New to Bonsai - My Cherry Tree

[JustinC]

Hi all

I just got my first plant to turn into a bonsai. I've read countless guides and some online books about Bonsai and plenty on internet forums. I am familiar with all the terms and techniques at a textbook level, but lack experience and confidence. Therefore I am most after your opinions.

So, to explain, I just bought a young prunus subhirtella autumnalis (higan cherry tree) from a garden nursery and want to make a bonsai out of it. What's the best way given it's early stage of growth. I like the informal upright bonsai style so I know the trunk needs to be pliable.

I am also worried I might destroy my young tree so if there's a way to do it with preserving the original tree or growing another that would be ideal. I am thinking either air-layering the trunk just below the first branch after the coming winter and planting it in a bonsai pot. (I am not counting the near graft branch which I suppose I should prune - but when?)

Alternatively I can produce softwood cuttings in early spring and once I see some root growth and have confidence it's working, then I can give this main tree a trunk chop & root pruning for repotting as a bonsai. Not sure about how pliable the trunk would be at this point though?

Thoughts?

I am in the southern hemisphere so it's approaching the end of summer here.

I have included a photo of it.

Thanks in advance !

Edit: I should add, I am a long time reader/lurker - new to posting !

 

[eugenev2]

I don't have experience with this specific species, but some general advice.
Learn to care for it is the most important part
You have chosen a preferred style already, but need to decide whether you want to thicken it up or have a skinny tree in a pot, if you want to thicken it, i would stay away from a bonsai pot for some time.
You can wire the trunk into shape so long and look out for wire bite.
Next spring work on the nebari, never to early to start
Lastly don't be too scared to damage or kill it, i'm not a fan of advocating killing trees by saying things like...you learn by killing trees...but the best teacher is pain, horrible mistakes rarely get repeated
A link to specific advice

Higan Cherry Advice

This is a 'Prunus Subhirtella Autumnalis', or Higan Cherry. It is a one gallon cutting that I am growing out that I got from Brent over the winter. The entire container is filled with fibrous roots. Paid I think $30 for it. Pros: -Leaves reduce to a very small size, even full sized leaves are...

www.bonsainut.com

 

[Carol 83]

I am a long time reader/lurker - new to posting !

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Shibui]

Hi @JustinC
Although you have nominated southern hemisphere to give us seasons that still does not help with climate so it definitely helps to add a location to your personal profile so it comes up each time you post, even when you forget to make mention. Cherries are one of the genera that are particular about climate so your actual location becomes even more important for this species.

You have chosen a challenging species to start out with. I know that cherries are special and have great flowers but they also have many pests and diseases to deal with. Cherries are also unpredictable for response to pruning so even following good advice may not get the same response.

Propagating is a great idea. Try some cuttings now and more when the tree is dormant in winter. Hardwood and semi hardwood are generally easier than softwood in spring unless you have plenty of experience and the setup to maintain adequate humidity for active softwood cuttings.
Layering is usually much more reliable but this is a cherry which is prone to gummosis infections when the bark is compromised so even layering may not work as expected.

Not sure about how pliable the trunk would be at this point though?

Even harder for us to decide how pliable the trunk is from a distance and without any real gauge as to the thickness of the trunk. While some species have general limits each tree is different so you'll need to test it to see how much it will bend. Technique will play some part but basically you need to bite the bullet and have a go to get experience.

I am not counting the near graft branch which I suppose I should prune - but when?

At least you understand that the tree is grafted. So many don't even have that basic knowledge.
Does that branch come from the stem below or above the graft?
As mentioned above cherries are prone to gummosis infections and other diseases so pruning is generally safer when the tree is active and can seal the cuts against infection. I prune cherries while they have leaves on and let them alone during winter. Otherwise time of year is not important, it is more about what you expect for a result.

 

[JustinC]

Thanks for your responses. I'm in between zone 8 and 9a, right on the spectrum, but I have a bit of flexibility with positions as it's likely pot bound. I like the suggestion of trying some cuttings now before summer is all over. It's my insurance policy! I will grab some rooting hormone and give it a shot tomorrow.

It's hard to say whether it is above or below the graft, it's too close for me to tell.

The linked previous discussion on this species suggested I should let it run wild for a season to help thicken up the trunk. I will take the cuttings as suggested. Perhaps taking some leaves off might also give it a bit of spare energy for trunk growing as well.

Just FYI I will be doing the exact same thing most likely with a slightly larger Prunus Yeodensis (Yoshino cherry) which hopefully can get in a day or two (as you can see I really like the cherries!)

And I will update my profile
Thanks again !

 

[Shibui]

Good to have another Aussie here.
Depending which part of NSW you're in cherries should be OK climate wise. 8 and 9 probably indicates southern NSW or higher elevations which is better than sub- tropics or western drier areas.

I should let it run wild for a season to help thicken up the trunk.

Allowing growth will definitely add thickness to trunks. Just how much thickness will usually depend on the number of leaves as they are the food processing factories for trees. Every time you cut something off you limit growth a little. Growth comes from leaves, not so much from roots.
Root run is another factor in growth. More room for root growth generally gives corresponding increases in growth above and in trunk thickening but it's probably not a great time for us to be repotting cherry.

The pic shows rather sparse leaf growth at the moment. Possibly due to being root bound, possibly due to starvation, possibly pest or disease or a combination of all 3. Given the time of year I'd try regular fertiliser and pest control as a first resort and repot later in winter. Any additional health and strength you can get will help it come through winter and a repot.

Good luck.

 

[JustinC]

Good to have another Aussie here.
Depending which part of NSW you're in cherries should be OK climate wise. 8 and 9 probably indicates southern NSW or higher elevations which is better than sub- tropics or western drier areas.

Allowing growth will definitely add thickness to trunks. Just how much thickness will usually depend on the number of leaves as they are the food processing factories for trees. Every time you cut something off you limit growth a little. Growth comes from leaves, not so much from roots.
Root run is another factor in growth. More room for root growth generally gives corresponding increases in growth above and in trunk thickening but it's probably not a great time for us to be repotting cherry.

The pic shows rather sparse leaf growth at the moment. Possibly due to being root bound, possibly due to starvation, possibly pest or disease or a combination of all 3. Given the time of year I'd try regular fertiliser and pest control as a first resort and repot later in winter. Any additional health and strength you can get will help it come through winter and a repot.

Good luck.

Wow, you were spot on. It was severely rootbound and compressed.

I repotted it with a mix of potting mix perlite and a bit of bark. Watered well and placed in semi shade for now. We'll see how it looks in a week, it already looks a little bit stronger.