Root pruning American Hornbeam

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
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I was up at my parents' place this weekend and didn't see any other hornbeams worth collecting. Oh well, I'll just work with what I have for now. Thank you for all the advice!
I have found that where there is one hornbeam, there are more, sometimes a lot more. I'm not saying this isn't worth collecting per se, it's just that it's got some flaws that aren't worth perpetuating. The trunk on this one has no real taper above a foot. The trunk you would remove (not air layer) is not worth the trouble, as it would still have big issues with visual interest. That's not unlike most collected bonsai material. Rarely do you find a tree that is a "natural" with all kinds of visual interest to its very top and small enough to collect.

Collecting trees is ALL about the first two feet of just about anything you come across. If there is a bit of taper, some decent surface roots, it's good, any add ons, like great bark, great movement (curves) within that space is gravy.

Didn't mean to discourage you, just meant to sharpen your eye a bit. Took me years to realize all I was really looking for in the woods was a good, interesting two to three foot trunk. The remaining 30-50 feet don't really matter all that much and neither does species.

Seriously, take a closer look around. I bet you run across at least one more hornbeam. It you don't take a look at other trunks in the vicinity without thinking about species. If it's good enough, the species thing can be dealt with.
 

pweifan

Shohin
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It's nice to work on trees again and see how everything's changed over the past year. :)

I took the advice of @rockm and chopped it low. I think it's a good move, but it will clearly take a while to thicken enough to look believable.

2017 Chop.jpg

After chopping the trunk, I removed the tree from the growbox and raked the soil out of the roots. Why oh why didn't I cut the roots closer to the trunk when I collected the tree?!? Everyone who suggested I do this when collecting a tree was 100% correct. Since I can only work with where I'm at now, I decided to work on a different issue. I removed quite a few roots that weren't on the proper plane for radial roots and then screwed the tree to a board. I'm going to trim the roots closer to the tree next year. I'm also going to do some root grafts to fill in the holes.

2017 Nebari.jpg

The good news is I think I learned more about collecting trees and, you know, what not to do in the future ;)

My plan this year is to fertilize the hell out of the tree and get that leader to extend as far as possible and thicken up.
 

Tieball

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Okay...just a thought....with roots like that you might just plant this in the ground. Let it grow wildly. Add thickness to the trunk. Develop your trunk sections. Let the roots run wild, fat and far. Thicken everything. All while in the ground. Then...when you think you have something to work with finally....layer it just above the soil line. A layering for new roots that low will help preserve a lot of the trunk flair at the base of the tree. You'll then create the opportunity for much better roots.
 

pweifan

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Okay...just a thought....with roots like that you might just plant this in the ground. Let it grow wildly. Add thickness to the trunk. Develop your trunk sections. Let the roots run wild, fat and far. Thicken everything. All while in the ground. Then...when you think you have something to work with finally....layer it just above the soil line. A layering for new roots that low will help preserve a lot of the trunk flair at the base of the tree. You'll then create the opportunity for much better roots.

The funny thing is I planted 40+ 2 year-old seedlings at my parents' place a few weeks back. This was going to be one of them, but I just didn't have room; the entire van was chock full of pond baskets. So I went a different direction and repotted it this weekend. I see your point and I may end up going that route. I'll focus on the horticulture of keeping it vigorous this year and then decide what to do with it next year.
 

Tieball

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The funny thing is I planted 40+ 2 year-old seedlings at my parents' place a few weeks back. This was going to be one of them, but I just didn't have room; the entire van was chock full of pond baskets. So I went a different direction and repotted it this weekend. I see your point and I may end up going that route. I'll focus on the horticulture of keeping it vigorous this year and then decide what to do with it next year.
Sounds like a good plan.
 

Giga

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Looks like your on your way to learn the way of the hornbeam - just keep it up
 

pweifan

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Last weekend I was at my parents' place. I decided to collect the best hornbeam I could find and apply what I've learned about collecting. I think I found a better tree than last time.

in_ground.jpg

I completely bare rooted it and cut the roots back much closer to the trunk. The only root I left long was the one with a sucker attached. I thought it would be a good idea to let it leaf out while the tree was recovering. If that's a bad idea, please let me know and I'll cut the sucker off. There are some downward facing roots that I'll need to cut off next year. That will allow me to use a more shallow pot.

roots_trimmed.jpg

Here it is all potted up with a bottle of my favorite refreshment for scale. What do you think?

in_pot.jpg
 

Tieball

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I'd cut the sucker off...it will suck up energy. Hornbeams in my area are funny like that...they grow suckers instead of buds....you have a lot of great roots....lose the sucker is my opinion. Listen to a few others who might comment too though....just so you're sure.

And yes....much better collection. Nice work.
 
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Tieball

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Chop it off. Enjoy the big trunk.
Curious....what's your thinking on the big trunks? They're nearly the same height. Wait for buds then think about what to do next? If it buds out well....
I have difficulty getting Hornbeams to bud on trunks in my area.
 

pweifan

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I'll chop the sucker tomorrow after work. My initial thought was to chop the thick trunk at the first branch and get great taper. The problem with that is very limited movement. My new plan is to see where it buds and decide what to do next year. I'm hoping I get lots and lots of buds since that will give me more options. Any thoughts?
 

Tieball

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Good plan and approach to next steps. The unknown is just if and where buds will appear. I've had similar trunks and no buds appeared on the trunk except for the very top....and I wished I had cut lower...but I'm working on making it work. In time the new growth will thicken and give me possibilities.

Depending on where buds appear on that thinner trunk, you may be able to chop it lower once you see opportunities for chopping. Keep posting progress. I'd like to see where you go and what happens.
 

pweifan

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I'm debating chopping the thinner trunk lower tonight when I cut off the sucker. Am I over-working the tree?
 

Tieball

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The tree does have very nice potential using that smaller trunk and creating a nice rugged gnarled URL deadwood area out of thicker trunk cut back further. In my area the Hornbeams cover order, heal over, every so slowly....I mean slower than slow.
 

Tieball

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My thought process here....easy for me because I can just scribble on a photo....you have the real tree so get to make 3D decisions. The black represented my early chop. Then seeing how buds appeared I'd apply the red color chop. That thick section of trunk left was for some nice carving....I'd take my time and stare at the chopped tree and new growth for a couple of seasons at least before carving. The tree example photo...although not like your tree exactly....is the kind of carving I imagined for that big trunk chop area. It's a thought....but you'll find your thought.
 

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pweifan

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Nice hornbeam! Thanks for taking the time to post virts as well :)

I was thinking of taking that thinner trunk shorter than your virt tonight. Am I being too aggressive? I figured it would be easier to get a convincing taper on that one, so it's not as risky to chop lower. I don't want to shoot myself in the foot though.
 

Tieball

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I was just hovering above what looked like an area where a branch was at one time....hoping maybe some buds would appear in the area. I cut above it to give dieback room. Wherever you chop there will likely be dieback. So perhaps a strategy is to give yourself some dieback room....and you may end up where you want to be located on the trunk. The tree on the other hand, is sitting there silently thinking... you guys have no idea what I'm going to do.
 

Tieball

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Now you have a plan....and wait so impatiently for some sign of growth. The waiting game begins.

Someone here on Bonsainut talked about using a tent, like a big bag, a small greenhouse like effect, around collected Hornbeam as a way of improving bud possibilities. I cannot remember who right this moment. I don't remember or know if it worked but I remember thinking it had merit and logic.
 
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pweifan

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I remember seeing that discussion. I think the jury was still out on whether or not it helped though. I'll see if it stalls in producing buds and go from there.
 
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