Right now, the only plan I have for it is to grow it out to thicken up the trunk. That’s why I have it in the pond basket. I’ll trim it just enough to ensure there are only two branches coming out of each bifurcation, to avoid creating inverse taper problems down the line, but leave it alone otherwise..Wondering about your design plan for this tree, especially for the trunk?
Cheers
DSD sends
There’s not much cause to worry about roots overheating in my yard. I don’t really have all-day sun anywhere in the yard. The main reason why I have it in a pond basket is so that I can set the basket on the ground and let the roots escape through the bottom into the ground to get some of the benefits of ground growing while maintaining the ability to easily pick it up and move it to the picnic table when I want to work on the branches. That’s my plan anyway. I haven’t gotten around to setting it on the ground to grow yet as I’ve been doing battle (chemical warfare via Roundup herbicide) with a rather invasive wild vine over in the area by the fence that I want to eventually make my bonsai grow-out area.Ok, thanks for the information. In that case, I'd move it out of the pond basket into something more substantial. A couple reasons for this.
Azalea roots are very fine and absolutely don't need root pruning to assist this. The roots also do not respond well be being heated up or dried out, which substantially slows the growth. Finally the roots are more sensitive to freezing temperatures then most. To get the best growth out of the azalea one should use a continuous walled pot, better still, a slightly oversized ceramic pot with good drainage. This move gives you both up and down side protection of the roots.
Pond baskets are for trees that don't possess the root structure of azaleas. I have seen azaleas survive and look good in pond baskets before, especially when these are oversized. However their best growth is stymied for the above causes.
Best of luck!
DSD sends
I’m growing mine in 100% kanuma.I use pond baskets for some of my small azaleas to great effect. I use the same azalea mix, not a bonsai mix, that I use on my azaleas in ceramic or plastic pots. I do over pot a bit in the baskets and all my azaleas are thriving. Just understanding and supplying what the plant needs is paramount. You can use anything, tin cans to tires, as long as it has drainage and a growing mix that works.
I wouldn't say it is an experiment. It is just a choice of containers I have been using for a few years now.@penumbra Yep an oversized basket would definitely help. I’m really interested in this experiment. Wondering if you did a side by side comparison?
My experiment is growing side by side the same cultivars, half in pure kanuma and half in a mix with 2 x bark and 1 x pro mix (peat and perlite)I’m growing mine in 100% kanuma.
I bought a couple of Momo No Haru from Bill V. and he advised against repotting in 100% kanuma.I wouldn't say it is an experiment. It is just a choice of containers I have been using for a few years now.
My experiment is growing side by side the same cultivars, half in pure kanuma and half in a mix with 2 x bark and 1 x pro mix (peat and perlite)
It's still early as they were summer planted but I think the grower's mix & bark is going to win out. Sure is a lot cheaper, but we will see after a full seasons growth.
What substrate mix was Bill using instead?I bought a couple of Momo No Haru from Bill V. and he advised against repotting in 100% kanuma.
I don't think he mentioned a specific substrate. Just advised against moving from a nursery soil to 100% kanuma. I have his email on my work computer. I'll look for it Monday. I left the ones from him in the soil I received them in and they are doing well.What substrate mix was Bill using instead?
I did the same experiment for a total of three years, only with four soil mixes. The 100% Kanuma definitely showed the slowest growth rate. The peat/perlite mix was good for growth thus did well in the study, but we know that it breaks down quickly if repotting is delayed. My experience with bark has told me to just use it for my orchids so it will be interesting to see how you do with it long term.I wouldn't say it is an experiment. It is just a choice of containers I have been using for a few years now.
My experiment is growing side by side the same cultivars, half in pure kanuma and half in a mix with 2 x bark and 1 x pro mix (peat and perlite)
It's still early as they were summer planted but I think the grower's mix & bark is going to win out. Sure is a lot cheaper, but we will see after a full seasons growth.
Interesting. I never use the peat mixes without bark. For growing on I have been doing this for nearly everything I grow for over 30 years. I use some perlite but primarily for rooting and for growing on tropicals.My experience with bark has told me to just use it for my orchids so it will be interesting to see how you do with it long term.