New stock twin trunk quince

[JudyB]

I agree about redoing the chop on the left trunk. The question here is to which branch.

There are currently two options.

One is the next branch down on the front. This has the advantage of being able to make the chop in the back where it'll be less noticeable. But it moves toward the other trunk, and makes the gap too narrow to my eye. This would necessitate doing this trunk widening/splitting. (I could wire this...it got away from me this summer)

The second is the next (lower) branch that goes off to the left at a big angle. It has the advantage of widening the distance between the trunks, but the con of the chop being problematic. This one starts a good shape with the other trunk, flaring out, and widening the gap. I would bring this one back and start to mirror the movement. This option would alleviate the need to do any trunk splitting I believe.

The twin trunk photos I've studied, look best to me, when the trunks go away from each other, then mirror the movement together. The upper of these branches, may not work in this sense, and the lower may be too far off to the side.

The third option would be to chop, and pick a new branch, perhaps I can get a bud on the knob in between those two branches, that seems to me to be a good height to start from, then I keep the direction change.

Thoughts? (maybe I should start a poll, seems to attract a lot of action here !)

 

[Poink88]

Judy,

How about this trim?
View attachment 28157

Then rotate a bit (maybe 10*) to the right and bend the main/taller branch/trunk at the left -- to the left. A good branch bender/jack like this will do it easily.

As it is, the branch bender is almost useless for bending but all you need is a spacer on the 2 outer hooks to make it work great. If you choose to go this way, let me know and I'll post pics of what I did on mine to make it "functional'.

BTW, I am not sure if I am seeing it right but the plug at the lower left of the pic looks like a hazard and concerns me. Be safe my friend.

 

[fore]

Those benders rip the bark up way to easily. I wouldn't recommend them personally. The masakuni benders sold by Cali Bonsai or Dallas are the easiest to use, less trauma and more radical bends. Too bad they are so spendy.

 

[jk_lewis]

Then rotate a bit (maybe 10*) to the right and bend the main/taller branch/trunk at the left -- to the left. A good branch bender/jack like this will do it easily.

But be careful, one twist too many on that central screw can -- will -- snap a trunk.

 

[Poink88]

Those benders rip the bark up way to easily. I wouldn't recommend them personally. The masakuni benders sold by Cali Bonsai or Dallas are the easiest to use, less trauma and more radical bends. Too bad they are so spendy.

Not if you pad them properly. I use cut up hose or thick leather and they work really well. Having said that, I have not bent a big quince...only Boxwood and Brazilian Raintree with this.

Problem with a branch bender is that you still need to guy wire the branch after. Finding/providing a good spot to anchor the guy wire in this case could be tricky for others though I know I can if I want to.

 

[JudyB]

Dario, looks like the quick and dirty option.
But I think that the section above the left low branch is too straight, and taperless to keep. I will go the slower route, I think and do a chop. These seem to grow fast enough that it won't set me back too much, and I'll have a better tree in the long run.

fore, I think if I do it right, I probably won't need to move the trunks anyway.
thanks!

 

[Poink88]

But be careful, one twist too many on that central screw can -- will -- snap a trunk.

I know this might be true with crabapple but I doubt same applies to quince. Again no experience with quince but on the ones I did...you can feel and hear the tree cracking (which is okay) long before they snap.

 

[Poink88]

Dario, looks like the quick and dirty option.
But I think that the section above the left low branch is too straight, and taperless to keep. I will go the slower route, I think and do a chop. These seem to grow fast enough that it won't set me back too much, and I'll have a better tree in the long run.

Sounds good to me. Good luck!

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I agree about redoing the chop on the left trunk. The question here is to which branch.

There are currently two options.

One is the next branch down on the front. This has the advantage of being able to make the chop in the back where it'll be less noticeable. But it moves toward the other trunk, and makes the gap too narrow to my eye. This would necessitate doing this trunk widening/splitting. (I could wire this...it got away from me this summer)

Without hesitation, this is what I would do...in the spring.

I have been reading up on quinces lately and stumbled on a post Owen Reich wrote, suggesting that wiring them in the growing season is better because they're more flexible.

 

[JudyB]

And which branch would you choose Brian if this was your tree? I think I already know the answer...

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

This is where I'd cut.

Then wire the yellow-circled branch clockwise, and move the branch to the left as the next section of trunk..

 

[coh]

Judy, sorry if this was already posted and I just missed it - but what is the approximate trunk diameter just above the root flare?

Chris

 

[JudyB]

3" - don't think I ever gave dimensions.

Brian, by clockwise, you mean....

That's my chop of choice as well. Better tree in the long run, but I don't understand the clockwise branch? Sorry if I'm being dense with this question.
I wire this guy in the growing season, but am constantly unwiring because of the fast growth.

 

[Poink88]

Another option...I would cut at the red and hope it sprouts at the circled nodes. Fall back will be BVF's cut which can be done if this fails. JMHO.
View attachment 28221

 

[JudyB]

Thanks Dario, I'll probably be doing the chop a bit above those anyway, so as to be safe, and angle it later, so we'll see what happens with those nodes.

Brian, I have looked at this again, and I think my confusion stems from that branch being almost more of a back branch than a side branch. But I see where you are going with that.
Darned 2d!!!

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

In your earlier Post, #12, third photo, the new right apex is wired in clockwise direction. This way you can twist and bend that new shoot clockwise as you move it to the left. It didn't appear to be a back branch, but even it it is, consider the dynamic movement you get in a couple years from a chop there, and wiring the new leader this way.

Look at all the field grown quinces and trident maples that wire more or less finished now, and try to envision where they were trunk chopped decades ago, and where the next section of trunk came from. In many cases its still pretty obvious. Here is an example of trunk chops from a quick search...happens to belong to Hans Vleugels
http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/u3

 

[JudyB]

Very nice, good explanation, and great visual aids. I get it!
Thanks Brian.

 

[tmmason10]

Agreed with Judy, thanks Brian. It's a simple thought but the pictures and breakdown really do help visualize how to approach rougher pieces of stock.

 

[JudyB]

This one is on my bench right now. Looking at chopping back to the next branch down on the left trunk, on the front side. I think that is the right thing, as the chop now is UUUUGLY.

I notice that the wounds on this tree don't act in the same manner as most of my trees. I must be doing something wrong when I do these cuts. They don't seem to form a callus around the chop.
I would like to know if there is a trick to doing chops on this, so I can do this one correctly. Perhaps these just don't heal as easily as most of the trees I'm used to. Even the one behind the new right trunk leader isn't really healing, although it has lots of good growth around it.

I will have to cut this with a lopper or saw, too big for concave cutters...

 

[bonsaibp]

This one is on my bench right now. Looking at chopping back to the next branch down on the left trunk, on the front side. I think that is the right thing, as the chop now is UUUUGLY.

I notice that the wounds on this tree don't act in the same manner as most of my trees. I must be doing something wrong when I do these cuts. They don't seem to form a callus around the chop.
I would like to know if there is a trick to doing chops on this, so I can do this one correctly. Perhaps these just don't heal as easily as most of the trees I'm used to. Even the one behind the new right trunk leader isn't really healing, although it has lots of good growth around it.

I will have to cut this with a lopper or saw, too big for concave cutters...

Try cleaning up the cuts with a razor or really sharp knife to the cut is nice and clean then seal with your favorite sealer.