My new Ume

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Oh, and for the record, I didn't see you as criticizing my work. There is just an unfortunate history in these forums of people insisting a tree doesn't belong to an enthusiast unless he has done all the work on it.
 
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Oh, and for the record, I didn't see you as criticizing my work. There is just an unfortunate history in these forums of people insisting a tree doesn't belong to an enthusiast unless he has done all the work on it.


The tree belongs to whoever paid for it. I own a Ford truck because I paid for it. Ford built the truck but I "own" it.




Will
 
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Howdy Chris,

Sounds to me you think that I am criticisizing your work on your tree, sorry if you think that as no I am not, just trying to give you some friendly advice, which is always difficult when only being able to do so using whatever pics are available, as you well know.

Sorry dude, just don't know who Boon is, so that doesn't help, but I have learnt, that 'less is really more', especially with certain tree species, and your beautiful tree looks as tho' it's had a 'bad hair day', with all of those unecessary branches [that burn up so much of the tree's vigour] going every which way, reminds me of the Gorgon's head....LOL.

When I repot my tree [which has been neglected a tad] I shall be wiring the branches giving them a more horizontal feeling, and see what I can do about encouraging shorter branch development.

I've tracked down a source over here where I think that I can buy a deep-pink P.mume from, but in about a months time the greatset bonsai dealer in Holland, should I say Europe, is having there anual Spring sale, 40% discounts, on Japanese trees, so I might get lucky and get me a shohin mume or two, shall let you know.

Hope what I've been writing is proving of some help to you, anyhow I wish you the best of luck,
redroo

Redroo,
Of course I didn't think you were criticizing. Thank you for your input.
 

grog

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Looking forward to seeing this tree next weekend!
 
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Hehe, actually I brought this one to work with me because I have a great south facing window. I will try to remember to bring it home with me.

If you need directions again or anything, let me know.
 
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It's doing quite well although I have never seen it bloom. I grafted three scions from Boon onto it but unfortunately none of them took. I have thinned it out some and wired a few new branches. The top has grown up quite a bit, I want to thicken the new leader considerably. I haven't photographed it lately but may do so tonight.

I've found that the wood is too hard to get much good done with a Dremel tool so I'm looking for a more powerful carving tool. Anyone have any good suggestions that won't require a financing agreement?

Chris
 

TheSteve

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Sears Craftsman all in one cutting tool. 30,000 rpms. Only draw back is it's not variable speed.
 
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Sears Craftsman all in one cutting tool. 30,000 rpms. Only draw back is it's not variable speed.


Woof! The whole tree (not counting the sacrifice leader) is only about 12 inches tall! I need something with a bit finer touch, I think.

Chris
 

grog

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Do you have a compressor that'd drive a small'ish die grinder? That seems like the way to go to me - IF you have the compressor already.
 

tom tynan

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Chris: There are a number of possibilities in general as to why this Prunus Mume has not flowered. In your summer climate it is critical that the tree not dry out - this can happen with high temps, and strong winds. If the pot is too shallow - this can also result in the tree constantly being stressed in the warmer months. You may want to try keeping this on the North side of your garden or in partial shade in the afternoon. My other thought is do you keep this tree indoors all winter or in a cold frame/protected area? Lastly, a good high phosphate fertilizer will help with flower bud set - these should be visible [flower buds] starting in late fall when the leaves drop....good luck....Tom
 

TheSteve

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Woof! The whole tree (not counting the sacrifice leader) is only about 12 inches tall! I need something with a bit finer touch, I think.

Chris
:rolleyes:
wimp. As long as you have a fine touch then the tool is nothing more than a spinning wheel of death.:eek: Small pnuematic die grinders really don't have alot of oomph. When you get into the bigger ones then the air has all the advantage. go out and buy the cutting tool for like sixty bucks and practice on some firewood or something then go after your tree. Hint: use a wire wheel. A wise man showed me this and I'll never go back.;)
 
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Chris: There are a number of possibilities in general as to why this Prunus Mume has not flowered. In your summer climate it is critical that the tree not dry out - this can happen with high temps, and strong winds. If the pot is too shallow - this can also result in the tree constantly being stressed in the warmer months. You may want to try keeping this on the North side of your garden or in partial shade in the afternoon. My other thought is do you keep this tree indoors all winter or in a cold frame/protected area? Lastly, a good high phosphate fertilizer will help with flower bud set - these should be visible [flower buds] starting in late fall when the leaves drop....good luck....Tom

Thanks, Tom. It has gotten quite hot the last couple of years and this year I had decided to keep it in the shade. This winter it was in the shop where the temps moderated at around 35 degrees or so...I had a stock tank heater in the big water butt so that helped a bit.

I will try the higher phosphate fert and see what happens. Would you use this all summer long?

Chris
 

tom tynan

Mame
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Chris: I would use your normal fertilizer; that is, whatever you normally do for your trees - then once a month give a dose of the higher phosphate fertilizer - nothing crazy - follow the directions. Yes..very important not to let these trees dry out or get too stressed - if the leaves drop for any reason during the summer - sure, it will quickly grow another set of leaves - but no flower buds almost guaranteed. Tom
 

bonhe

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Chris: I would use your normal fertilizer; that is, whatever you normally do for your trees - then once a month give a dose of the higher phosphate fertilizer - nothing crazy - follow the directions. Yes..very important not to let these trees dry out or get too stressed - if the leaves drop for any reason during the summer - sure, it will quickly grow another set of leaves - but no flower buds almost guaranteed. Tom

It is a good information. Last summer, I left my ume in the garden East side which only has morning sun. In July, its leaves dried out and dropped off until this February. Luckily, it still had some flowers, but only in one of its branches. This March, I transplanted it into the deeper pot and place it under the landscape tree (it's still receiving the sunlight but less intensive. Besides that, I also sprinkled humic acid granule on the soil surface. Hopefully its leaves will not dry out in Summer. My teacher, Mr. Ota, told me that it was important to change the soil completely to get more flowers for ume (for some reason, ume doesn't like the old soil). Bonhe
 
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John Kirby seems to think that the lighter environment of the new hoop house will get this tree to flower. I'm not so sure, since I have yet to see it produce flower buds. I just reposted the first post, and realized that I don't have any current photos. I'll have to take some when it drops its leaves.
 

ovation22

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Looking forward to seeing an update, Chris. I've got one very similar to this, with the same purple pot and "Made in China" sticker. :) (see first picture)
 
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DJB

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apart from keeping the soil consistently moist during summer and protecting the plant from intense summer heat and drying winds, too much pruning will hinder flower development too. pruning causes the tree to develop leaf buds over flower buds. when working on Mume it is important to spend the first few years developing fine ramification. this is done by pruning to two nodes every time 6 to 8 leaves have hardened off. in two or three years you will have great ramification. now is time to work on flower production. allow new growtgh in spring to grow unhindered until late summer, early autumn. then prune leaving two or three flower buds ( to tie in with the shape of the tree). after flowering, prune to the node below where the flowers were. in spring allow new growth to grow unhindered again. after two or three years of this it is time to repeat the first step and prune to two nodes everytime 6 to 8 leaves have hardened off. thsi will stimulate more leaf growth and back budding. this is uselful to avoid the tree growing out of shape and becomming too leggy
 

Bill S

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tm, Chris isn't around here much, may not get an answer right away.

Is Pegleg Petes still open in your town??
 
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