Root pruning American Hornbeam

JudyB

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Be careful moving heavily root pruned or newly collected trees early on, as the roots you so need them to grow may be broken off as the soil shifts a little in the pot. Especially if the pot is not stiff.
 

Zach Smith

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RockM, Zach, whats your horn beam soil mix if i may ask? you seemed to mention mine was too coarse.. its sifted napa 8822, sifted calcine clay oil dry (I've had good luck with it in a mix) 1/4" lava, 1/4" pumice, 1/4" bark, 1/4" "bonsai block" handful of hort charcoal. probably way too expensive for what im doing with it, I do have one more hornbeam I will collect that Zach has given the green light as far as potential goes, ill cut the roots back more aggressively on that one and get it in a smaller container, and bury it deeper. I'm going to use these ones for my research this year, and leave some really good ones for next year once I have my data.
My soil mix is simple: Turface All Sport roughly half and half with pine bark mulch from Home Depot. Unsifted for nursery stock, sifted for bonsai. The trees love it.

Zach
 

BethF

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My soil mix is simple: Turface All Sport roughly half and half with pine bark mulch from Home Depot. Unsifted for nursery stock, sifted for bonsai. The trees love it.

Zach
Which brand of pine bark mulch? Sifted the last of mine yesterday, so have to get some more.
 

Zach Smith

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Which brand of pine bark mulch? Sifted the last of mine yesterday, so have to get some more.
I like the one Home Depot sells (down here, at least), Show Scape. It seems to be more rotted than what you get from Lowes.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Which brand of pine bark mulch? Sifted the last of mine yesterday, so have to get some more.
You might find a better size at Lowe's or Home Depot under the brand Evergreen Soil Conditioner.
 

rockm

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RockM, Zach, whats your horn beam soil mix if i may ask? you seemed to mention mine was too coarse.. its sifted napa 8822, sifted calcine clay oil dry (I've had good luck with it in a mix) 1/4" lava, 1/4" pumice, 1/4" bark, 1/4" "bonsai block" handful of hort charcoal. probably way too expensive for what im doing with it, I do have one more hornbeam I will collect that Zach has given the green light as far as potential goes, ill cut the roots back more aggressively on that one and get it in a smaller container, and bury it deeper. I'm going to use these ones for my research this year, and leave some really good ones for next year once I have my data.
What I meant by too coarse meant that it's too free draining and contains no organic compounds. It is probably best for conifers. Organic ingredients, IMO, have a place in deciduous bonsai soil. I've used the Evergreen Soil Conditioner over the years. If you can't find that name, have a look at "clay buster" soil amendments. They are usually some form of composted pine mulch. I stopped sifting soil a very long time ago. I was finding there wasn't much return for the labor involved.

A lean mix like you're using can be a very bad thing for a tree that's adapted to growing in moist areas. The top layer will dry out pretty quickly and you could be at risk of having the root crown dry out as well. If you must use such a lean soil on a newly-collected tree, use a two inch layer of chopped long fibered sphagnum moss on top. Keep that moist and it will promote recovery by keeping the top layer of soil moist and humid for new roots.
 

pweifan

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When I repotted the smaller hornbeam, I just switched to a non-organic soil. Do you think I'll have problems and should use the sphagnum as well, or is this suggestion only for freshly collected trees? I won't be able to trim the big hornbeam until this weekend. I spent last weekend unexpectedly buying a new car :(
 

Jester217300

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What I meant by too coarse meant that it's too free draining and contains no organic compounds. It is probably best for conifers. Organic ingredients, IMO, have a place in deciduous bonsai soil. I've used the Evergreen Soil Conditioner over the years. If you can't find that name, have a look at "clay buster" soil amendments. They are usually some form of composted pine mulch. I stopped sifting soil a very long time ago. I was finding there wasn't much return for the labor involved.

I have everything in a lava and pumice dominant mix, hornbeam included, and I'm happy with it in MI. I think I might be able to push it a bit because we're a little cooler year round. However I'm still in training pots across the board. Many trees will probably need an organic amendment as I start to reduce pot size. I do have a few small trees in 4" pots that have been OK for two years.

