Recipe for DIY Bonsai soil

Wires_Guy_wires

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Thanks was just looking for your advice on how you use it . In Canada we are one of the primary producer and supplier of peat moss . Which is used for most of the potting soils ir at least the major component . For most nurseries and caged pitting soils . Which I don’t use for bonsai . Other then very young plants and I mix some in grow beds in the ground . My interest in coir .is as a component of bonsai soil . I’m thinking of organic liking species like prunus and tsuga . It’s reported ability to expand greatly from wet to dry seems useful to combat the soil breaking down and hurting water drainage . Have to admit I don’t like your lasts 3 years statement . Fine for prunus . But my interest in tsuga Canadensis . They like aeration and organics they love . But they also don’t like root disturbance and respond to long repot cycles . A difficult combo
I would see if you can mix in perlite instead of coir if I were you. Perlite is cheap and because it's so light it's also easily found everywhere in the world, shipping is easy. I know it's used in fireplace insulation as well, to backfill holes around the chimneys.
Together with the DE and crushed granite it should make a decent soil. Just make sure you use a pure DE or granite toplayer because the wind will blow perlite out of your pots.
 

Frozentreehugger

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I would see if you can mix in perlite instead of coir if I were you. Perlite is cheap and because it's so light it's also easily found everywhere in the world, shipping is easy. I know it's used in fireplace insulation as well, to backfill holes around the chimneys.
Together with the DE and crushed granite it should make a decent soil. Just make sure you use a pure DE or granite toplayer because the wind will blow perlite out of your pots.
I think you mis understand I’m looking for a organic component . For organic loving trees . I use pine bark thinking of supplementing the bark with coir . As I said tsuga likes aeration but has a love of organic . The problem is they respond well to long repots . So looking for organic that lasts without plugging water flow . Wondering if coir will help . It’s expanding ability when wet will help keep the compost loose
 

Joe Dupre'

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I like the bigger sizes of pine bark. They last longer, drain better and whatever decomposes normally flushes out with copious watering.
 

Frozentreehugger

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I like the bigger sizes of pine bark. They last longer, drain better and whatever decomposes normally flushes out with copious watering.
This I do also for trees in training works great but always experimenting . Thinking long term ideas for refinement for example . For example tsuga loves leaf mold manufactured from sugar maple . But it don’t last . Idea was sparked the trees together are considered climax trees in there native range . Tsuga naturally stretches it’s shallow root system in the maple leaf litter .
 

Joe Dupre'

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The potting soil in nursery trees gets a bad rap. I've bought several nursery trees, and the very center of the root ball never seems to be a mucky mess as many people say. The way trees mostly get up potted during their lives is to be put in a bigger pot and soil backfilled around the root ball. So, the center of the root ball could be many years old and still I haven't found it to be really horrendous. Due for a repot....surely.....but not as terrible as is often claimed.
 

Frozentreehugger

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The potting soil in nursery trees gets a bad rap. I've bought several nursery trees, and the very center of the root ball never seems to be a mucky mess as many people say. The way trees mostly get up potted during their lives is to be put in a bigger pot and soil backfilled around the root ball. So, the center of the root ball could be many years old and still I haven't found it to be really horrendous. Due for a repot....surely.....but not as terrible as is often claimed.
Nursery soil up here is mostly peat moss based . Not saying it’s great but as bonsai people we often misunderstand. Or don’t consider why it’s used . It’s cheap plentiful light and airy . Once wet stays wet for a long time almost anything will grow in it to sone degree of success . To a nursery these are all cost saving and labour ie cost saving . Merits . Gross sales total -all production expenses = profit it’s that simple . At the end of the day the above equation rules . Also consider if the results in it were to poor the above equation would be changed . So the stuff can only be so bad if it is successfully used
 

Firstflush

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Try G&B Organic Harvest Supreme mildly sifted for an organic component. Sift it over your garden beds. Wonderful fines.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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I think you mis understand I’m looking for a organic component . For organic loving trees . I use pine bark thinking of supplementing the bark with coir . As I said tsuga likes aeration but has a love of organic . The problem is they respond well to long repots . So looking for organic that lasts without plugging water flow . Wondering if coir will help . It’s expanding ability when wet will help keep the compost loose
It seems I misunderstood, indeed. Have you heard about coco husk fibers? They're chunky and take more time to break down. But due to their fiber structure they are harder to work into the soil without air pockets.
The expansion of coco coir only happens when you buy a pressed brick. After the first expansion it's more or less stable.
It does break down though, but as I mentioned in a deep pot that's going faster than in a shallow pot. But I'm not sure if 3-4 years is doable. 2 years for sure.
I have a mugo in pumice and coir, that's going to get a repot pretty soon. I'll take some notes on the status after 2 years in a wooden box.
 

Frozentreehugger

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It seems I misunderstood, indeed. Have you heard about coco husk fibers? They're chunky and take more time to break down. But due to their fiber structure they are harder to work into the soil without air pockets.
The expansion of coco coir only happens when you buy a pressed brick. After the first expansion it's more or less stable.
It does break down though, but as I mentioned in a deep pot that's going faster than in a shallow pot. But I'm not sure if 3-4 years is doable. 2 years for sure.
I have a mugo in pumice and coir, that's going to get a repot pretty soon. I'll take some notes on the status after 2 years in a wooden box.
Thank you . And yes I have some husk chunks . My understanding is the expansion or let’s say the compressed brick . Idea is possible because of the expansion properties of the product . Once wet in a soil mix .that property still exist to some extent . Ie it expands and contracts . More than other products . From say slightly damp to full wet . This feature helps aerate compost . This info came from reading about its uses and abilities not tested in bonsai
 

johng

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Like most soil questions it is extremely difficult to give a universal answer... Everything depends on multiple factors including, your location, the stage of development of your trees, how fast you want your trees to develop, your availability to water, economics, and the availability of soil components in your area.

If you are new to bonsai and growing plants in containers, you will have more success if you err on the side of a mix that includes organics(peat moss, bark, etc...) They are much more forgiving if you have a busy life! I have more than 1000 pieces of material that I am DEVELOPING for bonsai...more than 90% are in highly organic soil. I use a more coarse mix with limited or no organics for trees in refinement.
 

Firstflush

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Looks interesting at least it’s not 90 percent peat like so many . Have you tried it in a pot
Yes I have. It is a planting mix so it is more chunky but all fully composted plus a bunch of other stuff. I add pumice and a good DE. It should not be used solely IMHO. It would be all the composted bark, wood, nuggets you need.

Here in Socal unless you like extreme water babysitting, we use a little bit more organics.
 
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