New Trident

Paradox

Marine Bonsologist
Messages
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Location
Long Island, NY
USDA Zone
7a
Got this from Adams Bonsai at MABS

It is about 12-13 years old. Was grown in the ground for 10 years then potted in 2013.
 

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Nice pickup! Adams had some nice stuff there. Any plans for it? Looking forward to future updates!
 
Thats a nice one ! I love the size and the trunk, plus it looks mostly finished as it is. Good score.

ed
 
It has some wounds that still need to heal.

For this year, Im going to just pinch new shoots and leave it be.
Might do some wiring.
Start looking for a pot to put it into next year.
 
It has some wounds that still need to heal.

For this year, Im going to just pinch new shoots and leave it be.
Might do some wiring.
Start looking for a pot to put it into next year.

Mr. Particular !
:p

ed
 
I am torn, if this is mine, I would be inclined to airlayer just below the 2nd pair of branches on pic #4 and get two nicer trees. :D

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Dario is always wanting to chop trees to making new trees! But alas, I agree... the remaining bottom of the tree would be the base for an amazing trident. I'm sure the top would, too.
 
Its hard to see the branches with all those leaves. Took a closer look, most of the branches dont need wiring.
Peter said it was grown by chopping back and growing and chopping back ala Smoke's recommendation. He also said not to repot it this year because it was done last year. Thats fine, I need to find a pot anyway.

Mmm I appreciate the discussion, but Im unsure about chopping it and then having that huge, ugly scar to deal with for years and years. I kinda liked this for the fact that it does seem to be a tree that isnt far from being a "finished" tree. I already have a bunch of chops that are going to take years to devlop.

I do need to make some choices about branches though. Will be able to see better when defoliation time comes around.
 
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Nice purchase! Hope to find similar quality when I finish the yard and repopulate stock. I agree with waiting to see it without foliage before working it. Could be you have show ready hiding in there:cool:

Grimmy
 
Its hard to see the branches with all those leaves. Took a closer look, most of the branches dont need wiring.
Peter said it was grown by chopping back and growing and chopping back ala Smoke's recommendation. He also said not to repot it this year because it was done last year. Thats fine, I need to find a pot anyway.

Mmm I appreciate the discussion, but Im unsure about chopping it and then having that huge, ugly scar to deal with for years and years. I kinda liked this for the fact that it does seem to be a tree that isnt far from being a "finished" tree. I already have a bunch of chops that are going to take years to devlop.

I do need to make some choices about branches though. Will be able to see better when defoliation time comes around.

Hey no worries-- it's your tree and a pretty one at that-- do what you think will make the most of the tree! I'm super jealous-- I LOVE maples and tridents especially. Mine is a twig and it's hard to think it'll be much more than that because I won't leave my trees outside during our winter here-- everything dies. Colorado likes pines and other evergreens only.
 
It has some wounds that still need to heal.

For this year, Im going to just pinch new shoots and leave it be.
Might do some wiring.
Start looking for a pot to put it into next year.

Good looking tree!

Not to open and old topic again here, but which is it? Do you want to pinch new shoots or leave it be? Or, worded another way- Are you trying to heal those big scars or maintain a perfectly ramified tree?

Looks to me like you have a tree that needs to grow out, move some wood to cover some scars, chop back, then Let it grow again... If you pinch the new shoots, you will keep those coveted short internodes because the tree just won't grow a whole bunch, won't develop a lot of vigor and it certainly will not fill in those big holes for you very fast...

Regardless of what you do, you have a nice tree and you MIGHT wind up with two pretty good trees if you layer it- but you run the risk of killing the top and bottom if you mess it up... Or certainly risk killing the top at the very least... Why risk that for the potential reward of two trees that will take a decade to become something when you have a tree that is pretty damn nice right now!?? 100% disagree with the air layer recommendation. I am glad you seem to not be considering it! The most drastic move is not always the best move. Sometimes you just need to let a nice tree be what it is going to be!
 
Good looking tree!

