2010 BonsaiNut Trident Project
- Thread starter garywood
- Start date
fore
Omono
Glad you updated this thread Gary, gave me a chance to see a technique that Ive read much about, but not alot of pics. Very impressive nebari and trunk base.
If one wanted a larger tree Gary, what size tiles and how many holes/seedlings do you use?
If one wanted a larger tree Gary, what size tiles and how many holes/seedlings do you use?
painter
Mame
gary what zone are you in?
i gotta get on this trident band wagon.
or maybe amur?
anybody with amur pictures comparitable to these guys?
thanks
p
i gotta get on this trident band wagon.
or maybe amur?
anybody with amur pictures comparitable to these guys?
thanks
p
painter
Mame
are you doing root work now?
and to what extent?
thanks
painter
and to what extent?
thanks
painter
garywood
Chumono
@ Fore
I do two configurations with tiles, single tree and five trees. The size of the tile is 4" regardless of the intended size of he tree. The tile is only there to start the base in the right direction and without regular rootwork a few strong roots will become dominant. Think of it like the spokes of a wheel. the farther away from the base the wider the spaces. Everyone has their own appreciation of what a base should look like and this technique is at one end of the spectrum and basically doing nothing is at the other end.
@Painter
As far as zone, I don't know, I'm guessing Z7. Oregon, foothills of the Cascades and zone changes can occur in a few feet depending on elevation. Climate zones are a crude guide for growing trees. Gives you an idea of minimum winter temps but there are so many other variables for good growing that are just as important. I do rootwork in the fall but the trees are greenhouse protected with high humidity. Funny story, I worked this tree 11-8-12 and looked at the potting tag afterward and it was potted 11-8-10 with surface rootwork nov. last year
I do two configurations with tiles, single tree and five trees. The size of the tile is 4" regardless of the intended size of he tree. The tile is only there to start the base in the right direction and without regular rootwork a few strong roots will become dominant. Think of it like the spokes of a wheel. the farther away from the base the wider the spaces. Everyone has their own appreciation of what a base should look like and this technique is at one end of the spectrum and basically doing nothing is at the other end.
@Painter
As far as zone, I don't know, I'm guessing Z7. Oregon, foothills of the Cascades and zone changes can occur in a few feet depending on elevation. Climate zones are a crude guide for growing trees. Gives you an idea of minimum winter temps but there are so many other variables for good growing that are just as important. I do rootwork in the fall but the trees are greenhouse protected with high humidity. Funny story, I worked this tree 11-8-12 and looked at the potting tag afterward and it was potted 11-8-10 with surface rootwork nov. last year
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fore
Omono
Thanks Gary. A great thread on this technique!
garywood
Chumono
davetree
Omono
Really really nice. I would like to see a few of these for sale .....
Poink88
Imperial Masterpiece
I love that nebari... Nice!!!
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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Now THAT'S nebari!
bwaynef
Masterpiece
You mentioned that you prefer your technique (trees thru & over tiles) with root-work at proper times to planting on a dish and leaving the roots to grow.
How often do you root prune? In the first couple of years in the Rootmaker bags w/ small particle soil, are you pruning every year? (In the fall? If so, is there a reason for that other than you can get away with it at that time in the PNW?)
Also, you mention that you use rooted cuttings to plant through tiles. Is there additional vigor from the cuttings compared to seedlings?
My last question (for now): What soils do you use in the different stages of growth?
How often do you root prune? In the first couple of years in the Rootmaker bags w/ small particle soil, are you pruning every year? (In the fall? If so, is there a reason for that other than you can get away with it at that time in the PNW?)
Also, you mention that you use rooted cuttings to plant through tiles. Is there additional vigor from the cuttings compared to seedlings?
My last question (for now): What soils do you use in the different stages of growth?
Angled rooting
Hi all, hello Gary!
This is probably the most informative forum post about creating nebarious pre-bonsai from young plants, congratulations on your work!
I'm currently trying to sum things up and make a guide out of this forum post for the Greek Bonsai Community. Gary, I hope you don't mind if I use some of your pictures to illustrate it (always with clear reference to the source).
In return, I post a raw JPG I made with MSPaint to illustrate the process of angled rooting you describe on post #16.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world!
Kostas
View attachment 64915
Hi all, hello Gary!
This is probably the most informative forum post about creating nebarious pre-bonsai from young plants, congratulations on your work!
I'm currently trying to sum things up and make a guide out of this forum post for the Greek Bonsai Community. Gary, I hope you don't mind if I use some of your pictures to illustrate it (always with clear reference to the source).
In return, I post a raw JPG I made with MSPaint to illustrate the process of angled rooting you describe on post #16.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world!
Kostas
View attachment 64915
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Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
garywood
Chumono
Brian, I don’t think so. Chris would know.
