Chemical vs Organic.

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On a thread asking about when to start fertilizing after a repot it was posted that with chemical ferts to wait 2 weeks but with organics it is safe to start immediately. Why would that be?
 
According to what was said, the oil seed meal is only fermented and still has to
compost. So when the cakes are placed on the soil, it's some time before they
start to compost and deliver the NPK.
Correct professionals?
Good Day
Anthony
 
On a thread asking about when to start fertilizing after a repot it was posted that with chemical ferts to wait 2 weeks but with organics it is safe to start immediately. Why would that be?
I'm doing it all wrong!
Sometimes I don't even wait 2 hours to pit chemical fertilizer on.
It's a wonder I haven't killed every tree I have with that stuff.
 
Hey Mike,

Miracle Gro Orchid fertilizer is 30 .10.10 plus micros.
At 1/5 it is 6.2.2. and more or less the same as Oil Meal Seed.
Guess what we are testing next year.
Good Day
Anthony
 
Hey Mike,

Miracle Gro Orchid fertilizer is 30 .10.10 plus micros.
At 1/5 it is 6.2.2. and more or less the same as Oil Meal Seed.
Guess what we are testing next year.
Good Day
Anthony
Miracle grow??
Say it ain't so ,Anthony!
You and Khai already got the island thing down. Why experiment?
I already know. It's what you 2 guys do.
I hope it lives up to all of the hype.
And at 30 10 10 if I tripled it I would have 90 30 30.
 
I'm doing it all wrong!
Sometimes I don't even wait 2 hours to pit chemical fertilizer on.
It's a wonder I haven't killed every tree I have with that stuff.
I wait until the tree shows growth. Why waste fert? What I'm wondering is how the plant knows indifference between organic and non-organic sources of minerals in a solution.
 
I wait until the tree shows growth. Why waste fert? What I'm wondering is how the plant knows indifference between organic and non-organic sources of minerals in a solution.
If it's fertilizer day at repot time I don't skip anyone. I waste fertilizer all of the time.
You know the answer to your question. The trees don't know the difference.
 
I made that statement, so I'll explain my reasoning. I think we would all agree that repotting is stressful to plants, and we should avoid adding more stress. Additionally, plants take up fertilizer by osmosis. They can't chose when or what to take up. In the process of osmosis, chemical concentrations are balanced on both side of the osmotic membrane by taking up or letting out water. If you feed with a high concentration of chemical fertilizer, your plant is forced to let out water to take up the fertilizer, at a time when it has diminished capacity to absorb water. I think this would stress the plant.

On the other hand, organic fertilizers typically require microbial activity to first break down the fertilizer before a majority of it can be taken up by the plant. I did an experiment several year ago using both chemical and organic fertilizers, applying fertilizer at the time of repotting with one group of plants and waiting 1 month to begin fertilizing another group (all azalea cuttings from the same plant). I didn't see any noticeable signs of early fertilizing being detrimental or harmful. But I did see noticeable positive results in early fertilizing with organic ferts.
 
I have used a mix of both chemical and organic fertilizers for years. But in the last few years, I've switched to all organic ferts, and my plants have never been healthier, greener, fuller, more pest and disease resistant. I don't know why it's better, but if I had to guess, I would say it has to do with the promotion of microbial activity in the substrate, making it more like garden soil.

In northern climes, it may make no difference. But here the growing season is 9 months long and mid-summer is very stressful to plants.
 
Yeah me too. I don't think it is.
I understand that the process of making or growing organically is beneficial to the environment yet fail to understand how a plant fathoms the difference. Now I was wrong once in the past so sometimes I entertain the concept and wait to be enlightened.
 
In northern climes, it may make no difference.

There's differences for sure, none worth arguing IMO, not that you are, but if We do as a group, it is futile.

Results from both camps have long been in and the truth is...

There is more important stuff to figure out besides fertilizing.

I'm moving to 5-1-1 fish alone...
Every 2-3 days in spring.
Weekly thru hot summer to keep the soil "alive".
Every 2-3 days in fall or more if I have to use up a bottle.

If not chemical, it's the simplest cleanest way to go.

No Shit, No clogging, Great Smell, Attracts flies - attracts spiders, dog likes the smell but there is nothing to dig for,
Mix and go.

Iron chips and old pliers on the surface.

Epsom sprinkled in before growth cycles.

I may supplement with Schultz drops weekly to keep micros on point and to have fert for winter tropicals.

More important things to think about?

How about this conundrum.....

We wet juniper foliage to reduce transpiration in cuttings, transplants, etc....
(Note wireme presented article on NOT misting)

When we water then, when we want transpiration which is the driver of our trafiic n which creates backbuds...

