I am having a tough time deciding what to do with the long lead branch that sticks out way to the left side of the photo. I was considering either bending it down and turning into a semi-cascade, or maybe bending way upright and using it to develop a canopy. Any suggestions? I added a top down view of the tree as well in case that helps. Thanks!
What to do with long branch
- Thread starter keithl
- Start date
Mike Hennigan
Chumono
Cutting it off to make a smaller but more “powerful” tree is always an option.
Lazylightningny
Masterpiece
Fortune favors the bold.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
lop it off. If you do not have too many trees, wait and airlayer it off in spring.
bonsaichile
Omono
Air layer it for what? It is a straight, taperless branch that will never make a good bonsai. what's the point?
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Thats a great plan.
Do you see the powerful tree in that one side pic?
It gets goofy again from the top view but that tree is in there...just gotta tighten it in.
Them years'll do it!
Sorce
I think so. There are three candidates for new leads depending where I cut. The one almost straight up from the center of the trunk that is at a roughly 45 degree angle to the left in the picture, then the another about an inch to the left that goes straight up. Or could use the right side as the new lead. I think the plan is to get it out of the pot and either into the ground or a much bigger container in the Spring to help it grow, then decide exactly where to cut once things develop a bit more.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
I would wire the long branch up to make it easier to air layer in the spring. At the same time you could add some movement to the upper branches to create a more interesting tree after the air layer.
You could also consider doing the air layer at a bit of an angle to create more interest in the planting angle for the section that will be removed.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Make into Cascade. Thin remaining tree to send more energy to descending branch
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Saddler
Chumono
You could get two birds stoned at once. Use the branch to thicken the trunk while setting it up for an airlayer in a couple years. You could spend some time putting bends into it, choosing branches, etc. You would have a bonsai on a bonsai if you will.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Loads of reasons..
As I said: If you do not have too many trees. I think we tend to forget that people who are starting out may only have 2 or 3 trees and look at every tree bought as financial burdens.
Then, as a learning tool. Learning how to air layer is a usefull thing to do, as you will be able to grow better nebaris; Another trick in the bag, so to speak
Young whips like this can still be shaped as you like. Afterwards, you can plant the thing in the garden for 5 years and voila, you do have a thickers trunk. (Thick trunks start out as thin trunks..)
So yeah, lots of points. Sorry that I did not make this explicit before. I thought it was self-evident.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Keep in mind that this will make the whole trunk thicker. You might want to consider getting or or two branches lower down to grow out too. That will give you better taper in the trunk, which over the long run will make the whole plant better. But this is of course only if you want to grow this out a bit.
Saddler
Chumono
If
that first branch coming off the straight branch would be perfect to cut to, add some angle and grow it out for taper. If you are layering, you have a lot of possibilities. Or just cut it off because you can’t see any.
bonsaichile
Omono
Junipers are cheap. And the long, taperless section of that branch close to the trunk will always be bars, long and taperless. You cannot cut a juniper back like a maple to create the trunk, it just doesnt work that way.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
Creating branches lower on Juniper trunks is quite easy actually. It is true that you cannot use the exact same technique as maples but junipers are cutback to create more inner growth and trunk budding all the time. It is a common technique to compact older stock that has grown out.
Also they graft very easily. You should try these things you would be surprised at the response and the options it creates for improving material.
bonsaichile
Omono
Thanks for the clarification. I was under the impression you could not cut back to no foliage, though? Also, when would be the best time to cut back to obtain backbudding?
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Junipers are not that cheap. Good stock with decent movement and a one inch trunk easily goes for several hundreds of dollars here.
Cutting back junipers is actually not an issue at all. You just need to plant your tree a bit more than with deciduous.
You cut back to withing an area with foliage. But even a tree that has been grown out for a decade will have foliage near the trunk if the grower knows what he is doing.
You cut back when you get long runners.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
You cannot cut back to an area with no foliage, that is why the process is different from maples. The timing i prefer is spring after the first long extensions are present indicating strong vigorous growth and with sufficient growing time left in the season to establish new growth. Just as important as the timing, is the condition of the plant, for best results prepare the tree and improve its health before extensive work.
Cypress187
Masterpiece
You mean euro's
Also you have the best bonsai webshop in europe, bonsai.de! Nice quality for a low price.
