Progressive Maple Challenge - Max II

Vin

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What's your temperature and wind like right now. Is the tree in dappled sun, full sun or shade?
 

Forsoothe!

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This tree went to help this autumn... it is killing me!
This is happening all over. Some branches almost didn't open. Some open and dry. Definitely root problems. I did not repot this year.

Whats to do????
I don't see any reason to say, "Definitely root problems". From what I see in this discussion, you haven't given a complete view of the conditions of growing. While I suppose it could be a fungus, one has to wonder what pathogens that would attack a Japanese species are in Chile? Are there any Acer species native to S.A.? What have you been doing chemically, and how cold does it get there in winter? Ditto to post #81?
 

barrosinc

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Right now it's under almost shade but luminous.
There is quite a bit of wind and temps are still moderate.
 

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What are "moderate" temps? It looks to me like you are entering a very intense sun period, as on this chart...
Latitude & Time annotated wide.JPG
 

barrosinc

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By moderate I mean we have hit 30°C only 2 days this year
 

A. Gorilla

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What happened last autumn?

Now is spring in Santiago and I see some crispy brown leaves in your first photo. You say obvious root problems. It could be. I suspect a pathogen causing the xylem to become clogged. A fungus that entered via a wound is usually how it happens.

If so, follow all the branches with crispy brown leaves back to a common point OR a point where the leaves are no longer crispy brown --> do you find a scar/wound? Usually the fungal pathogen gets introduced because the cutting tool was inoculated when it was previously used on a diseased tree --> you should sanitize your cutting tools after use, if not before use.

So, you're looking for something like a point where you lopped off a big branch or, say, made a partial saw cut like one might do with approach grafting. If this fits with you. If this is the pattern you find, the remedy is to (sanitize you cutting tool before) remove the branch at a point below that entry wound.

If you don't find a wound associated with any of this, then it could be a root issue. With any luck, it will be only one side of the tree --> the roots on that side are the ones that are dying for some reason. There are bacterial root pathogens as well as fungal ones. A hydrogen peroxide drench might be effective. I buy 3% peroxide at the grocery/pharmacy and dilute it to 1000 to 3000 ppm (0.1 to 0.3%),

What are your observations in these regards?
3% is already 3000 ppm.morans.jpg
 

A. Gorilla

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What is a factor of 10 among friends? 🤣

🤔 I think 3000 ppm = 0.3%

1 ppm = 10^-6
3000 ppm = 3x10^-3
1% = 10^-2
3x10^-3 = 0.3x10^-2 = 0.3%
right? 🤓

OR 3% = 30,000ppm if you prefer.
I don't identify as old factual math.

Common core math allows for moral accuracy as well.
 

Vin

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Right now it's under almost shade but luminous.
There is quite a bit of wind and temps are still moderate.
Max, it could be the wind that is drying the leaves out. This may sound severe but have you considered the following: Remove all the leaves keeping about half the petiole. Move it to an area that will offer protection from the wind and in about 2 weeks you should have leaves beginning to develop.

As you know, JM leaves are very delicate and sensitive to wind. I have done this many times over the years and it seems to work. Talk this over with others first before taking action.
 

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Remove leaves from a tree that is having trouble leafing out. On a scale of one to ten, I'll give that a 2. This tree is in a zone that is marginally (at least marginally) too warm. WeatherSpark shows me that it's too dry in summer and it gets all the way down to 38°F in winter and not below 40°F enough to satisfy the typical quiescent needs. I don't don't why this tree has done so well for 5 years. Shows you what I know.
 

barrosinc

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So it is looking really bad. I will remove soil and put in in the ground... if that doesn't work it was going to die anyways
 
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