Dremel for wood carving and tools sharpening

[maroun.c]

is Dremel of good use for wood carving on smaller trees at least or do you need a more powerful tool? believe you can also use it to sharpen garden tools? anyone uses it for sharpening tools? which attachments do you need for sharpening tools?
Thanks.

 

[plant_dr]

A Dremel can be fine for carving smaller trees and fine detail work. I've used it before but I wouldn't say I'm an expert at carving or that I'm any good at it at all really. It's just the only option I had. Some people also use the long flexible shaft attatchment which gives you more room to work in tight areas. I'm sure you could use it for sharpening tools but don't use the same bit as you would for carving wood obviously.

For larger trees and removing bigger volumes of wood, they often use something like a Makita die grinder.

 

[Dav4]

I use a die grinder for removing LOTS of wood, but for detailed carving on my trees, I always reach for the dremel, which means I really use it most of the time.

 

[cbroad]

Dremel does make a tool sharpening kit that comes with 3 attachments (and guides). I have it somewhere but have never used it, I can dig it out later if you want pics. I also bought a carbon steel brush bit with the intentions of using to clean the surface of my tools, but again I have never used it.

The flexible shaft does really come in handy for detail work.

 

[leatherback]

I use a makita and a dremel. Makita with powerfull bits to set the general outline. Then dremel for the details. Keep in mind that as the tree ages the natural lines in the wood will crack. Any carving youdo will thereform have to follow the natural grain of the wood of it will look very odd when it ages.

 

[maroun.c]

I use a makita and a dremel. Makita with powerfull bits to set the general outline. Then dremel for the details. Keep in mind that as the tree ages the natural lines in the wood will crack. Any carving youdo will thereform have to follow the natural grain of the wood of it will look very odd when it ages.

interetsting point, any idea how many years it takes for cracks to appear typically, if it's just a few years would it be best to do the main carving following the grain lines and then waiting for cracks to appear instead of doing fine carving that might not align iwth natural grain? for trees without significant bark how can you determine grain direction?

 

[leatherback]

With my large olive it took about 3 weeks. My juniper took 2 years.
A lot depends on your local climate and how fresh the wood was when carved. Ald mature dry deadwood will "work" much less than fresh sappy wood.

You can determine the grain by looking at the wood. You can see fine lines. And yes, I have multiple carving sessions and find that I add details to the wood when it starts to crack.

Not the best carver though; Still very much learning to set the deadwood to my hands.

 

[maroun.c]

Thanks for the info... forgot I'll be looking at the internal grain while carving!
Guess will train on few pieces of wood before messing up couple of trees I plan to carve.

 

[BrianBay9]

If you want an old, cracked look immediately burn the carved wood with a small butane torch. Wire brush it, then lime-sulfur.

 

[maroun.c]

Will try that. Does it affect rest if the tree in anyway ?

 

[BrianBay9]

Will try that. Does it affect rest if the tree in anyway ?

Cover the foliage you want to keep with a wet towel. Remember heat rises, so make sure stuff above your burn site is covered.