SHOHIN CASCADE Kiyohime

MACH5 said:
Here is the tree as it looked today before and after. This kiyohime has now received it's first styling as a cascade. Although I was hoping to put in a smaller container this spring, I think I may leave it for now and let it keep developing in its current pot. I wired one small branch pointing up to eventually create an apex and kept some growth where the main branch meets the trunk, to make a small side branch from it. By around June/July, wires will be removed and branches will be set into their new positions.
Click to expand...
Sergio, is 6-7 months usually enough to bend a JM branch into a new position or it depends on other factors like the size?
A branch of my Deshojo had a wire for I guess 5 months and when I removed it, it went back halfway to the original position...
Congrats!
 
ajm55555 said:
Sergio, is 6-7 months usually enough to bend a JM branch into a new position or it depends on other factors like the size?
A branch of my Deshojo had a wire for I guess 5 months and when I removed it, it went back halfway to the original position...
Congrats!
Click to expand...


Yes, 6 to 8 months with Japanese maples should be plenty to set branches in place before it bites into the bark, but really depends on a few factors like thickness and vigor. I usually wire in late winter and by June/July branches are set, at least for the most part in my experience. There are some that need more time. If your tree or a particular branch is not growing much or actively, it can take longer for the wire to set it (branch) into place. With maples I let the wire bite in slightly. This is an indication that wire has probably done its job and definitely time to remove it before its too late. This can seemingly happen overnight!
 
MACH5 said:
This can seemingly happen overnight!
Click to expand...

Couple things Mach.

I'd love to see a set of time lapse photos set on a branch "setting".

@barrosinc !

I was looking for the maple you guys shot a while back.....

I saw a thing on Brain Games where they take a picture, and another from about 15degrees over, and when flipped back and forth it looks 3d.

I wonder if this couldn't help us view trees better?

Figured between your branch structures and Max' photos, you could make it happen.

Love lil casce!

Sorce
 
sorce said:
Couple things Mach.

I'd love to see a set of time lapse photos set on a branch "setting".

@barrosinc !

I was looking for the maple you guys shot a while back.....

I saw a thing on Brain Games where they take a picture, and another from about 15degrees over, and when flipped back and forth it looks 3d.

I wonder if this couldn't help us view trees better?

Figured between your branch structures and Max' photos, you could make it happen.

Love lil casce!

Sorce
Click to expand...
It looks very 3d while spinning.
http://www.barrosinc.com/sergio-cua...onsai-exhibition-finest-deciduous-360-bonsai/
 
Also Fred Truck shoots his trees in 3D but should be viewed with 3D glasses for the full effect. He can chime in and explain his process.

BTW I've been wanting to do another project like the one above with Max but during spring. We've discussed it. However it is difficult for me to do this since it will require my presence pretty much every day during certain phases. Otherwise the sequence of the leafing process will be very choppy. But certainly it would be very beautiful.
 
shoe.jpg

shoe2.jpg

c_cinderellashoe161200.jpg

If Gaudi will be the template, I took the opportunity to go outside the box. The tree evokes a feel very reminiscent of a ladies shoe. Designer.
A container shaped in this way, flowing down while the tree is planted roughly over the heel and flowing over/beyond where the tootsies would be could be attractive to me.
Doesn't have to be a shoe, but I think I'm gonna try it someday.
 
Djtommy said:
Thats really nice.
I would like it even more if it would start with bare branches, not full green, have slower tranitions and end up bare again,
yes it would take a lot more work.
Click to expand...


We wanted to do a summer to winter sequence. The transitions are difficult and would require many, many more shots. All possible if I were home 24/7.

I'd love to do a documentary following the life of a bonsai for an entire year. Perhaps one day.
 
LanceMac10 said:
View attachment 131605

View attachment 131606

View attachment 131607

If Gaudi will be the template, I took the opportunity to go outside the box. The tree evokes a feel very reminiscent of a ladies shoe. Designer.
A container shaped in this way, flowing down while the tree is planted roughly over the heel and flowing over/beyond where the tootsies would be could be attractive to me.
Doesn't have to be a shoe, but I think I'm gonna try it someday.
Click to expand...


Nice! The edges of the shoe on the second pic is roughly what I have in mind for the pot. The ladies shoe reference to the tree is wonderful, but for me it would give it too much specific context. I prefer to suggest rather than tell. :)
 
I can see your point. At times, I can be a bit of an "intellectual blunt-instrument"......
 
@MACH5, so Kiyohime are finicky I read. How can I train them from prebonsai? Cut back to branches? Is it safe enough to cut back to two nodes with buds?
 
thumblessprimate1 said:
@MACH5, so Kiyohime are finicky I read. How can I train them from prebonsai? Cut back to branches? Is it safe enough to cut back to two nodes with buds?
Click to expand...


T, to be honest no vast experience with Kiyohime on my end. With that said, my experience is that it can grow vigorously when happy but not quite the growth you'd see in a regular palmatum. Not sure about them being finicky? Please can you provide the source as I would like to know? I treat it much like any other maple and can cut back with no problems with fairly predictable back budding. Yes I think you can cut back to two nodes as well as do hard cut backs. Be aware that they are basally dominant, so something to keep in mind. So you will need to go easier on the apex to avoid potential die-back. Same with some other dwarf cultivars such as Kashima.
 
MACH5 said:
T, to be honest no vast experience with Kiyohime on my end. With that said, my experience is that it can grow vigorously when happy but not quite the growth you'd see in a regular palmatum. Not sure about them being finicky? Please can you provide the source as I would like to know? I treat it much like any other maple and can cut back with no problems with fairly predictable back budding. Yes I think you can cut back to two nodes as well as do hard cut backs. Be aware that they are basally dominant, so something to keep in mind. So you will need to go easier on the apex to avoid potential die-back. Same with some other dwarf cultivars such as Kashima.
Click to expand...
Sergio, my sentiments are only from some of the comments I've read on them, and seeing how some have killed theres from chops. I've been looking back on one of two of the Kiyohime threads. I haven't seen a solid reference as in a book or journal article. Maybe I need to look for a good book on Japanese maples that discusses Kiyohime. Your comments are helpful. Thanks, man!
 
This maple growing vigorously again this year. It was repotted into a smaller plastic pot earlier this year using straight akadama. In order to speed up the ramification process, a complete leaf defoliation was done. All wires that were put on last March were starting to bite in. They were removed and wired some of the new shoots to correct their direction and placement. Happy thus far with its progress. It is now beginning to look like something.

Here is how the maple looked this morning.








A bit over an hour later after being defoliated, trimmed back and wired.










A quick at-a-glance progress comparison between 2015 and now.

 
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