J Maple Cuttings

[j evans]

I have been trying to get cuttings off of my oversized landscape JM to root. I have tried planting them in the ground, planting in a pot with course soil mixture, in a pot with course soil mixture and a plastic bag over them. All were wounded and treated with growth hormone. I could get almost all of them to leaf out but none to kick out any roots. I got a heat pad for Christmas but I 'm wondering if that is going to make enough difference. Also, I saw a video where a guy took his cuttings and wrapped them in a damp paper towel and put them in a big sealable plastic bag. Seems to me that they would mold or ?
Any ideas to maybe steer me toward some success? Thanks.

 

[Dav4]

I'd recommend using semi hardwood cuttings in mid spring, and you'll be better off adding a misting system or a humidity tent... and Japanese maples as a rule are not the easiest to root... and some of the cultivars are basically impossible.

 

[Eric Group]

Perlite
100% perlite.

Water more than you can possibly imagine they would need it. In the Spring I put mine in part shade within range of a garden sprinkler that hits them twice a day and I sometimes water a third time in between... in effect it is like a misting system I guess. We are pretty warm and humid here which bells zi am sure but I usually wind up with a pretty high success rate. JM, Trident Maple, Elm, Zelkova, Juniper... Even got a couple Chojubai and Korean Hornbeam to take... cuttings are easy if you set them (in shade), wet them and FORGET THEM.

 

[pweifan]

You got hornbeam to root from a cutting? That's impressive!

 

[j evans]

The soil of bark, potting soil and sand is well draining but stays nice and just damp. Will perlite do a better job?

 

[namnhi]

Cutting is a hit and miss game. Air layer should be much better results.

 

[Starfox]

Well this sounds like it will put a damper on my plan to take maple cuttings, I'll try none the less though.
Is it better to take them once they have leafed out?

 

[j evans]

The last batch I tried were taken from some trimming I did in late November. They leafed out but no roots. I am going to take some more this month before winter breaks. I think that these cuttings may have a bit more energy due to being dormant longer. Just a thought.

 

[0soyoung]

Is it better to take them once they have leafed out?

yes.

Dipping the cut end in rooting hormone (IBA/NAA) will kick start the formation of roots. The subsequent growth roots requires a supply of sugars (and natural IAA). In most all species an adequate supply is possible only if photosynthesis is happening - you need at least a leaf or two.

Of course, leaves transpire. With a layer, water continues to be supplied by the mother plant through the xylem. With a cutting there is no water source until roots have developed. So you need a humidity tent and/or misting to minimize the water lost via transpiration.

Cuttings are a race against time. Comparatively, layers are just a matter of patience.

 

[Starfox]

Excellent explanation, thanks.
That is what I normally do but have never tried deciduous cuttings so wasn't sure if you could take a dormant cutting. Guess it will have to wait a couple of months first.

 

[j evans]

For some reason I thought that taking cuttings while dormant was a good idea, then when budding out they then would start to kick out roots. Here is Mike the gardener doing hardwood cuttings http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2016/12/rooting-cuttings-in-december-and-january/

 

[Dav4]

For some reason I thought that taking cuttings while dormant was a good idea, then when budding out they then would start to kick out roots. Here is Mike the gardener doing hardwood cuttings http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2016/12/rooting-cuttings-in-december-and-january/

Are you keeping them outside? Hardwood cuttings taken in November through January shouldn't have already leafed out.

 

[j evans]

They were outside until the end of November going through cold weather then I brought them inside sitting in a North window, watered accordingly with a plastic bag over them. Leafed out nicely. Then.....................no roots or even a sign of a root.

 

[Dav4]

They were outside until the end of November then I brought them inside.

I think you might have taken them too early in the fall, but you should have left them outside either way.

 

[j evans]

I think I can still do that with the next batch. Weather does look any better for weeks. Thanks for the help.

 

[AlainK]

The first cuttings I made from plain A. palmatum were in late winter (early February). About 10 to 15% took, but since then I've had 0% success at this period of the year.

Those I tried in mid-June had a ùmuch better rate of success (I'd say 75%) but the quantity was too small to make statistics: air-layering is very easy and can be done on much bigger branches or trunks.

 

[petegreg]

The soil of bark, potting soil and sand is well draining but stays nice and just damp. Will perlite do a better job?

Perlite is inorganic and almost sterile (germless; free from all living or viable microorganisms).

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

They were outside until the end of November going through cold weather then I brought them inside sitting in a North window, watered accordingly with a plastic bag over them. Leafed out nicely. Then.....................no roots or even a sign of a root.

Hardwood cuttings, example, cuttings in November, for me if they take, will put out a couple leaves, then sit, rootless, not appearing to grow, the rest of the growing season. But if they don't dry up or die, just wait. Sometime between middle of summer and next spring they make roots. Second year they start growing like a normal well rooted cutting.

It is hit or miss. Try batches, some cuttings in early summer, May- June, some late summer, early September, and some dormant cuttings, after leaf drop. Give then time, if they are still alive, have a few leaves, they will eventually root. Two years is not common, but not unheard of for cuttings to root.

Winter requirements don't change for a cutting. I have a few pots of cuttings in with my trees where I store my hardies for winter. Cold, but not sub zero. 25 F to 40 F. Ginkgo was one of my batches of cuttings.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Best timing for maples will vary by cultivar, some will frustrate you entirely. That is why most maples are grafted. More predictable yeild if you are commercial.

 

[j evans]

Thanks for the help.
Jamie