat sink. So is concrete. Putting concrete blocks in where they catch the sun in the day will help as they retain heat and release it thru the night.

 

[cmeg1]

Approaching my second shuffle,the beauty of small trees. I do have a couple big ones though. I stick under my mobile home and the deep cold frames works great .
I got to Watch putting them under my mobile home though I think that groundhog is waking up , probably very hungry too for green