Styling Suggestion: Prunus Mume

[007]

Hi everyone,

So I acquired a nice sized P.Mume about 2 years ago and it came in a field pot. The first year I left it alone, then last year, I repotted into proper soil and a clay pot (I had hoped to put it back into a training pot, but the underlying root structure was bigger than I thought and wouldn't fit into the planned pot, and this was all I had . . . so in it went. Next repot, however, will be into a proper training pot).

All I've done up to this point is some basic pruning and clearing of obviously errant branches and its not ready for its first styling. I'm not entirely sure where to go with it! I have a potential "front" chose, which would allow for some nice branching on both sides, but I worry that it will create a "slingshot" look. I also plan to do some deadwood down the trunk, starting with the large scar at the top and extending down the trunk though the large cuts.

Any input is appreciated!

 

[007]

Okay, a little more info . . . the pic with the slightly tilted pot is my potential front. The first branch would be on the left with the second branch coming from the upper right of the trunk, extending from the top of the chop.

Here's what I started with:

 

[Si Nguyen]

Wow! That's a really nice mume! Good find! I don't think you would need to do much, just a little clip-n-grow. I'd aim for a natural-looking, broom style tree. Leave all branches on the trunk for now. Just cut them back a little for more ramifications. And enjoy.
Good luck!

 

[Poink88]

I agree, very nice!

I too would shorten the branches more to create a better structure...

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Nice trunk. A couple thoughts:

1. The heavy crossing roots will need to be addressed. They are pretty tough and fast-growing, so you could reduce one this year, and one next year.

2. Which is the best front? From the OP photos, maybe it's the first shot, with the pruning scar on the left, and new apex moving to the right? This puts those crossing roots toward the back, right?

3. Lignified branches aren't very flexible. In a few of those primary branches, you'll see one strong lignified shoot, and a smaller green shoot emerging close to the base. You might consider cutting back the strong shoot, back to the green one, then wiring what's left to add movement.

---See photos for an example (from a longer article scheduled to publish this Saturday). That primary branch emerging to the right forked; one side was flexible, the other was very heavy, inflexible, and so it was removed, and the thinner one was wired into the space. Ultimately, the whole thing will be replaced with one of those new, short green shoots emerging from the trunk.

4. Wiring now requires care, because its easy to snap branches. If you wire in May/June, you can get more movement, and if you do snap a few branches, you can be assured they will live, even if hanging by a thread.

Once you finish pruning, lets have a look at what's left...

 

[fredtruck]

Has this tree ever flowered?

 

[007]

Wow! That's a really nice mume! Good find! I don't think you would need to do much, just a little clip-n-grow. I'd aim for a natural-looking, broom style tree. Leave all branches on the trunk for now. Just cut them back a little for more ramifications. And enjoy.
Good luck!

Thanks! I have another Ume that I'm working into a broom, so I think I want to do something a little different with this one . . . however, that may change once I start pruning!

Nice trunk. A couple thoughts:

1. The heavy crossing roots will need to be addressed. They are pretty tough and fast-growing, so you could reduce one this year, and one next year.

2. Which is the best front? From the OP photos, maybe it's the first shot, with the pruning scar on the left, and new apex moving to the right? This puts those crossing roots toward the back, right? CORRECT. This was my logic as well.

3. Lignified branches aren't very flexible. In a few of those primary branches, you'll see one strong lignified shoot, and a smaller green shoot emerging close to the base. You might consider cutting back the strong shoot, back to the green one, then wiring what's left to add movement. Also part of the plan. However, there's a few that I want to remove outright.

4. Wiring now requires care, because its easy to snap branches. If you wire in May/June, you can get more movement, and if you do snap a few branches, you can be assured they will live, even if hanging by a thread. Pruning now. Wiring later this summer.

Once you finish pruning, lets have a look at what's left...

Has this tree ever flowered?

Sadly . . . . no. I don't think I fertilized well last year. I basically just gave it one balanced dose in the spring and nothing else after that. I was more concerned about getting it established and recovered (if you saw how many roots I had to remove to get it out of the field pot, you would have cringed). This year, however, I'll pay more attention to get it to flower. I'm told they are pink.

I'm going to start some pruning now . . . I'll post up when with updates!

Thanks!!

 

[discusmike]

Agree,thats a nice one.

 

[007]

Alright, here's the "damage" after round 1. I'm still not sure about the large, straight branch jutting upright from the bottom edge of the chop. Its boring and lacks buds until the top 10% of the branch. Its just such a large branch to remove!

(I dunno why the pic is rotated)

 

[JudyB]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like there are lower branches coming off that straight branch that you have at the bottom of the chop. I would cut back to the first one of these and restart that branch. I'd try to reduce the one under that one as well, as it has a long straight section.
I find that in a year or two of looking at things I decided to just live with, that I realize I made a mistake and wasted time, not dealing with them earlier...

Lovely ume, so happy for you.

 

[Poink88]

I find that in a year or two of looking at things I decided to just live with, that I realize I made a mistake and wasted time, not dealing with them earlier...

Maybe something like this?
View attachment 30688

 

[Jason]

Nice Ume

Nice Ume. I think I like it sideways better. Congratulations on picking out some really nice material. Why don't you give it some time, see where the buds leaf out, and bring the growth back closer to the trunk gradually (like Judy mentioned). It doesn't all have to be done in one sitting. That long straight branch isn't the best branch for sure, but you can gradually reduce it after the closer growth takes off. Why take the chance of losing the whole branch? Removing it is easy, but making it come back doesn't work (trust me).

I have one that needs a similar reduction. I'll be trying to bring everything back closer to the trunk too. I used to do all these reductions super quick (one or two sittings). Most of the time it worked fine but I lost a few trees and made myself a little sick. It depends on how lucky you feel. Whatever you do let us know what happens.

 

[fredtruck]

Jason has some good advice. My question about flowering is related. Generally, umes are built with a very rough framework with which to contrast the delicate flowers. An approach like this creates a very dramatic tree. Your tree won't flower in the same places all the time, of course, but seeing the flowers will give you some unexpected directions most likely.

 

[007]

Thanks for the input everyone. I've been out of town and havent had a chance to reply . . .

The long branch at the end of the chop actually does NOT have anything down low. What you see that LOOKS like its from the branch is actually from a branch behind that one, coming off the back of the tree.

For now, it is what it is and I will leave it to recuperate after this years pruning. I'm in no rush.