Is not watering the foliage as well reducing the transpiration for at least the time it takes for that water to evaporate?

How much does this effect our growth and health?

How can we utilize it to our advantage?

Never thought watering the foliage may lead to root rot, but can a constantly misted tree transpire at all?

No Mas misting.
No Mas foliage feeding.

Sorce
 
There's differences for sure, none worth arguing IMO, not that you are, but if We do as a group, it is futile.

Results from both camps have long been in and the truth is...

There is more important stuff to figure out besides fertilizing.

I'm moving to 5-1-1 fish alone...
Every 2-3 days in spring.
Weekly thru hot summer to keep the soil "alive".
Every 2-3 days in fall or more if I have to use up a bottle.

If not chemical, it's the simplest cleanest way to go.

No Shit, No clogging, Great Smell, Attracts flies - attracts spiders, dog likes the smell but there is nothing to dig for,
Mix and go.

Iron chips and old pliers on the surface.

Epsom sprinkled in before growth cycles.

I may supplement with Schultz drops weekly to keep micros on point and to have fert for winter tropicals.

More important things to think about?

How about this conundrum.....

We wet juniper foliage to reduce transpiration in cuttings, transplants, etc....
(Note wireme presented article on NOT misting)

When we water then, when we want transpiration which is the driver of our trafiic n which creates backbuds...

Is not watering the foliage as well reducing the transpiration for at least the time it takes for that water to evaporate?

How much does this effect our growth and health?

How can we utilize it to our advantage?

Never thought watering the foliage may lead to root rot, but can a constantly misted tree transpire at all?

No Mas misting.
No Mas foliage feeding.

Sorce
You might want to ease up on the Red Bull a tad my friend.
 
Y
I understand that the process of making or growing organically is beneficial to the environment yet fail to understand how a plant fathoms the difference. Now I was wrong once in the past so sometimes I entertain the concept and wait to be enlightened.
generally speaking the plant is able to directly abosorb the cations available as chemical salts (n,p,k,ca,mg etc)whereas the organic nutrients must be broken down by microbial activity or composting to make the same cations available to be taken up by the plant...Basically if you are using chemical ferts you are directly feeding the plant. If you are using organics you are feeding your soil microbiome which in turn feeds your plants the cations broken down by microbial activity and are then able to be absorbed and utilized by the plant same as the chemical salts. Hope this helps clarify some of the basic differences in the two forms of fertilizers and how the plant uses them...
 
There's differences for sure, none worth arguing IMO, not that you are, but if We do as a group, it is futile.

Results from both camps have long been in and the truth is...

There is more important stuff to figure out besides fertilizing.

I'm moving to 5-1-1 fish alone...
Every 2-3 days in spring.
Weekly thru hot summer to keep the soil "alive".
Every 2-3 days in fall or more if I have to use up a bottle.

If not chemical, it's the simplest cleanest way to go.

No Shit, No clogging, Great Smell, Attracts flies - attracts spiders, dog likes the smell but there is nothing to dig for,
Mix and go.

Iron chips and old pliers on the surface.

Epsom sprinkled in before growth cycles.

I may supplement with Schultz drops weekly to keep micros on point and to have fert for winter tropicals.

More important things to think about?

How about this conundrum.....

We wet juniper foliage to reduce transpiration in cuttings, transplants, etc....
(Note wireme presented article on NOT misting)

When we water then, when we want transpiration which is the driver of our trafiic n which creates backbuds...

Is not watering the foliage as well reducing the transpiration for at least the time it takes for that water to evaporate?

How much does this effect our growth and health?

How can we utilize it to our advantage?

Never thought watering the foliage may lead to root rot, but can a constantly misted tree transpire at all?

No Mas misting.
No Mas foliage feeding.

Sorce

That misting thing I brought up...I'm not all that convinced. It was a thing I saw that I was hoping to hear some more opinion about that's all. Did seem to have some reason behind it. But I don't plan on changing anything myself. Misting collected trees has apparently worked well enough for me all these years. I water with a 2gpm misting head on a hose, everything gets wet/misted every time I water. I don't plan to change habits just yet.
 
Y

generally speaking the plant is able to directly abosorb the cations available as chemical salts (n,p,k,ca,mg etc)whereas the organic nutrients must be broken down by microbial activity or composting to make the same cations available to be taken up by the plant...Basically if you are using chemical ferts you are directly feeding the plant. If you are using organics you are feeding your soil microbiome which in turn feeds your plants the cations broken down by microbial activity and are then able to be absorbed and utilized by the plant same as the chemical salts. Hope this helps clarify some of the basic differences in the two forms of fertilizers and how the plant uses them...
So the plant absorbs nutrients in the same form?
 
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