My pomegranate collection

[bonhe]

I like to share with you one of techniques used a lot for my pomegranate. I call it as " Soft breaking technique". Soft breaking tech is only used for the branches which is not too young or adult. Maybe "teen" ? You can see the color of the branch. When it purple red, it is too young; if it is brown, it is adult.
Why do I have to use this technique? For the shoot is growing too long, I want to slow it down, so the energy of the tree can be diverted to the weaker branch. Instead of prune this strong shoot back, I still keep it, but bend it down through "soft breaking technique", since I don't want to slow down the metabolism system of the tree aggressively at this time of the year.

How do I do that? I use my index fingers and thumbs to hold the branch at lower part and bend it down (same manner while we bend the branch in wiring).


The tree with a lot of new shoots.


Ah, it has some flower buds at this time


Applying the soft breaking technique




Finished.


After 6 hours, I rechecked the tree. No sign of dehydration yet!

Bonhe

 

[milehigh_7]

I like to share with you one of techniques used a lot for my pomegranate. I call it as " Soft breaking technique". Soft breaking tech is only used for the branches which is not too young or adult. Maybe "teen" ? You can see the color of the branch. When it purple red, it is too young; if it is brown, it is adult.
Why do I have to use this technique? For the shoot is growing too long, I want to slow it down, so the energy of the tree can be diverted to the weaker branch. Instead of prune this strong shoot back, I still keep it, but bend it down through "soft breaking technique", since I don't want to slow down the metabolism system of the tree aggressively at this time of the year.

How do I do that? I use my index fingers and thumbs to hold the branch at lower part and bend it down (same manner while we bend the branch in wiring).
View attachment 185724

The tree with a lot of new shoots.


Ah, it has some flower buds at this time


Applying the soft breaking technique




Finished.


After 6 hours, I rechecked the tree. No sign of dehydration yet!

Bonhe

Super interesting! Thanks!

 

[bonhe]

Super interesting! Thanks!

You are welcome, my friend
Bonhe

 

[bonhe]

I need to move this tree to different area this morning. It has flower now.


Because it has a lot of new shoots go upward


I have to use "soft breaking technique" to bring these shoots down


Finish

Bonhe

 

[bonhe]

Yesterday when I presented the “ soft breaking” technique to my teacher and my friend, they are very amazed ?
Bonhe

 

[Clicio]

Why do I have to use this technique? For the shoot is growing too long, I want to slow it down

Thanks for this excellent tip, @bonhe
Please explain a little why this technique is better than simply pruning it back? The energy will be redirected to the weaker branches, this is understood; but do you still need these longer branches getting leggy? What for?

 

[bonhe]

Thanks for this excellent tip, @bonhe
Please explain a little why this technique is better than simply pruning it back? The energy will be redirected to the weaker branches, this is understood; but do you still need these longer branches getting leggy? What for?

Good question Clicio.
When the branch is brought downward, the auxin produced at the top branch will be retained more in that branch instead of transferring down to the lower part of the tree. With the elevation of auxin concentration at that branch, the growth of that branch will be restrained. This will let the weaker branches take off. Besides, the highest part of the bent branch which has less auxin now, will give more new leaf buds closed to the trunk. So far, it will be as same as pruning this branch back. The difference is that the uncut branch still has a lot good leaves for energy production which the pruned branch won't have. This save energy will contribute to the tree to help the tree get stronger before pruning in Fall. These bending down branches will be pruned back in Fall.
Bonhe

 

[Clicio]

The difference is that the uncut branch still has a lot good leaves for energy production which the pruned branch won't have. This save energy will contribute to the tree to help the tree get stronger before pruning in Fall.

Very clear, very useful, very logical.
Thank you for sharing, @bonhe !

 

[bonhe]

This branch was broken by me 3 weeks ago.


Other side. Even though with only one angled live vein, it will be OK!


That branch is still alive


Its end


I want to train this branch as this

Bonhe

 

[bonhe]

This one has so many flower buds at this time. There are 41 totally. More are coming along the season!!!


I will keep only one fruit for it because the tree is small. I can carry the pot in one hand!


It has a fantastic natural dead wood with one live vein.


This live vein is very interesting to be looked at. It reminds me varicose vein !!!


Bonhe

 

[AZbonsai]

Thanks for the tip on the soft break technique. I applied it to this pomegranate. I had to completely remove all branches because it was infested with leaf miners. I treated with systemic and it is growing nicely. I apprecite you sharing your knowledge. Thank you!

Before

After

 

[bonhe]

Thanks for the tip on the soft break technique. I applied it to this pomegranate. I had to completely remove all branches because it was infested with leaf miners. I treated with systemic and it is growing nicely. I apprecite you sharing your knowledge. Thank you!

Not at all AZbonsai.
It looks like you use only pumice, right?
Bonhe

 

[AZbonsai]

For this tree yes I am trying it out it is a first for me.

 

[bonhe]

For this tree yes I am trying it out it is a first for me.

Please let me know if it is OK in the future.. I think your area is much hotter than mine, and I never tried to use pure pumice for pomegranate! How long did you have it in 100% pumice? I see you have misting system.
Thanks
Bonhe

 

[AZbonsai]

I had a very difficult time getting rid of miners...they always attacked new growth on tree. @bonsainut suggested I may have to defoliate and change soil so I did both and it is responding well.
I had a misting system last summer. I was successful in keeping my trees alive but not as healthy due to fungus. I am going to go without misters and just do a straight drip with shade over the top and burlap bags to cover the pots. I will keep you posted.

 

[bonhe]

It is interesting! What kind of soil did you use before?
Bonhe

 

[AZbonsai]

How long did you have it in 100% pumice?

About 2 months now.

 

[AZbonsai]

Akadama, scoria and I believe to much organic material.

 

[my nellie]

Dear @bonhe thank you very much for sharing your techniques and knowledge.
This is greatly appreciated.
I read in another thread of yours that you applied the soft breaking technique to your lagerstroemia, too.
What other species do you think this can be applied?

 

[bonhe]

Dear @bonhe thank you very much for sharing your techniques and knowledge.
This is greatly appreciated.
I read in another thread of yours that you applied the soft breaking technique to your lagerstroemia, too.
What other species do you think this can be applied?

Not at all My Nellie.
I think we can apply this technique on olive, flowering quince, boxwood, ficus.
Bonhe