The only species that I'm adding organics to even in training pots is Larch. I had one larch die of drying out last year. They're water hogs. I'll probably do the same with Spruce. I wish I could find soil conditioner up here....
 

Waltron

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When I repotted the smaller hornbeam, I just switched to a non-organic soil. Do you think I'll have problems and should use the sphagnum as well, or is this suggestion only for freshly collected trees? I won't be able to trim the big hornbeam until this weekend. I spent last weekend unexpectedly buying a new car :(

do you have photos of your hornbeams??
 

pweifan

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Sorry it's been a while since I've replied. Last Wednesday we woke up a plumbing problem in our upstairs bathroom. Since the bathroom is upstairs and gravity doesn't like water to just sit in one place, it made for a really bad time. I had a very busy morning sucking up water with a shop vac and then the water mitigation crew arrived and installed these octopus looking things:

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There were also LOTS of fans and dehumidifiers throughout the house. Everything was taken apart and unusable so we stayed at a hotel for several days. Well as of last night we were back home and I finally got a chance to look at this hornbeam.

I'll apologize for the quality of the pictures. I only have a cell phone to work with and I didn't have a lot of time to stop and take photos along the way because I was losing daylight.

Here's that wonderful nebari I mentioned in an earlier post:

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There are some empty patches, but I think it's a great start. After trimming the roots, I see it won't be too difficult to get it into the growbox.

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I trimmed the roots a bit more and planted it up. I also anchored it in with wire before adding the topmost layer of soil (a mixture of Turface MVP, Manna Pro poultry grit, lava rock and sifted pine bark). I'm not a beer man, so I used a gatorade bottle for scale.

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I love the existing movement of the trunk but I'm not sure there's enough taper to justify keeping that first bend. What do you guys think? Please provide suggestions and virts if you're up to them. I would appreciate any input you have.

Thanks!
Scott
 

rockm

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You've got to reduce that trunk next year by at least half. If it were mine, I'd cut it back most of the way to that first strong shoot.

The soil sounds OK.

Sympathies on the water damage. Had much the same situation a few years ago after the roof held up four feet of snow and developed ice dams. The Serve Pro guys brought in big heaters and dehumidifiers and dried my top floor out. Didn't see the octopus thing, though.
 

pweifan

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You've got to reduce that trunk next year by at least half. If it were mine, I'd cut it back most of the way to that first strong shoot.

The soil sounds OK.

Sympathies on the water damage. Had much the same situation a few years ago after the roof held up four feet of snow and developed ice dams. The Serve Pro guys brought in big heaters and dehumidifiers and dried my top floor out. Didn't see the octopus thing, though.

Which shoot? The one right above the soil line or the first one after the bend?

It was Serv Pro that did our remediation as well. I got the impression that the octopus devices were newer.
 

pweifan

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The one right above the soil.
Wow, lower than I was thinking. Then make that shoot the new leader?

If I were to air layer this right above the first bend, do you think I should wait a year? I'd like to air layer it and hopefully remove the layer this year and trunk chop it down low next year. Is that too aggressive?
 

rockm

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Yes, that WOULD BE DEVELOPED into the new apex, inducing some movement into it and some diameter by wiring it and then letting it grow unhindered for a couple of years, then chopping it back.

Skip the air layering. The long stretch of straight, no-taper makes this trunk pretty boring not worth the effort. The time spent air layering would be better (and more easily) spent collecting a better one.
 

Underdog

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I like the box Scott. Well built.
 

pweifan

Shohin
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Yes, that WOULD BE DEVELOPED into the new apex, inducing some movement into it and some diameter by wiring it and then letting it grow unhindered for a couple of years, then chopping it back.

Skip the air layering. The long stretch of straight, no-taper makes this trunk pretty boring not worth the effort. The time spent air layering would be better (and more easily) spent collecting a better one.

I was up at my parents' place this weekend and didn't see any other hornbeams worth collecting. Oh well, I'll just work with what I have for now. Thank you for all the advice!
 
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