Colandars, Pond Baskets, Grow Bags are often used in combination with growing in the ground. Easier root containment. Cutting the thicker escaping roots promote finer ramifications of the rootball and it tends to discourage tap roots.
But if you leave it out of the ground the colander does this automatically.
That is correct. However combining the two approaches can accomplish greater trunk growth at the same time. This is why the original appproach to using colander for pines was modified to putting a smaller colander in a larger colander after a while. The colander or pond basket in the ground works much the same way, allowing some roots to escape and retaining the rootball . The primary advantage to the ground placement is the stability of the growing environment, more so than just the colander or pond basket on the bench. I have found the growing season is extended in the ground and the trunks grow faster when the colander, pond basket, grow bag etc. Are placed in the ground. I keep the seedling in small pot then transfer to colander then colander in the ground or grow bed until desired size of trunk is attained. This is contrary to the old method of just growing the trunk first i realize but i am multi-tasking my approach and combining techniques. This allows me to develop root ball, take to the bench when and if desired, develop lower branching while switching escape branches and developing taper. My Nursery is small but i focus on JBP. Using this approach , The pines attain 3 inch trunk diameter in seven to eight years. Larger pines are possible in that time if you are not cutting the stems for radial roots as i do with all my seedlings. This sets back the initial growth pattern. But then this is just another example of combining techniques rather than just putting a seedling in the ground to grow the trunk, then work on branches, then work on foliage, then work on pads. Here is a picture showing the technique at work in a portion of my nursery. These are 18 month old JBP placed out in grow beds but retained in colandars. I will switch computers and post another picture of the same tree's at 36 months. Please keep in mind that I have automatic watering systems, a long growing season, full sun southern exposure and use lots of fertilizer. The seed is obtained from a grower in Japan as well as other sources.
So what are u using in your beds just planters soil cause that would be very expensive to put boots mix in that much beds
Frank, I thought you were a hinoki cypress guy!
My grow beds contain mostly pumice 80 % . The young pines also have coarse grit 1/4 " diameter plus a local product called sea soil. The japanese maples, Korean Hornbeams, Chojubai etc. Are in pure pumice. The colandars contain bonsai soil mix.
It is true that i have many tskumo cypress ( 30 or so)no hinoki, However, the rest of the story involves a few hundred other trees on 3 1/2 acres with a small greenhouse and workshop/teaching studio.
Ok let me give this a shot before he answers to see if I can get it right after all my studying. hehe!!! Ok 1st sacrifice should be toward what will eventually be the back of your plant so when cut the wound is not so noticeable. Then a needle pluck down to 6 to 8 pairs on the future leader/trunk and future branch should even out growth?????? I think u leave sacrifice alone by not plucking needles on it it should take off and grow faster. I think that is correct but IM going by what I have read and watched on youtube. Adair is this advice correct???? Im just trying to make sure Im understanding what Ive been reading
That’s pretty close. More:
That always helps create a radial spread. JBP can be tricky to “collect” when grown in the ground, because the feeder roots get away from the trunk pretty fast (3-4 years). Since they grow fast in general, you can still get pretty good growth in Anderson flats sitting on the ground while reducing the risk of loss associated with transitioning the tree from the ground to a pot.
