Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Al,
why-- absolutely raw ?
Good Day
Anthony
why-- absolutely raw ?
Good Day
Anthony
Some similar pic of roots in my component after 3 years with a tree,the pics are from a spring of 2013 thread about a repot. The thread also showed a version of partial bare root procedure on an old conifer prior to having seen Adair bring it up here as a boon technique, homeschoolers like me were somehow doing it too. I started using humid acid around 2005 before I ever saw you write of it as well (not saying you hadn't, I just hadn't seen). Just mentioning those things since you show such a high regard for independent thinking you know.Not actually the first time using bark as a component against akadama. Have tried it in the past and had great results. Just going to repot some more finished trees in the mix to see what that does. All other experiments have been with training of new stock.
These pictures made me think that the roots know something I don't know.
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Not actually the first time using bark as a component against akadama. Have tried it in the past and had great results. Just going to repot some more finished trees in the mix to see what that does. All other experiments have been with training of new stock.
These pictures made me think that the roots know something I don't know.
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Yeah, actually I always have added a wee bit of that kind of thing too, needle litter or forest floor hummus layer type stuff, more needly than leafy as I most have conifers so I used the stuff under them.Another option worth trying might be leaf mould. It will almost certainly add some fugal life to your soil.
If you're going to cut back, do it NOW. When the sap is falling. Don't wait until the end of winter or spring. That's when sap is rising.I already use a slight organic mix...curious what your out take will be using it.
As for me, being daring enough to maybe cut that maple I bought...back real hard. I know I can develop a nice little tree...or in time a sweet tree. Do I want to wait a year losing time to see how it does for me...or just do the deed and be done with it. Thinking, just do it already.
If you're going to cut back, do it NOW. When the sap is falling. Don't wait until the end of winter or spring. That's when sap is rising.
Maarten,
[ what does Tenta....... mean ? a mouthful, English is normally so short / brief - laughs nervously ]
K sat down and hand rolled x 8 mm clay balls, fired them and then started a Ficus p. experiment using his version of Leca, and added a tiny % of compost.
Then remembered the ClayArt pottery list, to ask for a faster way to produce the balls - gave us much amusement.
Coco-peat breaks down for us in about 2 months, faster if exposed to compost.
Using the Ball Bearing idea has helped a great deal, getting the 3 mm glass spheres, allowed us to really observe, drainage, air space, and how compost
affects the tree.
As Osoyoung reminded me, Hydroponics does the same with inorganic fertiliser.
BUT we work from Rodale's organic ideas.
Plus making compost is easy, and sifting is enjoyable -------- also we are really cheap ------- it's the Chinese and Scottish bloods -
Have a great Day / Year.
Anthony [ now featuring on another topic as Igor ]
* apologies toooooo jovial today.
You can cut it in spring. It'll drip some sap but that won't hurt it. Remember,they tap maples for sap and they don't have any ill effects from it.I can't cut it come spring
You can cut it in spring. It'll drip some sap but that won't hurt it. Remember,they tap maples for sap and they don't have any ill effects from it.
Choppy choppy. No fear!I already use a slight organic mix...curious what your out take will be using it.
As for me, being daring enough to maybe cut that maple I bought...back real hard. I know I can develop a nice little tree...or in time a sweet tree. Do I want to wait a year losing time to see how it does for me...or just do the deed and be done with it. Thinking, just do it already.
Instead of hydroponic, try aquaponics. Use the fish water for your trees. Its orgánic fertalizer you can use everyday or every watering. Aquaponics and wicking beds for trees are my experiment for now. So far, so good. The ap will be in flood and drain beds with gravel. My peppers roots convinced me that it needs to be tried with trees. There perfect, no tap root and a wide, shallow spread all the way around. Potting later has worked for spinach, strawberries, and peppers. This year we will see how ficus and others do with being watered all day but with forced drier time for the roots. Its like a turbo for plants. Time to see about trees. There well so far.Maarten,
[ what does Tenta....... mean ? a mouthful, English is normally so short / brief - laughs nervously ]
K sat down and hand rolled x 8 mm clay balls, fired them and then started a Ficus p. experiment using his version of Leca, and added a tiny % of compost.
Then remembered the ClayArt pottery list, to ask for a faster way to produce the balls - gave us much amusement.
Coco-peat breaks down for us in about 2 months, faster if exposed to compost.
Using the Ball Bearing idea has helped a great deal, getting the 3 mm glass spheres, allowed us to really observe, drainage, air space, and how compost
affects the tree.
As Osoyoung reminded me, Hydroponics does the same with inorganic fertiliser.
BUT we work from Rodale's organic ideas.
Plus making compost is easy, and sifting is enjoyable -------- also we are really cheap ------- it's the Chinese and Scottish bloods -
Have a great Day / Year.
Anthony [ now featuring on another topic as Igor ]
* apologies toooooo jovial today.
Ok, I know I'm not supposed to say, "you're wrong".I only have 1 amur but it back buds profusely. It can turn into a bush in no time.
I don't cut anything back in fall or winter for fear of die back from the cold.
Maybe I'm wrong but I feel better playing it safe.