Juniper cuttings

[pmalelis]

Would cuttings struck from mature foliage typically revert back to juvinile foliage? Any benefit to using mature cuttings only Or use anything?

 

[jk_lewis]

Yes. New growth will likely be juvenile. Only time and rest produced mature foliage.

Patience.

 

[pmalelis]

What is my best bet for these cuttings as far as the coming winter? Should I just leave them out to be buried by snow? i dont want to check for roots until atleast a year goes by and I see sure growth. They have been in a cutting medium for a few weeks now.

 

[Vance Wood]

Most of my Shimpaku cuttings continue with mature foliage if I start with thicker cuttings.

 

[Vance Wood]

Would cuttings struck from mature foliage typically revert back to juvinile foliage? Any benefit to using mature cuttings only Or use anything?

Use Mature cuttings, they are tougher and not likely to revert. Juvenile growth may root quicker but the subsequent growth seems to be weaker and take more time.

 

[fore]

Most of my Shimpaku cuttings continue with mature foliage if I start with thicker cuttings.

Like how thick Vance?

 

[Vance Wood]

Like how thick Vance?

Between a pencil and a chop stick.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I left my shimpaku cuttings out, even their first winter, right with the ponderosa pines. They are pretty hardy. Winter the cuttings the same way you would your larger, older junipers. For me this has worked. I have cuttings struck in summer of 3 different years, all were left outside their first winters. They did get some protection, pots set on the ground, under a bench, tarped on 4 sides, some leaves piled on, some snow piled on when we got snow. No heat supplied of any type. Most of the winter the lows were near or above 0F only a few nights were colder. No winter mortalities.

My location is where the Illinois and Wisconsin border drops into Lake Michigan, head 1.5 miles inland, and that's where I'm at. Close enough for some moderation (and extra snow) from Lake Effect.

For what it is worth.

 

[pmalelis]

I left my shimpaku cuttings out, even their first winter, right with the ponderosa pines. They are pretty hardy. Winter the cuttings the same way you would your larger, older junipers. For me this has worked. I have cuttings struck in summer of 3 different years, all were left outside their first winters. They did get some protection, pots set on the ground, under a bench, tarped on 4 sides, some leaves piled on, some snow piled on when we got snow. No heat supplied of any type. Most of the winter the lows were near or above 0F only a few nights were colder. No winter mortalities.

My location is where the Illinois and Wisconsin border drops into Lake Michigan, head 1.5 miles inland, and that's where I'm at. Close enough for some moderation (and extra snow) from Lake Effect.

For what it is worth.

I know all too much about lake effect here near syracuse! Thanks for the info. I may try to make a cover of some type with clear plastic and scrap wood as a frame aswell.

 

[Vance Wood]

I know all too much about lake effect here near syracuse! Thanks for the info. I may try to make a cover of some type with clear plastic and scrap wood as a frame aswell.

Don't start building clear plastic shelters they don't do much. You are better off if you are really scared about what a winter can do is to put things behind bales of straw. It's not the cold it's the drying winds and the sun. Your cuttings if not kept in a green house need to be treated just like their parent trees.

 

[Poink88]

Don't start building clear plastic shelters they don't do much. You are better off if you are really scared about what a winter can do is to put things behind bales of straw. It's not the cold it's the drying winds and the sun...

I've read this here several times and even advised against it and wondering since most nurseries here that I've been to, use plastic tunnels for winter protection. It can also provide protection against winds as you noted. In my case, I use heating cables and I am sure the plastic cover helped retain the warmer air in that area than if there was nothing there at all.

Please note that I do this only a few (maybe 10) days a year when we get deep freeze which is lower than what most of my local trees/plants can handle. ALSO note that it is not for my junipers, rather some semi-deciduous broad leaf.

What am I missing? Maybe my situation/condition is unique?

Thank you.

 

[pmalelis]

Don't start building clear plastic shelters they don't do much. You are better off if you are really scared about what a winter can do is to put things behind bales of straw. It's not the cold it's the drying winds and the sun. Your cuttings if not kept in a green house need to be treated just like their parent trees.

Thanks Vance. There was part of me that asked, why try to overprotect, as there are no plastic shelters in nature.

 

[Poink88]

Thanks Vance. There was part of me that asked, why try to overprotect, as there are no plastic shelters in nature.

Because nature do not use small pots and don't import/transplant/trans locate trees?

 

[pmalelis]

because some of these cuttings were done late summer, does keeping them outside buried in snow still apply? They are in 4" pots of turface

 

[october]

because some of these cuttings were done late summer, does keeping them outside buried in snow still apply? They are in 4" pots of turface

No. Cuttings that were done in late summer have little in any roots. They should not be left out in winter. They need to be in a heated environment. If left out in winter with little or no roots, snow and/or wind could knock them out of the pots. Also, they could freeze.

If they were mine, I would find a place that gets a few hours of filtered sun a day. Mist often and keep temps in the upper 60's degree range. After one year, when they are established, then they should be put into the same care as the parent tree. Even then, protection so that they are not crushed or blown over should be utilized in winter.

Rob

 

[fore]

Hopefully pmalelis won't mind me asking a related question...I'm planning on doing some 4" potted air layers off these Itoigawa whips I recently acquired. If I do it in the spring, will there be enough roots to cut it off before winter? I've read sev. times that pines need more like 2 yrs to root out. But I haven't read anything about junipers....or at least I don't remember lol And then that winter, I have to keep the new roots from freezing right?

Thanks
Chris

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Hopefully pmalelis won't mind me asking a related question...I'm planning on doing some 4" potted air layers off these Itoigawa whips I recently acquired. If I do it in the spring, will there be enough roots to cut it off before winter? I've read sev. times that pines need more like 2 yrs to root out. But I haven't read anything about junipers....or at least I don't remember lol And then that winter, I have to keep the new roots from freezing right?

Thanks
Chris

How thick are the whips you plan to layer? I have rooted pencil-thick Itoigawa cuttings, with enough roots in 6 months to move them from the cutting flat to individual pots.

I take juniper cuttings pretty much all year, with best success in spring and fall. Spring cuttings are usually rooted by fall. Interestingly, fall cuttings are usually rooted by the following fall too, and will stay green for quite a while without roots.

I am running an experiment on a large shimpaku cutting, and have a "control" branch removed at the same time just laying on the ground next to the potted cutting. After 3 weeks, both are still very green.

No winter protection here, but probably necessary up there.

 

[pmalelis]

How thick are the whips you plan to layer? I have rooted pencil-thick Itoigawa cuttings, with enough roots in 6 months to move them from the cutting flat to individual pots.

I take juniper cuttings pretty much all year, with best success in spring and fall. Spring cuttings are usually rooted by fall. Interestingly, fall cuttings are usually rooted by the following fall too, and will stay green for quite a while without roots.

I am running an experiment on a large shimpaku cutting, and have a "control" branch removed at the same time just laying on the ground next to the potted cutting. After 3 weeks, both are still very green.

No winter protection here, but probably necessary up there.

Brian as far as my fall cuttings go, If kept at a constant 65 degrees through winter in my house , would that be my best bet, then move out after risk of frost subsides. They are itoigawa cuttings as well.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I don't think they would survive a winter in your house, that environment is normally too dry.
Do you have any other options? Unheated garage, breezeway, root cellar, local nursery greenhouse?

 

[pmalelis]

I don't think they would survive a winter in your house, that environment is normally too dry.
Do you have any other options? Unheated garage, breezeway, root cellar, local nursery greenhouse?

yes, unheated garage but it is unlit, no windows....