What Would You Do Differently? Another, "let's learn together," thread

[ShadyStump]

I agree. When I get more experience under my belt, maybe I can attempt some other things that need a little extra care during summer

I do have Norway maple seeds I went out of my way to collect. Could throw a handful in a flat and see what happens

Find your microclimates. Shadier, cooler, damper spots in your yard might be the trick to making maples work for you. That, and try some more native species. With some luck I might be able to get some Wasatch maple seeds this fall, also known as big tooth maple. Native to the Wasatch mountain range by the Colorado/Wyoming border. They handle the cold and hot very well, with small leaves and strong back budding. I'm also starting some Rocky Mountain maple seeds now, which would probably thrive even better, but not likely make great bonsai. Long internodes and big leaves.

 

[BeepBeepBonsaiSheep]

Find your microclimates. Shadier, cooler, damper spots in your yard might be the trick to making maples work for you. That, and try some more native species. With some luck I might be able to get some Wasatch maple seeds this fall, also known as big tooth maple. Native to the Wasatch mountain range by the Colorado/Wyoming border. They handle the cold and hot very well, with small leaves and strong back budding. I'm also starting some Rocky Mountain maple seeds now, which would probably thrive even better, but not likely make great bonsai. Long internodes and big leaves.

The side my bench sits on is about 12’ from the house wall. I could do a really small set up to keep some less heat tolerant material right against the wall. And the AC is right there too, so maybe some moving air it draws in? … Or heat it pushes out…

I’ll see what I can do. Maybe set up a really shaded part of my bench

I’d like to try a Utah juniper. I know they grow extremely slow but they can deal with the heat ok

Mondel Pine we got too and they can deal with extreme heat just fine. They’re from the Middle East originally

 

[ShadyStump]

The side my bench sits on is about 12’ from the house wall. I could do a really small set up to keep some less heat tolerant material right against the wall. And the AC is right there too, so maybe some moving air it draws in? … Or heat it pushes out…

I’ll see what I can do. Maybe set up a really shaded part of my bench

I’d like to try a Utah juniper. I know they grow extremely slow but they can deal with the heat ok

Mondel Pine we got too and they can deal with extreme heat just fine. They’re from the Middle East originally

Utahs are very similar to the one seed junipers around here. Hunt around and you can find some amazing yamadori. Start with the little crappy ones, though, until you learn how to keep them alive. Learned that the hard way killing WAY too many piñon pines.
Not familiar with the mondel pines. I'll have to look them up.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

It seems to me the majority of members here are in the northern hemisphere, and spring is on it's way there. Autumn always brings loads of questions about over wintering your trees, and I thought we might all benefit from sharing our experiences now that we've given it all a go.

So how did you do it this year, and what, if anything, will you change for next year.

Personally, I have all my cold hardy trees on my back porch which is covered but only enclosed on the north and west sides. The ones I could I slipped into cardboard boxes then filled with leaf mulch, while others were too big for the boxes I had. They were all set as close to the house as I could manage, then half way through the winter I decided to hang plastic around them like a coldframe.
Next winter I think I'll skip it all together for some and just set them directly on the ground next to the house uncovered or at best under a lean-to or something. Winters have been wetter recently, and I think the snow would do more to protect them from extreme temperatures better than my current setup, as well as give my conifers more light.

I’m new here but you guys will learn I’m long winded sorry . Canadian Ontario north of New York State zone 4a what I know of winter storage is learned the hard way dead trees . Cold hardy trees allowed on benches to get cold pots frozen solid or very close for the more sensitive concern is wind storage is insulated back room non heated non attached garage 15 by 8 no light I can add heat but don’t sometimes I open door to allow air exchange but never wind and.never above freezing goal is freeze them no light means no water needs even for conifers keep them froze as long as I can until it’s safe to bring them out this will work for trees that are not even hardy enough in this zone ( JBP and J maple things to avoid and or worry about freeze thaw very very bad wind very bad buried in snow snow in contact with tree especially buds and twigs freeze thaw cycle in the snow expand and contract bad fluctuation in temp in a small space ( cold frame that gets sunlight ) any sunlight with driven pot pests and disease in unfrozen earth ie heat in normally frozen area bottom line no light no need for water dry cold air around tree no moisture to expand and contract around upper part of tree tak precautions for rodents that eat bark and cambium Put them to sleep and don’t let them wake up in the middle of the night to take a leak I am fully aware that modern research states they will respond with more vigorous in spring with winter light even non conifers but it’s the lesser of evils all I have noticed is conifers are a little sluggish in early spring what I need is better winter tropical spot planning this year sealed high humid area grow lights and thinking of 2,other ideas one for sure large box 6 by 6 feet filled with oil dry ( turface) heat mats under pots buried in box goal is un frozen roots frozen tree for recent collected trees and air layers severed that fall there is evidence that roots will grow even with no light and yes I really really really want a green house but a good green house is big has air movement and is very temp stable things a small green house is not so therefore a small green house is a bad green house so you gain little may try the basement for less hardy trees my house is 100 years old and basement near the wall is cold but above freezing and yes I learned this the painfull way

 

[BeepBeepBonsaiSheep]

Utahs are very similar to the one seed junipers around here. Hunt around and you can find some amazing yamadori. Start with the little crappy ones, though, until you learn how to keep them alive. Learned that the hard way killing WAY too many piñon pines.
Not familiar with the mondel pines. I'll have to look them up.

Ooo, good idea. Maybe best to find something average so if I kill it, I don’t feel bad I toasted a wicked piece

Mondels are ok. Longer needles. May take some time to find one that’s not knobby as it grows a number of branches from one spot I can get them on sale for $9. Might grab a thinner one that could be bent up easily

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Step one notice the Japanese advanced the art of bonsai . Growing trees native to Japan . Anything is possible if you put enough work into it . But why beat your head against the wall . I think all people should embrace trees native to your area . I’m yet to here of a climate that don’t have interesting trees . Grow from seed collect young plants from the wild . Hunt and collect better wild trees as you develop your self . Up here biggest challenge and biggest reward is the cold . Need to protect trees but the harsh winter . Creates great wild trees . I gave no idea in the dry and heat . But I would be al about it . It’s a lot simpler to cut down the amount of sun then it is to create it . You can use water . Have you thought of using micro irrigation system and misters to create a micro climate . A shade structure some micro irrigation next you have a plant oasis . There has to. Be killer desert Yamadori . Just wants some water and tlc