cockroach
Chumono
A small succulent with some sedum. It's about 3 inches tall
The Accent (Companion) Plant Thread
- Thread starter zachkent29
- Start date
atlarsenal
Omono
This is my wife’s first go at an accent planting and I must say I am very impressed. I should have included something in the pic for size reference but the container is about 5” long.
wsteinhoff
Shohin
Acorus gramineus "minimus aureus" freshly potted as it awakens from its winter dormancy.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
- Messages
- 11,595
- Reaction score
- 24,228
- USDA Zone
- 5b
Here is my Habenaria radiata, aka Pecteilis radiata - egret orchid from 2016. It did not survive the 2016-2017 winter, much to my same. It was potted in a lovely Bunzan pot, beautiful blue glaze with yellow highlights.
How to grow and things to do different next time.
Potting mix, mine worked well enough. blend of fine fir bark for seedling orchids, Kanuma, perlite, chopped long fiber sphagnum, a small portion of fine sand (play sand) top dress with a layer of sphagnum moss, then plant living ''crack in the sidewalk moss''. They want a mildly acidic, water retentive mix that breathes well, allowing good air penetration.
Water - these never want to dry out completely - in nature they come from edges of bogs and swampy areas. Usually in grassy hummocks, where the bulb is above the water but roots can head down to get into water. They are somewhat sensitive to excess Calcium, use rainwater as much as possible. If you use tap water, try to follow up with rain water the next day. If you use liquid fertilizer, use the one for acid loving trees and shrubs. Organic fertilizers should be no problem. Keep fertilizer solution dilute, one half or one quarter strength.
Sun, should have 3 to 8 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sun is best.
Leave outdoors until light frost. Then either unpot bulbs, pack in damp moss and refrigerate for winter in a plastic bag or put whole pot in the refrigerator. Replant, repot or set outside after danger of frost has past in spring. Hardy through zone 8, possibly into zone 7.
Things to do different. - most important. This orchid is thin and grassy, needs support when blooming. In order to get flower stems to stand up straight without unnatural props, stakes, bamboo skewers or whatever, you should plant a thin, not too aggressive sedge or grass in the pot with the orchid. The blades of grass will provide support for the orchid flower stems. The grass roots will help move water (requiring more water) which will keep the mix fresher. The grass will shade the leaves of the orchid a little, allowing to give the orchid more direct sun. They really do want sun. A larger pot with a mix of ferns and grasses would result in hardier growth of the orchid. Adding grasses or sedges also makes the planting a true kusamono. Kusamono means grass planting.
How to grow and things to do different next time.
Potting mix, mine worked well enough. blend of fine fir bark for seedling orchids, Kanuma, perlite, chopped long fiber sphagnum, a small portion of fine sand (play sand) top dress with a layer of sphagnum moss, then plant living ''crack in the sidewalk moss''. They want a mildly acidic, water retentive mix that breathes well, allowing good air penetration.
Water - these never want to dry out completely - in nature they come from edges of bogs and swampy areas. Usually in grassy hummocks, where the bulb is above the water but roots can head down to get into water. They are somewhat sensitive to excess Calcium, use rainwater as much as possible. If you use tap water, try to follow up with rain water the next day. If you use liquid fertilizer, use the one for acid loving trees and shrubs. Organic fertilizers should be no problem. Keep fertilizer solution dilute, one half or one quarter strength.
Sun, should have 3 to 8 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sun is best.
Leave outdoors until light frost. Then either unpot bulbs, pack in damp moss and refrigerate for winter in a plastic bag or put whole pot in the refrigerator. Replant, repot or set outside after danger of frost has past in spring. Hardy through zone 8, possibly into zone 7.
Things to do different. - most important. This orchid is thin and grassy, needs support when blooming. In order to get flower stems to stand up straight without unnatural props, stakes, bamboo skewers or whatever, you should plant a thin, not too aggressive sedge or grass in the pot with the orchid. The blades of grass will provide support for the orchid flower stems. The grass roots will help move water (requiring more water) which will keep the mix fresher. The grass will shade the leaves of the orchid a little, allowing to give the orchid more direct sun. They really do want sun. A larger pot with a mix of ferns and grasses would result in hardier growth of the orchid. Adding grasses or sedges also makes the planting a true kusamono. Kusamono means grass planting.
Shima
Omono
I read about a grower in Florida who said "no water in winter." To insure this he put them on the electrical box.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
- Messages
- 11,595
- Reaction score
- 24,228
- USDA Zone
- 5b
They do need to be slightly damp, not soggy, not really wet, just damp. And I have yet to get it just right. So far this was second attempt to get it right. Maybe next time I will get it right. I do bloom it's more tropical cousins reasonably well.
The two Habenarias below are from wet-dry monsoon areas of Thailand. They will drop their leaves after blooming and then want to be bone dry until the rain returns in our spring.
The red is Habenaria rhodocheila and the pink is Habenaria erichmichaelii. The rhodocheila is in an Chang Ching-wen pot.
Epimedium 'Flowers of Sulphur', Alpine Water Fern (Blechnum penna-marina) and Corsican mint. About 30cm tall. I put this together as a live demonstration at a public-facing show in a botanical gardens this weekend. The pot and plants were all bought on site, and the plant went out on the show tables immediately on completion. Quite fun!
wsteinhoff
Shohin
A wild sedum waking up for spring.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
I love these. They don't live long, but they are available in almost any parking lot crack, fence line, abandoned factory, all over the place. They're not even native to the US. They don't really respond to helm, but I'm happy if they bloom around Show time...
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
I don't know which cultivar this is, but it is a mini. They can be bonsaied the same way we do everything else: reduce the roots by half the length most anytime, and keep in a root-restricted pot, a few hours of eastern sun, and watered every day.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
Sedum multiceps, Joshua Tree Sedum. I bought some of this 20 years ago and have them as individuals and little forests. They are kind of hard to keep erect, but if you don't let the tops get too full and hence too heavy, you can do it.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
The standard "sedum used in bonsai" whatever that is, is another one that you start with one piece and are never without many, forever.
Starfox
Masterpiece
Got bored today and did this, they were all in one pot so needed separating.
Shima
Omono
Probably Florida air is slightly damp enough.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Great composition! Love the pot, stand, and plant. I am no good at accents, probably need to work on that.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Chojubai cutting in a little black & blue pot. Should be cool when it blooms.
Similar threads
