Cut back on a JBP

[Adair M]

Yea I thought about the thickness issue. Then I saw that there was another branch that you could use for the next branch up as well. But I guess that would mean trying to redo all the branches in the same manner. Better left until it's way way too big

It's an old, old tree. Been a bonsai for a century. Kinda have to go with what's there.

 

[drew33998]

Absolutely. Not an overnight decision to just change out all the branches. Hell I would be afraid to cut the candles on it

 

[Adair M]

Absolutely. Not an overnight decision to just change out all the branches. Hell I would be afraid to cut the candles on it

Lol!!!

It actually is looking much much better. If you do the right thing at the right time, JBP responds very well.

 

[0soyoung]

Absolutely. Not an overnight decision to just change out all the branches. Hell I would be afraid to cut the candles on it

An opportunity to apply Ebihara's branch moving technique!!

Simply approach graft those stiff branches, each to a seedling, then cut them off and plug them back into trunk holes that will give them the 'proper' aged downward trajectory! Easy peasy

 

[Adair M]

An opportunity to apply Ebihara's branch moving technique!!

Simply approach graft those stiff branches, each to a seedling, then cut them off and plug them back into trunk holes that will give them the 'proper' aged downward trajectory! Easy peasy

Oso, that be some gooood wine you're drinkin' tonight!

 

[ValorG]

cool beans!

 

[drew33998]

An opportunity to apply Ebihara's branch moving technique!!

Simply approach graft those stiff branches, each to a seedling, then cut them off and plug them back into trunk holes that will give them the 'proper' aged downward trajectory! Easy peasy

Sure. Send it down here to me and I will have it done in a season.

 

[Nybonsai12]

Adair. What zone is this tree in and how are you judging when to decandle your pines?

 

[Adair M]

Adair. What zone is this tree in and how are you judging when to decandle your pines?

I have no clue what zone it's in! It's at Boon's in Hayward, CA, in the Bay Area. The Bay Area has many radically different micro climates, truely amazing!

But Hayward is generally mild to cool. Boon gets full sun, but the cool summer nights restricts the JBP growth. They grow much stronger at my house in North Georgia.

The "rule of thumb" is to allow 100 to 110 days for the new growth to grow and harden off before cold weather hit. So, find out your "first frost" date, then count backwards on the calander 100 days, and that's the last date you should decandle. I usually decandle a couple weeks before that date.

So, for me, I decandle in early to mid July. In Seattle, they start to decandle early to mid May!

Each person needs to figure out what works best for their environment.

 

[barrosinc]

I have no clue what zone it's in! It's at Boon's in Hayward, CA, in the Bay Area. The Bay Area has many radically different micro climates, truely amazing!

But Hayward is generally mild to cool. Boon gets full sun, but the cool summer nights restricts the JBP growth. They grow much stronger at my house in North Georgia.

The "rule of thumb" is to allow 100 to 110 days for the new growth to grow and harden off before cold weather hit. So, find out your "first frost" date, then count backwards on the calander 100 days, and that's the last date you should decandle. I usually decandle a couple weeks before that date.

So, for me, I decandle in early to mid July. In Seattle, they start to decandle early to mid May!

Each person needs to figure out what works best for their environment.

the shorter the season, the earlier you decandle? or the other way round? Is Seattle cold?

 

[Dav4]

the shorter the season, the earlier you decandle? or the other way round? Is Seattle cold?

Yes, colder climates with shorter growing seasons de-candle earlier then those with longer growing seasons.

 

[LanceMac10]

First expected frost here is predicted for Oct 3 so I'm right in the window. It might need it.

 

[Adair M]

It was intended as a back-handed compliment, Adair.

I don't like straight, flat branches, but what else can anyone do with such a tree at this point, I ask rhetorically. We usually must live with what we can make and cannot always get what we want (hmmm, that has a familiar ring to it ).

I'm working this one as a Formal Upright. It has its flaws, but it's rare to find perfect Formals. This one leans towards the front too much.

But, one of the major issues with this tree are the branch's thickness. The second branch, the lowest on the right is almost as thick as the trunk. There's really no fix short of grafting on a whole new set of branches and growing them out 20 years!

So, we try to hide the flaws as best we can.

So, here's the starting point:



Closer to the final image:



This picture was taken before decandling and cutting back, but it shows the tree "full".

The ideas is as follow: normally, I like pine pads to show a bit of the branches on the bottom of the pad, and all the foliage above. The branches are really too thick, so I want the foliage to obscure the view of some of the branches so you can't really see how thick they are.

Judy mentioned that she likes to have to foliage higher than the way I've styled this one. And that works with thinner branches.

I'm thinking that in a couple to 3 years I can get this one full enough that the flaws won't be as apparent.

Yeah... Just another cookie cutter tree!

 

[JudyB]

The branches are really too thick, so I want the foliage to obscure the view of some of the branches so you can't really see how thick they are.

Now that I understand what and why, it makes sense to me now. Although, I don't think of it as a flaw like you do - I would think of it as a feature. Just another viewpoint though, it's a great tree.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

That first right branch is the character of this tree.
If you're aiming for cookie cutter, I can see concealing it. But I think I'd remove the first left branch(es) and spotlight the right. Then you'd have an interesting bonsai.

 

[Adair M]

I'm not aiming for cookie cutter, just trying to make it a Formal Upright. (Which some people would say is cookie cutter...)

I doubt I'll be removing the bottom left branch. I did shorten it.

 

[iant]

I like your tree a lot. There aren't too many large pines with developed branches that get posted here as a new post. We don't get that every day. So... thanks Adair! I've been working on a few JBPs for about 5 yrs that MAY have developed trunks and branches in another 10-15 y. Don't hold your breath! I'm happy to see a nice set of pics with before and afters and descriptions of what you've done.
Thanks!
Ian

 

[Potawatomi13]

So, we try to hide the flaws as best we can.

Biggest flaw is whole tree. Hard to hide. Don't have to "aim" for cookie cutter already is. Boring cookie cutter too perfect tree. Why not leave with Boon for sale and get or grow something unique interesting and new?

 

[Adair M]

Biggest flaw is whole tree. Hard to hide. Don't have to "aim" for cookie cutter already is. Boring cookie cutter too perfect tree. Why not leave with Boon for sale and get or grow something unique interesting and new?

You have a problem with Formal Upright?

I like JBP. I have lots of different styles of JBP. Formals, Informals, Slants, Sumo, Exposed Root, Shohin, Cascade, etc.

Yes, I prefer traditional Japanese styling for JBP. You may consider it cookie cutter. It's also quite challenging.

I have an idea: please start a thread of your "non cookie cutter" pines! I'd love to see examples of your work!

 

[Don Blackmond]

Biggest flaw is whole tree. Hard to hide. Don't have to "aim" for cookie cutter already is. Boring cookie cutter too perfect tree. Why not leave with Boon for sale and get or grow something unique interesting and new?

Troll alert.