Shimpaku cuttings

[BrightsideB]

Not to constantly address something that has been addressed a lot here. I bought several shimpaku yesterday from plant city in Georgia. I want to take some cuttings from this one. I’ve had some success with juniper cuttings. But not a lot. I was curious if someone with success could point to were I should cut the branch for the cutting in the photo. Thanks!

 

[leatherback]

I usually cute 1/2 to 1 inch into the brown stem. Then remove all side-branches from the bottom inch and stick them in substrate.

 

[Snorlax99]

Damn I'm jealous...down here in SA I can't find Shinpaku at all. Nice tree!

 

[BrightsideB]

I usually cute 1/2 to 1 inch into the brown stem. Then remove all side-branches from the bottom inch and stick them in substrate.

Thanks, I hear people taking cuttings at a range of times during the year.

 

[BrightsideB]

Damn I'm jealous...down here in SA I can't find Shinpaku at all. Nice tree!

Thanks! Where is SA? I have only found them at a nursery for bonsai. People sell them online though. But it’s nice to examine in person before buying.

 

[Snorlax99]

Sorry, SA is South Africa

 

[leatherback]

Thanks, I hear people taking cuttings at a range of times during the year.

I take them whenever I am trimming. Not sure whether there is a specific time that works better or worse.

 

[sorce]

I'd be one branch into the brown.

But take all types and place em different places.

Sorce

 

[ShimpakuBonsai]

Do you also want to repot this shimpaku this spring?
If so I would repot before cutting the runners to gain some vigor in the tree.

 

[leatherback]

would repot before cutting the runners to gain some vigor in the tree.

Really? You think it would make a difference? To me, runners are a sign to strength. Cutting runners does not really affect the tree afaik?

 

[BrightsideB]

I cut the runners because more stored energy in the tree can now be utilized in other parts. Probably repot several weeks before summer put in mostly shady cool place for several weeks to recoup and back into sun. I’ve had good success with that method personally. If I remove roots and branches at same time I have noticed it doesn’t recoup as well. But I didn’t remove much. Like 8 little branches. I’m going to cut back this winter and put some wire on it.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Really? You think it would make a difference? To me, runners are a sign to strength. Cutting runners does not really affect the tree afaik?

If auxins are produced in the growing tips, then runners must be a great source of it!
Good for rooting, so they say.
But do junipers need it to root properly? I think not that much.

 

[leatherback]

If auxins are produced in the growing tips, then runners must be a great source of it!

True. Buuutt... All juniper foliage has growing tips, ready to take over if the leader fails.
Would be interesting to know what the real impact of the runners is, as I routinely take them off for cuttings

 

[Shibui]

I take shimpaku cuttings at all times of year. Whenever I need more plants and whenever there is material available.
Softwood tips root OK but will need humidity control - misting or plastic bag. Medium wood ( just starting to turn brown) is great. Hardwood (brown stems) can root but takes longer and strike rate is usually lower.
From the shoot in the photo I would take the tip cut just below the brown as others have said but I'd also cut a 4 inch section below that as well and possibly even a third cutting below that. Strong side shoots can also be used for smaller cuttings but they will take a long time to grow big enough to use after growing roots.

Shimpaku can take a long time to produce roots so humidity is important to keep the cuttings hydrated until they can grow roots. Automatic misting is best. Plastic bag over the pot is good. Place pots in a larger storage tub with some water in the bottom is also good (stand pots on bricks, etc so they are not sitting in water)
From a pot of 30 cuttings I will usually get around 10 with roots after 3 months in the growing season (longer in winter). The ones without roots go back in the pot and back into the propagating area. I usually get another 6-10 with roots a few months later. A few can take up to 18 months to produce roots.

 

[BrightsideB]

If auxins are produced in the growing tips, then runners must be a great source of it!
Good for rooting, so they say.
But do junipers need it to root properly? I think not that much.

I agree. I figure the auxin present is a boost though. Can help with root growth and foliage. I failed with my attempt during summer and early winter. I didn’t do shimpaku though.

 

[BrightsideB]

I take shimpaku cuttings at all times of year. Whenever I need more plants and whenever there is material available.
Softwood tips root OK but will need humidity control - misting or plastic bag. Medium wood ( just starting to turn brown) is great. Hardwood (brown stems) can root but takes longer and strike rate is usually lower.
From the shoot in the photo I would take the tip cut just below the brown as others have said but I'd also cut a 4 inch section below that as well and possibly even a third cutting below that. Strong side shoots can also be used for smaller cuttings but they will take a long time to grow big enough to use after growing roots.

Shimpaku can take a long time to produce roots so humidity is important to keep the cuttings hydrated until they can grow roots. Automatic misting is best. Plastic bag over the pot is good. Place pots in a larger storage tub with some water in the bottom is also good (stand pots on bricks, etc so they are not sitting in water)
From a pot of 30 cuttings I will usually get around 10 with roots after 3 months in the growing season (longer in winter). The ones without roots go back in the pot and back into the propagating area. I usually get another 6-10 with roots a few months later. A few can take up to 18 months to produce roots.

That’s cool! I cut most of them like two branches into the softer brown tissue with a razor cutting the branches dipped into hormone. I know people say it’s not all that necessary but I don’t see it hurting. I put them in my indoor grow room under vegetables. Because the light is really strong. Trying to keep them at a more moderate and constant temp around 70 degrees to promote more steady growth hopefully quicker as well. I guess I’ll see if it is worth the extra effort. I would like to just set up an area outside where I can set and forget though.

 

[BrightsideB]

Added a jm

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

True. Buuutt... All juniper foliage has growing tips, ready to take over if the leader fails.
Would be interesting to know what the real impact of the runners is, as I routinely take them off for cuttings

I take them off too. But I found that taking them off too soon causes a slow down in growth.

I'm planning on taking a bunch of cuttings this year, without the use of hormones. I have read they should root better that way. My juniper cuttings last year haven't been very succesful.

 

[BrightsideB]

I hear a lot of success stories and have seen without using hormone. I just don’t see how hormone can cause a problem generating roots. Seems like there are other factors at play. It seems to me that an abundance of auxin as well as other hormones for root growth should stimulate growth in the right temp and humid conditions. That is speaking on behalf of taking cuttings from the runners that contain more auxin.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I hear a lot of success stories and have seen without using hormone. I just don’t see how hormone can cause a problem generating roots. Seems like there are other factors at play. It seems to me that an abundance of auxin as well as other hormones for root growth should stimulate growth in the right temp and humid conditions. That is speaking on behalf of taking cuttings from the runners that contain more auxin.

Too much auxin inhibits rooting. So it makes sense that if runners produce a bunch of it already, and we feed them more, they downregulate their response to those auxins and root poorly as a result.

However, junipers - and conifers - in general don't seem all that responsive to auxins. Most literature states that they benefit from very low doses or short exposure to high doses (shock exposure) combined with full depletion afterwards.