Not to open and old topic again here, but which is it? Do you want to pinch new shoots or leave it be? Or, worded another way- Are you trying to heal those big scars or maintain a perfectly ramified tree?

Looks to me like you have a tree that needs to grow out, move some wood to cover some scars, chop back, then Let it grow again... If you pinch the new shoots, you will keep those coveted short internodes because the tree just won't grow a whole bunch, won't develop a lot of vigor and it certainly will not fill in those big holes for you very fast...

Regardless of what you do, you have a nice tree and you MIGHT wind up with two pretty good trees if you layer it- but you run the risk of killing the top and bottom if you mess it up... Or certainly risk killing the top at the very least... Why risk that for the potential reward of two trees that will take a decade to become something when you have a tree that is pretty damn nice right now!?? 100% disagree with the air layer recommendation. I am glad you seem to not be considering it! The most drastic move is not always the best move. Sometimes you just need to let a nice tree be what it is going to be!

I 100% agree
 
Eric, somehow I missed your post. I have no plans to chop this tree for the reasons you mention. I agree with some times letting a tree being what it is. This is a nice tree and I dont think it needs to be chopped.

Peter recommended to pinch the new growth out to keep the shorter nodes.
The tree seems pretty vigorous at the moment. It is pushing new leaves constantly right now.

It is hard to see everything going on in there with all that foliage. I really need to get a better look at the tree without foliage to decide what to do next but I dont think I want to defoliate it this year (?)

Im still pretty new at this and still learning so Im not always sure what the next steps should be, in fact that is most of the time.....lol. Suggestions and discussion are welcome which is why I posted the tree here in the first place.
 
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I think that if you want the scars to callus over then defoliating would be counter-productive, if that is still in consideration. It might help with leaf reduction, but you would lose the time it takes them to regrow towards helping the callus grow. Defoliating has it's place on a tree that doesnt really need the energy from a full "head of hair", but I think yours could use the benefit of continued photosynthesis. That is not to say it isnt a very nice tree, not at all. I like what Julian brings to sell, and this is no exception. Nice tree!
 
The leaves are off the tree and we can finally see the whole trunk now. I let it grow pretty much on its own this summer.

I need to really take some time to look at the tree and decide where to go with it.
First thing that pops out is probably removing the two lowest branches to expose more of the trunk. I need to cut back on some of the branches I let go wild this summer and probably keep some of them that are still healing wounds.

Note: The stick is not the front, just a stick I keep in the pot for water monitoring.
 

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The first picture seems to be the best front that is shown of the 4. I would begin to look at what branching of the pairs you'll be keeping so you can heal the scar on the other side of the pair. Looks like you'll need to loose at least one of each of the bottom pairs. If you do get rid of both the bottom branches, then you'll just need to pick the keeper on the next pair up. When you photograph, and even when just eyeballing for planning, try putting a wedge under the pot so you can see what it looks like at the proper angle, that can make a huge difference.
 
Thanks Judy.

Yes I also think pic 1 seems the best front. I havent been able to study the bare tree enough yet to decide and angle so putting a wedge under it didnt occur to me at this point.

Yeah, I definitely have some decisions to make on the branches. There is a particularly large one higher up the trunk that I think will need to be cut off and a new one grown. It is too thick.

It also will need a repot next spring.
 
Don't be too fast to cut off a branch that seems too thick at this point. Imagine the tree when the other branches have caught up to that one. If it has good placement, and good movement, especially a good angle leaving the trunk, then you can hold it back and let others catch up. This has a lot of growing to do, so study it well.
 
I need to really take some time to look at the tree and decide where to go with it.
First thing that pops out is probably removing the two lowest branches to expose more of the trunk.

You may want to keep those branches for now to thicken that lowest portion of the trunk. With all the bar branching, there are a lot of bulges as you move up the trunk. I would consider leaving the two lowest and letting them run, while slowing down the top. That will help you build a stronger looking base and even things out. Once you're happy with the lower section, you can use the grown out lower branches to graft (approach or thread) a branch or two on the back of the tree.

Luckily, you have time on your side.
 
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