Japanese Maple #30

bwaynef

Omono
Messages
1,847
Reaction score
2,057
Location
Clemson SC
USDA Zone
8a
Do you know anything about how the base was grown/developed?
 

Walter Pall

Masterpiece
Messages
3,515
Reaction score
18,971
Location
south of Munich, Germany
USDA Zone
7b
Do you know anything about how the base was grown/developed?
Standard in the bonsai nursing business: From a seedling. Let grow for two years and then cut flat at the ground level. Then take the cut off trunk and use as cutting again. A nebari will evolve as it would after air layering.Let grow freely. Then cut off AGAIN at ground level. This time use the base with good nebari. If you are lucky many shoots will grow out of it. in this case it was nine. Let the shoots grow for a year. Then cut back to first or second bud. Then let grow again . After two years apply wire and bend the trunks the way you want them. After this work on it like in regular development. So far this was very skilled gardening work. Now comes the artistic part.

Amateurs should not even think of doing this themselves. One needs many years of experience and thousands of failures to get this right..At every step there will be failurs. The bad ones are discarded. From 1000 seedlings after twenty years only very few will make it to a good bonsai. But certainly most will not be the quality of the presentded one. Only very few in many years will be the quality of my raw material as presented in the thread which s is not the end but the start of very serious development. I plan to finish this within ten years to become a stunning bonsai.
 
Last edited:

Canada Bonsai

Shohin
Messages
435
Reaction score
1,242
Standard in the bonsai nursing business: From a seedling. Let grow for two years and then cut flat at the ground level. Then take the cut off trunk and use as cutting again. A nebari will evolve as it would after air layering.Let grow freely. Then cut off AGAIN at ground level. This time use the base with good nebari. If you are lucky many shoots will grow out of it. in this case it was nine

How far apart are the trunks that are furthest from eachother? 30cm? 20cm?

This tree was almost certainly not developed the way you’re imagining it was
 
Messages
117
Reaction score
98
Location
Western PA
USDA Zone
6a
The process you explained on how the base was developed. Does it have a name and is there any recommended reading on it?
 

dlayton

Mame
Messages
208
Reaction score
206
Location
Northeast Georgia
USDA Zone
9
Walter,
It seems like every where I read, it cautions full defoliation on Japanese maples, yet here you are! Do you mind explaining why that is said, and why you prove that false? If I have missed the explanation in other threads I apologize!

beautiful tree as always!
 

Walter Pall

Masterpiece
Messages
3,515
Reaction score
18,971
Location
south of Munich, Germany
USDA Zone
7b
Walter,
It seems like every where I read, it cautions full defoliation on Japanese maples, yet here you are! Do you mind explaining why that is said, and why you prove that false? If I have missed the explanation in other threads I apologize!

beautiful tree as always!
Ever heard about the hedge pruning method? It sounds cruel, but it is only to make clear that it is NOT the orthodox method, but something very different. Orthodox methods are weakening the trees by pinching very soon and by cutting often. Hedges usually one lets grow out until they are very unsightly and then brutally cuts back. Thus a hedge is first strengthened a lot by letting grow freely and then pushed back very much. As a result it explodes with new buds afterwards and gets very dense. If you do this with maples and in addition increase the shock by totally defoliating you get unseen back budding and multiplying of buds. The maple will get dense very quickly.

Since it was strengthened before the shock it responds very well. Orthodox methods are weakening trees and are for keeping trees the way they are. If you defoliate a weak tree it will not respond well. - that's the answer to your question. My method is for developing trees. So the whole bonsai world uses methods which are for finished trees on trees that they want to develop and have problems.

Mind you, defoliating time is over!!! Don't do it after the end of June!

Methods can be only valued by their results. - long term results - not by what people say about them.
 

dbonsaiw

Omono
Messages
1,545
Reaction score
1,770
Location
New York
USDA Zone
7b
So the whole bonsai world uses methods which are for finished trees on trees that they want to develop and have problems.
Probably the single most difficult aspect of learning the art of bonsai stems from the issue you point out - application/demonstration of techniques that, albeit sound, are not properly suited for the specific stage of development. I have killed and set back many a tree on account of this. It's maddening. Best to thoroughly understand how the tree functions and how it responds to work performed, rather than blindly apply "sound techniques". To be sure, I have seen many a thread attempting a description of the "Walter Pall hedge pruning method" because they admire your trees. What follows is almost always a discussion that the person is not actually using your method and/or is using it incorrectly. You have been kind enough to share multiple progression threads demonstrating your techniques and the results. The trees speak for themselves. The techniques obviously work, but only if employed correctly. Otherwise, we are just mangling trees.
 
Top Bottom